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Old 06-15-2015, 04:52 PM   #11
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My DH bolted a hitch receiver on the frame of our KZ and we bought a cargo tray for it. It was a used camper so voiding the warranty was not an issue. It worked just fine. We have since traded the camper for a new Roo 21BD that has a front deck built on.

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Old 06-16-2015, 01:04 PM   #12
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With all the diseased wood around and bans on bringing in wood from outside the region, why would you want to haul wood. Buy the wood at the campsite. Also FR will void you chassis warranty if you attach anything to your rear bumper.

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Old 06-16-2015, 06:16 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by BusyRetirees View Post
With all the diseased wood around and bans on bringing in wood from outside the region, why would you want to haul wood. Buy the wood at the campsite. Also FR will void you chassis warranty if you attach anything to your rear bumper.
I have to agree with this. I've stopped bringing my own wood after seeing the devestation that the bugs are doing to our forests.
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Old 06-16-2015, 06:36 PM   #14
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You can always put your wood in a plastic bin or two. Store the bin in the shower or the back of the truck. Adhere to the distance restrictions and burn all the wood. You be fine and the forests will be at no greater risk. The march of the emerald ash borer is inevitable. If we are going beyond a 50 mile radius we usually buy the kiln dried stuff at the grocery stores. (Bugs don't like the heat too much.) Whenever we try buying locally the choices seem to be green pine or green maple.
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Old 06-16-2015, 07:43 PM   #15
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Rear Bumper Cargo Rack

Has anyone tried this product?
I have this EXTRA SUPPORT MOUNT installed on my Shamrock 183 bumper. I have not only a bumper carrier rack but also a bike rack mounted on the bumper. Yes I ignored the bumper warning sticker, so no need to remind me the bumper cannot handle the load.

My camper came with a bumper mount spare (the dealer ignored the warning sticker too!), which I removed and carry in my TV, and I replaced that with an even lighter load, spaced evenly left and right nearer the weld points of the bumper to the frame. I then added the 4square mounts that you mention. Make sure you have good large size drill bits to make it thru the frame. I C-clamped the bracket into position, then used the holes in the bracket as guides when drilling the frame. I feel they can only help and not harm the strength of the bumper.

I carry my leveling boards and two folded camp rug mats in the aluminum cargo basket. These most often get dirty, wet or sandy and I did not want to put them in the trailer or TV. The carrier is made of aluminum so is light weight and I don't load it with firewood or anything heavy. The bike rack is on the right side of the bumper and it is not a lever action Swagman-type with bikes hanging by their top frames bouncing with every bump in the road. I custom made out of aluminum square tube, a rack that supports the wheels of my bike and is with-in 4 inches of being above the bumper. It does not hang out over the rear end very far so lever action is almost non-existent as is the bounce so common with other carriers. Both of these carriers are attached using two of these...

Curt RV Bumper 2" Trailer Hitch Receiver Curt Specialty Trailer Hitches E-100

I know there are some on this board that will ridicule me for doing this, but I have thought out the bumper loading and am confident, so far, that the bumper can handle MY loads. My trailer is less than 20 feet long, so the up/down bounce on the ends are not as severe as a longer trailer... THINK teeter-totter. I do check my racks at every stop, which is usually every 2 hours and more often then that if I have been driving on bumpy roads. I have not seen any bumper weld fatigue in about 4,500 miles of travel so far in 13 months of ownership.

If you do add a carrier, think about getting the light weight aluminum carriers (Harbor Freight) and instead of centering the carrier push it to one side or the other where the bumper frame connections have the most strength. I also pushed the mounting tube as close to the bumper as possible and drilled a new hole into the mounting tube to keep lever action to a minimum. And do NOT over load the carrier, which is really asking for trouble.

If you are one of the ones that do not think this should be done, then pass me on the interstate please and stay out of harm's way to the rear of my Shamrock.

Finally, I have given up on firewood because of the insects, generally poor quality available at campgrounds, and the high cost. Instead I spent about $80 on a portable propane-fired firepit similar to this.


I bought mine at Sams about 3 years ago. It serves me well when I want to roast a weenie or burger over an open fire. I have a camp cooking basket that will hold steaks, chops, burgers or dogs and even shrimp. Something like this: Rome's Original Basket Broiler (9" x 12"/Chrome): Kitchen & Dining

I know many of the FL State campgrounds sell firewood as a fund-raiser. I support that and will pay for a bundle but I leave it in the rack for someone else to purchase and burn. I have gotten out of the habit of having a fire after having been offended a number of times by a neighboring stinky unattended fire that blows into my campground space and I have to put up with the ashes and smell from someone else's fire.

I hope this long reply helps the OP out and gives other campers that have asked about adding carrier's to the back of their camper some food for thought before dismissing the idea or going ahead and adding one.

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Old 06-17-2015, 07:49 AM   #16
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Rear Bumper Cargo Rack

Thank you so much for that info. I've been considering the bumper supports in order relocate about 150 pounds of stuff from the pass through storage to lighten the tongue weight. Even at more than 1000 pounds under gross weight, my tongue weight is at 16.5% of actual weight with 10 gal of fresh water (1/3 full).
Mount-n-lock claims their supports increase the load bearing capacity of the bumper to 400 pounds. I'm considering using about half of that capacity.
I'm aware of the warranty warning. There's only 2 months remains on the 12 month warrant anyway.
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I would not have considered mounting anything to my bumper after reading these forums if not for this sticker.

Click image for larger version

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Apparently, Coachman did test the bumper up to 135 pounds.

I'll be the guy in the right hand lane with the cruise set at 65 mph.

Edited to correct typos
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Old 06-17-2015, 08:06 AM   #17
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can you have too much tongue weight?
I know I had to add AirLift air bags to my TV to accommodate the nearly 500# I have on the tow bar, but I have an extra-long Dodge Maxi-van 3500 that would normally squat with anything that heavy in the rear...
instead of shifting weight as you want to do, why not increase your TV capacity to carry the weight... I think 10-15% tongue weight is a minimum not a maximum... IMHO

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Old 06-17-2015, 08:07 AM   #18
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It's not just the bumper and/or mounts that are a concern, but the frame construction itself back there.

Also keep in mind.. you're kind of talking apples and oranges. A roo or micro lite frame is not designed to handle the weights that a 5er could. While it may work for some doesn't mean it will work for everyone.
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Old 06-17-2015, 09:10 AM   #19
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Since we are on this it a no go to add this to my 5er as well?
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Old 06-17-2015, 09:27 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by waing1 View Post
Since we are on this it a no go to add this to my 5er as well?

That choice is up to you. All we ask is that you be aware that any time you change the forces applied to a structure, this applies additional stress and therefore premature wear. So take the appropriate precautions.

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