new flagstaff 8528RKWS

[OldCoot]

Best thing to do on the closer is to remove it before it tears the door or the side of the camper up. Neither anchor points are made of a material that will sustain the loads. We have the same camper and removed it within 2 hrs of getting it home. Still haven't bought the hold open Herk suggested yet. That is on the "To Do" list.

[crocus]

That door closer thing was probably NOT one of their better ideas.
Ours 2011 CKSS never had one.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by crocus

That door closer thing was probably NOT one of their better ideas.
Ours 2011 CKSS never had one.

X2, in fact, one of the dumber ones IMHO

[Paul J S]

Is'nt door is going to bang into the awning arm?? I liked how when you open the door with your hands full it would open on its own.

[OldCoot]

Yes, it will bang on the awning arm, but that can be minimized with a little caution and it can be locked with a latch. Far less harm to everything than tearing up the door or the side of the camper. We thought it was the "Cat's Meow" when we were looking at them on the lot. Didn't take long to discover the harm they can do.

[J_KHawthorne]

When we were looking for our first 5th wheel, we were very impressed with the overall quality, fit and finish of the Flagstaff/Rockwood lineup.

From what I hear, they also are great to tow!

[OldCoot]

Just did an experiment with the gas strut on the door as the DW subtly hinted this last weekend when the door banged into the awning arm that I needed to do something. I made an alum. plate that uses the original holes in the side and extends back far enough to allow mounting the original anchor approx 2-1/8" closer to the hinge, moved the anchor on the door toward the hinge 2-1/2" and made an new anchor that has the ball pivot out 1" as opposed to the original that was 2-1/8" and used 3/16" pop rivets to attach it to the door. Results? Door now swings out to within 1" of awning arm and when closing, when it gets within about 3" of being shut, it will help close itself. Now, to make a new bracket for the side of the trailer that is a little wider and is contoured around the door frame and paint it black to match the trim. Pop riveting the door anchor sure stiffens everything up and the added plate on the side spreads the load on the side. AND the main thing, DW likes it!!!!

When I get the new wider plate made, painted and installed, I will take some pictures.

[Paul J S]

I figured that one of you guys would come up with a better way.
For now on my door where the closer bracket attaches to the door frame I added a hard rubber glazing setting block (I am in the glass industry) to take up the space behind the bracket where door frame is uneven. I used 3M double sided tape (the kind used to hold mouldings on cars) to stick the block in place. Then reinstalled the bracket with double sided tape and added 2 more screws. The bracket is much more solid on the aluminum frame. The bracket that mounts to the fiberglass sidewall I left alone. It seems to be solid. I would like to see what your sidewall bracket looks like when your done. I was thinking on the same track as you in making a plate that is curved like the top of the door and paint it Black and use double sided tape and screws to attach it.

[OldCoot]

Can you take a picture of your door anchor? My door frame is/was not bent. After pop riveting the new anchor bracket, it is so much more solid than with the screws from the factory. I plugged the original holes with black silicone gasket maker. I just cut down some 3/16" large head rivets and painted them black and will install them and then silicone the holes in the rivets.

[Paul J S]

I will if I can figure out how to get them in a post. I will have my wife help me.

[OldCoot]

I got the new plate fitted, painted and installed. Hopefully it will hold up. If necessary, I can always drill thru the wall and put an alum plate on the inside to match the one on the outside.

We sure like the fact that the door now opens over 90 degrees and still misses the awning arm. Also like the fact that it helps close door as well as when opening it doesn't fly open in your face.

Don't know why Forest River didn't mount the strut like this from the factory. Someone just didn't think the design through I guess.

[Paul J S]

Can you add a pic of the top of the door??

[OldCoot]

Don't know if this is what you wanted, but I took them in the rain, so the light,etc is not the best.

[Mikemitchell]

It would seem that Forest River should be responsible for this defective design! When I bought my 2011 8628RKWS two years ago the bracket on the door was already pulling loose. So I flagged it and asked for it to be repaired before accepting delivery. I think all they did was out new screws in. Last year those had pulled somewhat, so I took it back and I'm not sure what they did, but the screws were tighter when I left. I'm not sure how many screws were there originally, but there are three now. I should say WERE three screws. Despite never letting the door open on its own, the top of my door is now destroyed and today the bracket pulled out completely - dragging the expanding wall anchors through the plastic and aluminum. I'm VERY disappointed with Forest River for the design and with their dealer for not repairing this properly. Ugh.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Mikemitchell

... the top of my door is now destroyed and today the bracket pulled out completely - dragging the expanding wall anchors through the plastic and aluminum...

Can you take some pictures and post them? I can send the pattern of what I did when I relocated the strut on mine. It opens much gentler, opens wider, doesn't hit the awning arm and doesn't seem to put as much load on anything, door or the side of the camper.

[wfmdfm]

Strange we have had ours for a year now with lots of use. I wish it did open more but we have not had any issues. With kids in and out I took a look after this post and cannot find it pulling away at all. I will keep an eye on it. I have 11 months remaining on the warentee and they have been great fixing anything that I have brought to them.
Wally

[Mikemitchell]

Yep. Here's the photos. As I mentioned earlier, I don't believe the dealer every properly fixed it from the original blue tape punch list. Now its broken badly.

[Paul J S]

I just finished 5th night of camping. My little repair is holding up good. Not the prettiest. I liked what dunnnc did to his better.
I did make a call to the factory last week about the closer on the door. He said that he did'nt know of a lot of problems with the closers on these doors. He was real nice but I did'nt believe him
The reason I did not take back to dealer is My repair is most likely better than what they would do anyways. Good luck on getting yours repaired.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Mikemitchell

Yep. Here's the photos. As I mentioned earlier, I don't believe the dealer every properly fixed it from the original blue tape punch list. Now its broken badly.

Is the top pic of the door and the bottom the anchor off the wall?

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by dunnnc

Don't know if this is what you wanted, but I took them in the rain, so the light,etc is not the best.

Well, after using our camper for the last 3+ weeks, the gas strut anchor on the camper wall started loosening, so I will now make a trip to Lowes and get some stainless steel machine screws & nuts, make an alum. backer plate and bolt thru to the inside of the camper. We really like the relocated anchors and the fact that the strut helps close the door as well as allowing it to open approx. 130° without hitting the awning arm.