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Old 11-30-2010, 07:31 AM   #11
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Difference

Hello

What is the difference between the 3 V nose models from FR. I'm ready to purchase the WJ3065 as soon as my TH sells.

Thanks Dennis
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Old 11-30-2010, 10:22 AM   #12
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Dennis, there are many V nosed units built by F.R. out there. The Windjammer line by Rockwood, the V-lite line by Flagstaff, and the V-cross line, available in many different sizes and configurations. I believe all are still being built in 2011. The V front campers have been very successful sellers. Randy
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Old 12-01-2010, 08:10 PM   #13
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Re: lbrjet - Tongue Weight

Now I'm concerned about the tongue weight of the 30WFKSS with my F150. Is the published 965 lb. weight going to be too much for my 1/2 ton truck? Is a 3/4 ton called for here? Will a ProPride hitch help?
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Old 12-01-2010, 08:28 PM   #14
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Only you can answer that question (TW too much for truck). You have the available data (your truck's GAWR / GVWR / payload rating / receiver maximum rating). Do your homework and make an informed decision.
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Old 12-01-2010, 08:59 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by pkravec View Post
I just purchased a 2009 rockwood wind jammer.. v nose... love the roomy space... It comes with a sub wolfer that you have to open a cuboard door to use.. .
Uhhh, SUB woofers do not need to have a door opened to work correctly. SUB actually means SUBsonic, which means it operates at a frequency where you feel it rather than listen to it as you would do with a standard woofer and tweeter. So, keep that door closed, as it was intended. (if you look I am sure you will see where the factory actually screwed the door shut so it would not open without taking out the screws, on mine they used another hinge to lock it down)

There are a few things the "younger generation" does know about, believe it or not....
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Old 12-01-2010, 11:36 PM   #16
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Take a look at the Windjammer 3065 .....we love it and pull it with our 2010 F-150... but any V-nose with the lower hitch wieght will be good !! That extra space...walk in closet is BIG !! Oh and the Pro-pride hitch will not help you with the hitch wieght problem !! Nice hitch though !!
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Old 12-02-2010, 08:44 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by TNTraveler View Post
Now I'm concerned about the tongue weight of the 30WFKSS with my F150. Is the published 965 lb. weight going to be too much for my 1/2 ton truck? Is a 3/4 ton called for here? Will a ProPride hitch help?
The hitch weight might be a concern. The floor-plan looks like the heavy storage will probably be in the front where the kitchen is, although your exterior storage is in the back, which should counter the front weight some.

My dry hitch weight "grew" about 100 lbs from the number listed in the brochure. The battery and full propane tanks add up.

You say you have the maximum towing package, but that has a lot to do with the cab/bed configuration, engine, and final drive ratio. Check out this site to see what your actual tow rating is: https://www.fleet.ford.com/showroom/...2010/F-150.pdf

Some 2010 F150s are rated to tow up to 11,300 lbs. Surely, Ford would put a hitch on the truck to equal that, but you need to be sure. Check the sticker on the hitch. If it reads something like " 5000/500 lbs." (maximum weight carrying trailer weight/maximum weight carrying tongue weight), and the 2nd set of figures indicating a weight distributing of 12000/1200 lbs, you might be OK. Anything lighter that that, and that would be a concern. You will probably have to go with 1200 lb bars for the WDH.......I don't think it wise to go higher than that with a 1/2 ton pickup.

The listed tongue weight and trailer weight shows a ratio of 15.5% for this trailer. That is a little heavy for the tongue, so in this case trying to keep the weight towards the back of the trailer might be advantageous, being careful to not get the ratio below about 12%. I also have a relatively high tongue weight, and try to keep my tongue weight ratio around 13.5% by loading towards the back.
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:22 AM   #18
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Remember also that you can beef up the rear of that F 150, by changing the springs, or at least adding helper springs to the existing leaf packs, as I did on my Dodge. Also, you can add better shocks, or even air ride suspension, as some folks on here have. Personally, for what you are doing, I wouldn't go that extreme. Also, you can add LT rated tires- that made the biggest difference of all on my Dodge. The beginning of the tire number must be "LT", instead of "P". Anything P rated, even so called truck and SUV tires are not even close. Make sure you have a weight distributing hitch- such as the Reese dual cam or Equal-i-zer brand. These type hitches will help take away the sagging effect associated with a heavy tongue weight. And, last but not least is the rear end gearing. It really needs to be around a 3:92/4:10 ballpark figure- with 17" tires, you could get away with 3:73, possibly, but the newer the truck, they keep putting larger diameter tires on them, thereby hindering their pulling abilities, especially with the "came with it" rear ends. Good Luck, and just be aware that you can pull it with your truck, but you will probably need to incorporate at least some of these mods later on, as needed. Randy
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Old 12-02-2010, 07:35 PM   #19
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Tongue Weight

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnguy View Post
The hitch weight might be a concern. The floor-plan looks like the heavy storage will probably be in the front where the kitchen is, although your exterior storage is in the back, which should counter the front weight some.

My dry hitch weight "grew" about 100 lbs from the number listed in the brochure. The battery and full propane tanks add up.

You say you have the maximum towing package, but that has a lot to do with the cab/bed configuration, engine, and final drive ratio. Check out this site to see what your actual tow rating is: https://www.fleet.ford.com/showroom/...2010/F-150.pdf

Some 2010 F150s are rated to tow up to 11,300 lbs. Surely, Ford would put a hitch on the truck to equal that, but you need to be sure. Check the sticker on the hitch. If it reads something like " 5000/500 lbs." (maximum weight carrying trailer weight/maximum weight carrying tongue weight), and the 2nd set of figures indicating a weight distributing of 12000/1200 lbs, you might be OK. Anything lighter that that, and that would be a concern. You will probably have to go with 1200 lb bars for the WDH.......I don't think it wise to go higher than that with a 1/2 ton pickup.

The listed tongue weight and trailer weight shows a ratio of 15.5% for this trailer. That is a little heavy for the tongue, so in this case trying to keep the weight towards the back of the trailer might be advantageous, being careful to not get the ratio below about 12%. I also have a relatively high tongue weight, and try to keep my tongue weight ratio around 13.5% by loading towards the back.
The sticker on the bottom of the hitch shows 11,500/1150 on the second set of figures. My '10 model F150 Crewcab 4X4 has 3.73 rear gearing. It also has 20" wheels although the tires only have the "P" rating. I have read that more tongue weight helps with sway, but I don't want too heavy a load for the truck either. I plan on towing the trailer a few thousand miles and don't want any setup that will make the trip a handful. We really liked this floorplan, but will reconsider if this trailer doesn't carry the right "balance".
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Old 12-02-2010, 08:42 PM   #20
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TN. An 1150 lb receiver is good. Now what are these numbers?
rear GAWR / GVWR / payload rating
You will find them on the sticker on the drivers side door frame.

As others have said 'P' rated are not made for towing; they are made to give your truck a nice smooth ride. They are car tires, not truck tires. Truely don't understand why Ford puts them on a truck with MAX tow package. The 20 inch rims aren't going to help any, but they should be OK. They will certainly hinder your trucks towing performance a bit.
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