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Old 05-08-2018, 09:30 AM   #1
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No water pressure

Hello!!!
I just bought a 2018 flagstaff 8528BHOK
I started de-winterizing yesterday. I hooked up to city water and flushed the lines of all antifreeze and then disconnected city water, filled my fresh water tank and was going to sanitize the system. After filling the tank opening all taps and turning on the pump, I get no water pressure. The pump is running but nothing is coming out. What am I missing here... Im a total newbie
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Old 05-08-2018, 09:33 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by KRBJMPR View Post
Hello!!!
I just bought a 2018 flagstaff 8528BHOK
I started de-winterizing yesterday. I hooked up to city water and flushed the lines of all antifreeze and then disconnected city water, filled my fresh water tank and was going to sanitize the system. After filling the tank opening all taps and turning on the pump, I get no water pressure. The pump is running but nothing is coming out. What am I missing here... Im a total newbie
Whoever used the winterize port to pull the antifreeze from a bucket or the bottles of antifreeze probably forgot to switch it back to pull from the fresh water tank.
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Old 05-08-2018, 09:39 AM   #3
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It could be that the pump is sucking air on the suction side....the side that goes to the tank. Check the gaskets /seal to ensure it is okay. The other most likely reason is that you didnít switch the valve from the winterization position to the tank position. Do you have a connection for winterization? If you do there is likely two hoses on the suction side and there will be a valve to switch from antifreeze to water tank.
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Old 05-08-2018, 09:40 AM   #4
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Don't open all the taps. One at a time. I usually do the hot one 1st in kitchen because it's next to WH. Takes a couple minutes to fill WH. Providing the winterizing selector is in position to draw from tank.
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Old 05-08-2018, 09:45 AM   #5
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Welcome to the forum its a great place to get your questions answered. Like others have said insure the pump suction is shifted to FW and the WH valves un-bypassed. turn the pump on and let it run with the faucets closed until it shuts off. Then I like to start with the Hot faucet forest from the pump and crack it open and let all the air out. good luck
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Old 05-08-2018, 09:52 AM   #6
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Can anyone lead me in the direction of the valve to switch between winterize suction and tanks not sure what or where I am looking at this point I cant even find my pump....
SO MUCH TO LEARN!!!
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Old 05-08-2018, 10:00 AM   #7
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These details should've been covered in your PDI. You have to expose back of WH. Often a panel secured by a couple screws has to be removed in either a kitchen or bathroom cabinet. It maybe 2 or 3 valve style bypass. If it's in winterized position the handle on the valves will be in bypass position. Open to use is with the handles in line with the inlet and outlet tubes and if a 3 valve system, the valve in the bypass should be perpendicular to the tube
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Old 05-08-2018, 10:01 AM   #8
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Can anyone lead me in the direction of the valve to switch between winterize suction and tanks not sure what or where I am looking at this point I cant even find my pump....
SO MUCH TO LEARN!!!
Hopefully someone that has this model trailer can tell you, but honestly this is something the dealer should have gone over during the walk-through/PDI. With so much to know/learn, it's not uncommon to spend quite a bit of time going over everything. The trailer should have also come with owner's manuals that explain this, at least in general.

Listen for where the water pump sounds like it's located and look for an external storage door in the same area, it could be behind a fake panel/wall and is often times in the same area as the winterization port itself.

For the water heater, look for the outside panel and then see if there is a nearby storage door, if not then look inside in storage areas that would be behind the water area and check for a panel that looks like it's meant to be removed.

DO NOT TURN ON THE WATER HEATER IF IT'S EMPTY. That will ruin it.

If the dealer didn't go over all of this or if you chose to skip the walk-around/PDI then I would ask them to please do this with you. New owners shouldn't be expected to figure everything out on their own, that's how mistakes and improper procedures happen and cause damage or hurt people.
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Old 05-08-2018, 11:56 AM   #9
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Here's a generic plumbing schematic but might give you an indication of what to look for.
You are looking for the valve that selects being able to draw in antifreeze using the pump (winterize) or draw water from the fresh water tank. (normal use) In this drawing it is in the upper center and is usually located near the water pump unless you have a wet bay set-up then the lever to operate the valve is located there.
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Old 05-08-2018, 12:06 PM   #10
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So I got it figured out for the most part with a couple of hiccups along the way here... Turns out it was behind a full 6 foot panel in the front pass through that is tucked behind the water filter canister (cant believe they didnt make a small access door for this) so I had to remove the canister and take off the panel. I will be making an access door for this before it goes back on.

Next the water heater anode was leaking so I had to drain the tank and retape the anode threads. So next question is....Is the WH compartment usually sealed so when draining the tank through the anode inlet the water is coming out the front of the access panel rather then through the seam in the frame
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Old 05-08-2018, 12:16 PM   #11
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Can you post a photo of your water heater location?
Most are sealed to the outside of the body and removing the anode simply lets water run down the side of the R/V.

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Old 05-08-2018, 12:19 PM   #12
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You drain the water heater through the anode rod hole and open the pressure relief valve.

Do a search on you tube videos a lot of help there.


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Old 05-08-2018, 12:30 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Can you post a photo of your water heater location?
Most are sealed to the outside of the body and removing the anode simply lets water run down the side of the R/V.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oaklevel View Post
You drain the water heater through the anode rod hole and open the pressure relief valve.

Do a search on you tube videos a lot of help there.


Pretty sure their concern is whether or not the inner seam along the trim is sufficiently sealed to prevent the water that ends up trickling into that area from seeping into the wall or inside the trailer. I don't think they were asking HOW to drain it.
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Old 05-08-2018, 12:40 PM   #14
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Pretty sure their concern is whether or not the inner seam along the trim is sufficiently sealed to prevent the water that ends up trickling into that area from seeping into the wall or inside the trailer. I don't think they were asking HOW to drain it.
Agreed, hence my photo and question to the OP.
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Old 05-09-2018, 09:16 AM   #15
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My heater panel is in the typical spot but I noticed that the seal between the outside trim and the WH casing was poorly done and left the potential for water to leak into the camper. So I resealed with silicone. Still have a tiny dribble out of the anode even after redoing the teflon tape. How tight is too tight for these anodes??? I have read some horor stories that it shouldnt be too tight but at the same time it has to be tight enough not to leak...
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Old 05-09-2018, 10:14 AM   #16
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Something that is sometimes overlooked when replacing/installing the anode is cleaning the threads on the WH.
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Old 05-09-2018, 10:23 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KRBJMPR View Post
My heater panel is in the typical spot but I noticed that the seal between the outside trim and the WH casing was poorly done and left the potential for water to leak into the camper. So I resealed with silicone. Still have a tiny dribble out of the anode even after redoing the teflon tape. How tight is too tight for these anodes??? I have read some horor stories that it shouldnt be too tight but at the same time it has to be tight enough not to leak...
Don't let your camper get within 6 blocks of silicone. Just snug it up tight a stop. Remember you will need to get it out again. You are over thinking some of this.
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Old 05-09-2018, 10:25 AM   #18
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Don't let your camper get within 6 blocks of silicone. Just snug it up tight a stop. Remember you will need to get it out again. You are over thinking some of this.


They are siliconing the inner lip of the WH trim, not the anode rod.
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Old 05-09-2018, 10:28 AM   #19
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They are siliconing the inner lip of the WH trim, not the anode rod.
I very well aware of where he/she is putting the silicone.
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Old 05-09-2018, 01:14 PM   #20
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I very well aware of where he/she is putting the silicone.
Good, then maybe rather than saying "Don't let your RV get within 6 blocks of silicone" you could suggest something else to use as a sealant if they want to seal it, like non-leveling Dicor. I understand their concern, if the outside trim is potentially allowing some water to leak inside the wall and there is nothing actually sealing it other than compression then just "snug it up tight a stop" doesn't address their concern or describe why it DOESN'T need some sort of sealant.

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