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Old 09-19-2015, 06:52 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by rthomaslyons View Post
It could be the flexible duct has come disconnected from the furnace port or under the floor somewhere
On mine, the back panel which closes the plenum was supposed to be held closed a screw on eash side. However one side was open because the spring-steel nut had loosened and fallen off. The heated air was mostly just circulating back to the intake.

Also, one of the duct connections to the plenum was partially off. They are a sheet-metal bayonet style and the flex duct had enough twisting force to have almost disconnected it. I just took it apart and rotated the flex duct on the connector so that the twisting force was holding it closed instead of trying to open it.

You have to remove the carpeted plywood panel adjacent to the furnace in the basement storage to get to the furnace.

That, and dampered metal registers in the bathroom (mostly closed, although still gets hot enough so you can't stand on it) and outside the bedroom door (about half closed) has resulted in better, but still not great airflow to the living room.

I think the flex ducts back to the lower level are just too long (and small) for decent airflow. The upper level ducts are so short that the air takes the path of least resistance unless discouraged with a damper.
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:10 AM   #22
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Heat distribution seems to be a chronic problem with the Flagstaffs. Same problems with our 2014. Poor living room heat caused by ripped/torn duct. No bedroom heat as there is no heat register in there; bathroom register too hot to walk on. The new 2016 we saw at the Hershey show still has the same configuration of heat ducts!!!
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:49 AM   #23
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I have used magnetic sheets in my house, that you should be able to buy at your local HD or Lowes. I got mine at Canadian Tire. You cut them to size, and can cover them whole, or partial to force the airflow to the weaker vents. CHeap alternative to reconfiguring your ductwork. Plus they wont melt or get too hot to walk on.
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:13 AM   #24
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Hello. I had the duct melt at the furnace. I rerouted the splitter that feeds the basement and bedroom so the living room had a full connection. The hallway and bedroom are on the same branch. Also replaced the plastic section with metal and used metal duct tape, not the 100 mile hr tape everyone including Red Green thinks is duct tape. The back panel was full of holes on the furnace and I closed these up as well. works better but the registers in the Living Room really need a 5 inch duct to make up for the length and lack of airflow out of the furnance.
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:15 AM   #25
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I have used magnetic sheets in my house
Might have to replace the stock plastic registers with metal ones for that to work, but then why not just get ones with dampers?
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:16 AM   #26
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Not sure this will help, but I had a Jayco Eagle Superlite and lived in it for a Winter and had a similar problem. This trailer had a separate WC and the heat at that register was ridiculous. You couldn't be in the room with the heat running; also too hot in the bedroom; and like you, almost nothing getting to the living room via two floor ducts. I temporarily blocked off the WC outlet with cardboard and used a a fan to push the heat from the back to the front of the trailer, which was inconvenient and didnt' work well. What I did was to rearrange the location of the ducts on the plenum. My knowledge of HVAC is nil, but I know what worked. The ducts on one side of the plenum had much more air volume / velocity than the other side due to the effects of the bird-cage fan (IMO). So, I swapped which port on the plenum fed which duct. I also added another LR duct on the cabinet, but I thinking swapping ducts around would have been enough.
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Old 12-04-2015, 03:54 PM   #27
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We have not yet picked you our 8528RKWS get it in the spring. There is some good info here which we will probably need to use. Where do you buy the digital thermostat?
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Old 12-05-2015, 12:06 PM   #28
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Where do you buy the digital thermostat?
My replacement was found with an EBay search for 'RVP 8330-3862'. This is for the black one... the white is 8330-3362.
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Old 12-06-2015, 01:37 PM   #29
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I found one at WalMart for about $29.95, (Can.). It's a Honeywell model RTH221B. It's programmable, one program for the week. You can get a model for a little more that has more programmable events. This model was white, I was looking for black to match things but the price was right. This takes the guessing out what temp. the thermostat is set at, well worth changing. With this model you will only have 1 speed for the fan. I chose to have the fan run on high. You can add a switch to the thermostat but it makes the installation a little more complicated. I found on u-tube a good demo on how to install the unit. For the price I do not know why they are not standard in every trailer. Good luck with this, Cheers!
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Old 12-06-2015, 04:09 PM   #30
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Thanks guys for the info on the thermostat I will definitely be getting one.
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