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11-29-2011, 02:28 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Komoka Ontario
Posts: 2,680
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I never hear any noise from my Hensley.
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11-29-2011, 02:34 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDC
I never hear any noise from my Hensley.
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For $2000 I'll put up with a little groaning now and then
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11-29-2011, 02:36 PM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFugate
For $2000 I'll put up with a little groaning now and then
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My thoughts exactly.
__________________
2012 Signature 8285WS 2010 Ram 2500 w/Cummins
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11-29-2011, 02:52 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 755
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I use the Equalizer and do experience some noise at slower speeds. Only really noticeable while driving through the camp on the way to the campsite as I like to roll down the window. Nothing excessive but it happens. I will say it is a joy to use and makes the tow more enjoyable. Highly recommended.
__________________
2012 F-350 4x4 King Ranch Super Duty CC 6.7 Turbo Diesel 3.55 e-locker
2011 Palomino Puma 30KFBDS with Side Paw Kitchen and Bunkhouse
Equalizer E2 Hitch
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11-29-2011, 02:59 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: In a big child free home - except for me
Posts: 1,682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDC
I never hear any noise from my Hensley.
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The Hensley although never having a recorded upset was closer to 3500 for what I wanted.
I don't plan on doing pilons on the highway with my trailer and between the sway control on my 2011 Ecoboost and the Reese dual cam weight dist system for 591.00 delivered to my door I think that at 55 to 60 miles an hour (cause I'm in no big rush to get where I'm going safely) the Hensley was a bit over priced.
But their owners seem to love them!
__________________
TV 2018 Ford F250, hauling a 2018 KZ 331 TH 12 Sportster 5th wheel, packing a 2015 CF MOTO 800 U-Force SXS
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11-29-2011, 03:16 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Upstate (Albany Area) NY
Posts: 832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDC
I never hear any noise from my Hensley.
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Except for the whimpers from the depleted wallet!!!
__________________
Fire Instructor
2022 Coachmen Leprechaun 319MB
2022 Ford Ranger toad
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11-29-2011, 08:26 PM
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#27
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFugate View Post
For $2000 I'll put up with a little groaning now and then
My thoughts exactly.
x3!
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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11-30-2011, 06:51 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,260
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This was my set up.
I would like to bring one issue up and this is something you might want to think about.........Your reciever has two weight ratings, one rating is with out weight distribution and the other is with distribution. I called Reese about this years ago and the Engineer said that this was the first time anyone has ask this question, and the question was.....If I were to remove the spring bars on my hitch system and back the camper could this cause damage to the receiver and he said yes it could happen because now i would be on the low end of the weight rating of the receiver. It's one thing hooking up your hitch while parked but it is another thing towing or back up with out the spring bars....Just something to think about!
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11-30-2011, 09:07 AM
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#29
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 74
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The above picture brings up another point. If your trailer hitch is mounted on the bottom of the tongue, the square bars pictured are the preferred method. However, if your hitch is on top of the frame, a round bar system offers better clearances. The bars pictured in Post 14 above are what I'm talking about.
Edited to add: looked up a picture of a Flagstaff, and it has the hitch mounted on the bottom of the frame. So the bars pictured above would be fine. Equalizer uses the same type bar set uo.
__________________
2012 Signature 8285WS 2010 Ram 2500 w/Cummins
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11-30-2011, 09:31 AM
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#30
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 9,280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alageezer
T If your trailer hitch is mounted on the bottom of the tongue, the square bars pictured are the preferred method. However, if your hitch is on top of the frame, a round bar system offers better clearances.
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Excellent point. I did not know this when I got my Reese setup. My coupler is mounted to the top of the tongue, plus I have a 6" tongue frame. That caused the square spring bars to rub the yoke bolt during sharp turns. I now use a 1" raised ball to prevent the yoke bolt rub, the spring bars will still rub the yoke during sharp turns.
__________________
Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
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11-30-2011, 11:01 PM
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#31
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Just a member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Great White North
Posts: 921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alageezer
The above picture brings up another point. If your trailer hitch is mounted on the bottom of the tongue, the square bars pictured are the preferred method.
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Concur and assumes that a trunnion bar setup is available - they were on six-week back-order when we bought the TT and six weeks is dang near half the summer in this neck of the woods. The round bar setup has worked well but has distinct turn limitations due the method by which the bars are held in the ball mount.
Another unique aspect of these couplers depicted is that they're mounted upside down. The ball pocket and latch assy is cut out of what would normally be the upper side of the coupler and re-welded into what would normally be the bottom side of the coupler.
__________________
K&L + the Wild Bunch
TT: 2011 Rockwood 8293RKSS
TV: 2019 Dodge 3500 SRW Crew HO CTD
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