Power Cord Problem

[Timex]

Let me preface my dilemna by saying I have been a camper for 17 of my adult years along with all my childhood years.

I have a recently purchased Progressive Industries PT30C surge protector that shows how many volts is incoming, Htz, how many amps I am using and if there are any power problems coming through the outlet.

My previous trailer had a problem with the 30amp power cord getting hot at the plug. Matter of fact, I had an electrician replace the plug end at least twice. Hot enough to melt the plug in my opinion is too hot! I never(that I'm aware of) go over the 30amps. If I were, wouldn't a breaker trip on the pedestal or at the very least in the trailer?

Now my 2012 VLite is beginning to show the symptoms. This weekend I plugged in with only the 15,000 BTU AC and of course the converter running. The surge protector showed that 16 amps were being used. In the high 90's and high humidity the AC ran for 3-4 hours before it kicked off to catch it's breath. After about 6 hours I noticed it was hot on each end of the cord. Even the surge protector was hot, I guess from the male end that plugs into it.
The power cord is the original(yellow) that came with the unit. The cord has lots of numbers and such on the side of it but none say how heavy the gauge. I was wondering, would a heavier gauge power cord solve my problem or do I have somethingelse going on? How else do you plug your power cord in and it not get hot?

Somebody help!!

[TURBS]

Heat is caused by resistence.
Or overload.

Same surge protector for both units?

If so id send it in to PI. To checked.

[Timex]

The surge protector is a week old. Didn't have one for the previous trailer. I had the problem beginning even before the surge protect. Seems to show signs when AC runs for long periods. AC cools fine. I try to limit the amps especially when high amp pulling items are running. I don't think the problem is the surge protect since it was happening b4 it came into the family. Do they make a heavier gauge 30 amp cord? Would that help?

[MIKE44460]

I have seen this and have come to this conclusion. How many times have many plugs been put into a receptacle? Many. Your cord/plug isn't the issue. It is how good the contact is between your plug and their receptacle. A loose fit here makes heat and depending on the amps how hot it will get. I now have a sacrifice. I very short cable I can and have replaced the plug on, saving my cable from destruction. This is between me and their power.

[DDC]

'Quote'
""I have seen this and have come to this conclusion. How many times have many plugs been put into a receptacle? Many. Your cord/plug isn't the issue. It is how good the contact is between your plug and their receptacle. A loose fit here makes heat and depending on the amps how hot it will get. I now have a sacrifice. I very short cable I can and have replaced the plug on, saving my cable from destruction. This is between me and their power.""

But why would the surge protector not pick up on this if the contacts are not good the resistance should be high and that should cause the voltage to drop if I am remembering correctly how this works.

[Timex]

Of course I didn't sit there and watch the display on the surge protector the whole time. When I did check, it would read 119-121 volts, 60 htz, 13-16 amps being used, 0 errors. This weekend I was plugged into the outlet in my trailer building. I'm the only person to plug into this outlet since I built the building 7 years ago. And in no way has that plug been used as one would at an RV site.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Timex

Of course I didn't sit there and watch the display on the surge protector the whole time. When I did check, it would read 119-121 volts, 60 htz, 13-16 amps being used, 0 errors. This weekend I was plugged into the outlet in my trailer building. I'm the only person to plug into this outlet since I built the building 7 years ago. And in no way has that plug been used as one would at an RV site.

It almost seems to me that the power cord is to light.

[myredracer]

My 2 cents: I'm also tending to think that it is a problem with the campground 30 amp receptacle. You have to think of how many times it has been used and how long it has been exposed to the elements. High usage will mean that the contact pressure will deteriorate over time. Just because the pedestals have a cover over them, it doesn't mean they aren't susceptible to moisture. You might even notice a sloppy feel to your plug when you push it in.

It's not going to take much resistance between your plug and the cg recept., when you are drawing full load, to cause a heat buildup. If you had a volt or two of loss at the plug at 30 amps, that can be a lot of heat in a confined space. The voltage drop is not going to be enough for the surge protector to pick up in that case.

One way of checking for this would be to plug your cord into the pedestal and measure the voltage in your camper before you have anything turned on. Then turn on as much as you can (A/C, microwave, etc.) to load the cable up to 30 amps and see if the voltage drops.

I think one idea might be to make up a short 2' or so 30 amp to 30 amp extension cord so that is only the extension that plugs into the pedestal, thus saving potential damage to your cord.

[Timex]

I see what you are saying. As I stated before, the female end that connects to the trailer is also getting hot. I made sure that the plug was snugged up good too. What do you do if you get to a rv site where the recepticle is old or boogered up?

[myredracer]

Okay,so you have a detachable cordset. If it is yellow, is it a Marinco one? Or a Conntek? The reason I ask is that I recently installed a Marinco 30 amp inlet and cord. I have to say that I am not very impressed with the fit of the Marinco female connector to the 30 amp inlet. I bought a complete Marinco cordset so it has a factory molded connector. The factory cordset also has the 1/8 turn ring. I find that the female connector fit to the male inlet is really sloppy. It feels like the only wy it will work is by the ring holding the connector in place. The factory inlet and connector have stainless steel components since these are really made for marine use (except the pedestal end is changed of course). The locking connector also doesn't lock much at all as you would expect any locking recept./connector to.

Stainless steel is not a very good conductor compared to copper (or brass). Stainless is used in marine applications because of the corrosive environment. Companies like Marinco are not doing RVers a favor by using modified marine components. I tried to get tech. info. from Marinco but they were hopeless. Their website has no tech./engineering info.

Interestingly, I also bought a Marinco 30 amp female connector only so that I could use the old cord as a spare. I noticed that the contact pressure seems much higher and it fits better on to the inlet. Doesn't make sense why they would be a difference.

Without seeing what you have, I am guessing you may also be having a similar problem with the female end of the cord (ie., high contact resistance). And it might be aggravated by what I note below.

I have noticed with our trailer that when I plug the cord in, even with nothing turned on, there is a loud zapping sound. Sounds like I am plugging in a cable with a live 100 amp load. The only thing on would be the converter. The technolgy of RV converters isn't my thing, but I have to wonder if something called harmonics and power factor might be causing a problem? (Don't want to get into something quite technical here.) Maybe someone here can add something to this as it relates to RV converters? Maybe some convertors are just a lot better for harmonics.

[MotocrossCamper]

I can't state this for fact, just what I found when researching my inverter installation, it was pretty common to see statements that read "when using anything other then braided copper, you better not be using more then a 5 foot piece!"

If there is any truth to that I could see a cheaper cord getting hot and melting.

[Timex]

Redracer, you got me to wondering what I had, so I went out and wrote down all the numbers on the cord.

CONNTEK D (UL) STW 3x5.26mm2 (10 AWG) 105 degree C 600V FT 2 WELL SHIN VW-1 FOR RECREATIONAL VEHICLE USE 30 AMPERES

On the female end that plugs into the trailer: WELL SHIN G WS-113-2 NEMA LG-30R E115330.

I have no idea what all this info means. All I know is that this is the cord that came with my trailer.

Inside the flip cap on the trailer it says to turn off the power to your boat before plugging into shore power. I DIDN'T KNOW THIS WAS A TRAILER BOAT!!!

[Rod Johnson]

Originally Posted by Timex

Inside the flip cap on the trailer it says to turn off the power to your boat before plugging into shore power. I DIDN'T KNOW THIS WAS A TRAILER BOAT!!!

Lets push it into a lake and see if it floats

Or not...

But, I'd tend to agree with these guys regarding the poor fit of the connectors and the use of stainless steel.

Are the contacts showing any signs of arcing? I also get a pop when plugging mine in. I think its the capacitors in the converter getting charged up?

Would it be worth it to put 50A receptacles on the trailer and building and use a 50A cord? Seems like overkill to do all that when you've just got a problem with subpar connectors.

[lindy]

For what it's worth the MAIN reason that the pedestal recepticals are so loose is that people for some reason don't take the time to ensure that the pedestal circuit breaker is TURNED OFF prior to plugging in and then are getting the loud zapping sound like MYREDRACER described when he plugs in. Each time this is done a little of the contacts are burned and scortched, thus leaving a poorer connection for the next person, so ensure that the pedistal breaker, and ALL the breakers, etc in your camper are OFF prior to connecting to the pedestal.

[myredracer]

lindy, that's a very good point you make. It would be a good practice then, to make sure the pedestal breaker is turned off every time when you plug the cord in and pull it out. And it seems like it would be wise to inspect the cord ends regularly for corrosion, pitting, dirt, etc.

Makes me wonder, how many people just yank on the cord or plug instead of withdrawing it in a straight line? That will surely hasten the demise of pedestal receptacles.

When I eventually install a 30 amp receptacle in our carport where we park our trailer, I think I will also install a motor rated disconnect switch so the recept. is off when plugging it in and pulling it out.

Timex, you have a common Conntek cord. Same as the one on ours. Not sure about your female connector. "Well Shin" is an offshore brand?? But what isn't offshore these days? The Nema number is just the standard designation for the 30 amp twist-lock configuration. I have no direct experience with the Conntek connectors & inlets. Conntek probably uses stainless steel too because they also sell to the marine sector. If you find your female connector is on the loose side, you *could* always replace it. Interestingly, I found a complete new Marinco cordset on ebay for only a few dollars more than the cost of just the 30 amp female connector.

Happy boating.....

[Coops1]

This has to be a wide spread problem with all trailers but you don't hear of them causing fire... Knock on wood. I also doubt many people check for heat, butt why should they? They're approved for the purpose they are used for. The problem is that after manufactures have approval for a product they seek ways to make them as cheap as possible and not needing to re-approve them.

[bob213]

I had a plug melt. Since then, I make a regular practice of using emery cloth to clean all my blades and plugs on the male ends until they shine. Then I coat all the blades and the female couterparts with di-electric grease. It seems to really help with the heat problem. I turn off the breaker before I plug in or unplug, even at home.

[Timex]

Please forgive me for I have sinned:

Yes, I have not always turned my breaker off when plugging in.
Yes, I do hear a pop/crack when I plug in when the breaker is not off.
Yes, I do push the plug straight in and I do pull it straight out, maybe having to give it a little wiggle.
Yes, until only recently realized that the female end is a twist on-lock.

I promise:
I will always turn my pedastal breaker off before plugging in and before unplugging.
I will use a little dielectric grease on the pins to help with overheating.
I will seek advice on the proper way to connect the female end to the trailer receptacle.

Now I feel better!

Have ordered a new power cord from CW and should be getting it next week. Am going today to buy a multimeter and learn the correct way to use it. I plan on comparing the readings of the new cord to the original cord. Any tips on the correct way to twist the female end of the cord to the trailer receiver? I've just been pushing it on and tightening the plastic ring until snug. The trailer pins look to be stainless steel. The male end of the cord has some (don't know a better word for it) corrosion. I'm sure that's from the overheating. Shined it up with some fine sandpaper.

Thanks for all your feedback. In my other hobby, feedback is a bad thing!

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by bob213

I had a plug melt. Since then, I make a regular practice of using emery cloth to clean all my blades and plugs on the male ends until they shine. Then I coat all the blades and the female couterparts with di-electric grease. It seems to really help with the heat problem. I turn off the breaker before I plug in or unplug, even at home.

Good for you! I do this as well and wish everyone did to.
There would be a lot less fried air conditioner and converter questions.

Over and over and over again; the same thing. Plugging in with a high load on the camper will spike your voltage (with that spark) sure as shootin' Yes, a 300 dollar surge suppressor will (might?) save your butt, but it might also cook your surge suppressor.

Then you go to your DW or DH and say, "Who forgot to turn off the AC when we closed up?" Who ever plugs in "hot" will know. That big fat zap will be your first clue.

[DF5.4]

Originally Posted by Timex

I will use a little dielectric grease on the pins to help with overheating.

Dielectric grease is an insulator. I use it on high voltage cables in x-ray equipment. I wouldn't use it on the blades of the power cord.

If you had a problem with current arcing between the blades then you could put some on the plug but not on the blades.