Power Cord Problem

[Coops1]

I think if your going to use anything it should be Penetrox

[SpringerPop]

Originally Posted by Coops1

I think if your going to use anything it should be Penetrox

If you find it difficult to locate, I believe Home Depot sells the equivalent in the form of "Noalox" (NO ALuminum OXidation). Basically the same thing.

It's a semi-fluid zinc compound that is meant to be used to prevent aluminum conductors from oxidizing-over to help maintain low-impedance connections.

Not seen too often, as aluminum wiring is not used much any more.

Pop

[Herk7769]

Why they don't some kind of grease on the push/twist bulbs is beyond me.
All my outside bulbs are solidly rusted into their sockets now.

[lindy]

As an added note I alway try to ensure that I turn off ALL the breakers inside the trl too. This will also prevent a power surge into the trl when you turn on the pole breaker. Then I turn them all off before unpluging from the pole. I had to have the fridge board replaced while on vacation when I turned things on when I arrived at a campground. I'd forgot to turn the fridge off before leaving and believe this is why the board fried. So turn everything off before walking out of camper before unplugging, and then reverse it when plugging in. After a while it will become part of the pack-up/open-up procedure.

[Timex]

Is this what I need?

Shop IDEAL 4-Oz. Tube Noalox Anti-Oxidant at Lowes.com=

Where and what do you put it on. Male/female end and how much?

[Great Horned Owl]

Originally Posted by DDC

'Quote'
""I have seen this and have come to this conclusion. How many times have many plugs been put into a receptacle? Many. Your cord/plug isn't the issue. It is how good the contact is between your plug and their receptacle. A loose fit here makes heat and depending on the amps how hot it will get. I now have a sacrifice. I very short cable I can and have replaced the plug on, saving my cable from destruction. This is between me and their power.""

But why would the surge protector not pick up on this if the contacts are not good the resistance should be high and that should cause the voltage to drop if I am remembering correctly how this works.

I think it really is contact resistance. While drawing 15 amps, a resistance of only 0.2 ohm would turn the plug into a 45 watt heater (15 x 15 x 0.2). With no way to dissipate the heat, it will get very hot.

The resulting voltage drop of 3 volts (15 x 0.2) would probably not be noticed.

If the blades of the plug are not too far gone, try polishing the up with some fine steel wool.

Joel

[Coops1]

I like this description of penetrox and think it would help over the dielectic but I think applying anything to a loose connection is just a bandaid fix. There has to be a better cord out there than the ones supplied.

PENETROX™ oxide‑inhibiting compounds produce low initial contact resistance, seal out air and moisture, prevent oxidation or corrosion, exhibit superior weathering characteristics, are usable over wide temperature ranges, and provide a high conductivity "gastight" joint. All PENETROX™ compounds contain homogeneously suspended metal particles. The suspended metal particles assist in penetrating thin oxide films, act as electrical "bridges" between conductor strands, aid in gripping the conductor, improve electrical conductivity and enhance the integrity of the connection. The specially formulated PENETROX™ compounds are for use with compression and bolted connectors providing an improved service life for both copper and aluminum connections. Additionally, the non‑toxic compounds are an excellent lubricant for threaded applications reducing galling and seizing.

[SpringerPop]

Originally Posted by Timex

Is this what I need?

Shop IDEAL 4-Oz. Tube Noalox Anti-Oxidant at Lowes.com=

Where and what do you put it on. Male/female end and how much?

That's the stuff.

After first brightening the male connector blades (pins) with fine sandpaper, a light film of it on the surfaces will reduce contact resistance.

There's no telling what the receptacle end's contacts look like, but you've at least done YOUR part.

Pop

[bob213]

I believe DF5.4 is correct. I should have said "conductive" grease NOT di-electric grease. The definition of di-electric would prove my first post to be incorrect. Sorry!
Bob

[Great Horned Owl]

You need to be more specific when referring to conductive grease. The thermally conductive grease that is used to couple components to heat sinks is deliberately not very electrically conductive. You want the latter, not the former.

Joel

[Timex]

Thanks Pop!

Had it in my hand yesterday at Lowes and got to wondering if it was what I needed. Got shellshocked over which multimeter to buy. I could spend as much as I wanted or as little. Almost bought one that had 2 extra gizmos and a carrying case for $26. That voice in my head kept saying, "You get what you pay for". Walked out empty handed. Be back tomorrow with a friend who is an electrician.

[SpringerPop]

Originally Posted by Timex

Be back tomorrow with a friend who is an electrician.

Have your friend just give you three or four CC's of his supply (in a syringe without needle if you have one). For your needs, it might just be a lifetime supply! If/when you buy that bottle at Lowes, you WILL have a lifetime supply!

A little of this stuff goes a long, long way!

BTW, it also helps to make your tail and running light sockets water-resistant, but use it sparingly.

Pop

[B47]

Originally Posted by Timex

Is this what I need?

Shop IDEAL 4-Oz. Tube Noalox Anti-Oxidant at Lowes.com=

Where and what do you put it on. Male/female end and how much?

Are you sure this is what you need?

It says in part - "... Promotes food ground continuity."

[Coops1]

Originally Posted by B47

Are you sure this is what you need?

It says in part - "... Promotes food ground continuity."

This product is made with copper & aluminum in mind, there are others that are made with silver that may be better suited for this use but I would guess this one easier to find. I think a connection that is loose or worn out and creates a lot of heat these products will dry out and become less effective.

In the end you may want to look for a better cord like one from Hubble http://www.hubbell-wiring.com/marine/

[SpringerPop]

Originally Posted by Coops1

I think a connection that is loose or worn out and creates a lot of heat these products will dry out and become less effective.

Dry out? No, that isn't going to happen. Those of us that use this stuff already know that.

Though you are correct that silver paste is more conductive, it also comes with the risk of using too much and creating an electrical short.

The primary purpose of Penetrox and Noalox is to keep ALREADY CLEAN, oxide-free, conductors (especially aluminum) from re-oxidizing, thereby maintaining good conductivity.

Pop

[backin15]

When I unhooked today it was very hard to discinnect the power cord from the trailer. When I finally did I discovered a bit of a meltdown


I looked it up on Marinco's website to order a replacement and discovered they have a 5 year warranty. I'll see if they will stand behind it.

[Coops1]

Originally Posted by SpringerPop

Dry out? No, that isn't going to happen. Those of us that use this stuff already know that.

Though you are correct that silver paste is more conductive, it also comes with the risk of using too much and creating an electrical short.

The primary purpose of Penetrox and Noalox is to keep ALREADY CLEAN, oxide-free, conductors (especially aluminum) from re-oxidizing, thereby maintaining good conductivity.

Pop

I agree with you here, it also helps to prevent electrolysis.

But it's not going to prevent what happened to backin15 or cure a loose connection.

[Timex]

So what actually happened to Backin15? He is apparently within his 5 year warranty. I guess it only takes 1 bad plug!

[backin15]

It looks to me like the connection arced due to a poor connection. It was a hot weekend and we were using the AC a lot and I had the water heater on electric but it should handle a lot more current than that without overheating. It was so hot I couldn't touch it. As far as I can remeber there was no corrosion or signs of distress on the connections before. There is a little corrosion on the ground lug though but the lugs that burned are copper and the other is silver.

[Herk7769]

Did you see the corrosion on the ground in the lower photo!
Were the hot and neutral in the same condition before they were burned clean?

No wonder the cord was hot!

Backin, those photos made the "Herkbrary,"
Not always a good thing; but thank you none the less.