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Old 04-30-2012, 01:15 PM   #21
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Best thing to do on the closer is to remove it before it tears the door or the side of the camper up. Neither anchor points are made of a material that will sustain the loads. We have the same camper and removed it within 2 hrs of getting it home. Still haven't bought the hold open Herk suggested yet. That is on the "To Do" list.
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:27 PM   #22
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That door closer thing was probably NOT one of their better ideas.
Ours 2011 CKSS never had one.
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:35 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crocus View Post
That door closer thing was probably NOT one of their better ideas.
Ours 2011 CKSS never had one.
X2, in fact, one of the dumber ones IMHO
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:01 PM   #24
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Is'nt door is going to bang into the awning arm?? I liked how when you open the door with your hands full it would open on its own.
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:07 PM   #25
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Yes, it will bang on the awning arm, but that can be minimized with a little caution and it can be locked with a latch. Far less harm to everything than tearing up the door or the side of the camper. We thought it was the "Cat's Meow" when we were looking at them on the lot. Didn't take long to discover the harm they can do.
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:12 PM   #26
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When we were looking for our first 5th wheel, we were very impressed with the overall quality, fit and finish of the Flagstaff/Rockwood lineup.

From what I hear, they also are great to tow!
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:42 PM   #27
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Just did an experiment with the gas strut on the door as the DW subtly hinted this last weekend when the door banged into the awning arm that I needed to do something. I made an alum. plate that uses the original holes in the side and extends back far enough to allow mounting the original anchor approx 2-1/8" closer to the hinge, moved the anchor on the door toward the hinge 2-1/2" and made an new anchor that has the ball pivot out 1" as opposed to the original that was 2-1/8" and used 3/16" pop rivets to attach it to the door. Results? Door now swings out to within 1" of awning arm and when closing, when it gets within about 3" of being shut, it will help close itself. Now, to make a new bracket for the side of the trailer that is a little wider and is contoured around the door frame and paint it black to match the trim. Pop riveting the door anchor sure stiffens everything up and the added plate on the side spreads the load on the side. AND the main thing, DW likes it!!!!

When I get the new wider plate made, painted and installed, I will take some pictures.
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:30 PM   #28
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I figured that one of you guys would come up with a better way.
For now on my door where the closer bracket attaches to the door frame I added a hard rubber glazing setting block (I am in the glass industry) to take up the space behind the bracket where door frame is uneven. I used 3M double sided tape (the kind used to hold mouldings on cars) to stick the block in place. Then reinstalled the bracket with double sided tape and added 2 more screws. The bracket is much more solid on the aluminum frame. The bracket that mounts to the fiberglass sidewall I left alone. It seems to be solid. I would like to see what your sidewall bracket looks like when your done. I was thinking on the same track as you in making a plate that is curved like the top of the door and paint it Black and use double sided tape and screws to attach it.
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:38 PM   #29
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Can you take a picture of your door anchor? My door frame is/was not bent. After pop riveting the new anchor bracket, it is so much more solid than with the screws from the factory. I plugged the original holes with black silicone gasket maker. I just cut down some 3/16" large head rivets and painted them black and will install them and then silicone the holes in the rivets.
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:36 PM   #30
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I will if I can figure out how to get them in a post. I will have my wife help me.
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