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Old 09-08-2014, 06:19 AM   #21
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We have the 8528BHWS 5th wheel. The breakers always blow when running ac and micro or ac and hair dryer. And this has held true on all our previous campers. I always use a separate cord outside for my griddle and of course the ever necessary ice maker. What I tried on our recent trip was I picked up an adapter to take my 30 amp cord into a 50 amp receptacle. We did not blow any breakers but the ac really wasn't working too hard as it was not your typical August temps.
Not sure if that's the right thing to do or not, but it did seem to work.
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Old 09-08-2014, 07:12 AM   #22
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Wayne....lots of RV parks power points have 50 & 30 amp plug ins...at the same location there should be 2 110 volt outlets. Use these for "extra' plug ins.
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Old 09-08-2014, 01:42 PM   #23
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Wayne....lots of RV parks power points have 50 & 30 amp plug ins...at the same location there should be 2 110 volt outlets. Use these for "extra' plug ins.
Thanks Bob. Actually I was aware of the 50A + 30A + 1 or 2 15A outlets in the pedestal.

My issue was that no matter if I were plugged into the 50A or the 30A with the main RV (fat) cord these two appliances would more often than not throw the breaker. I got the confirmation from you all that the current draw will often do that to most trailers in our range and that my trailer is not somehow "special" in that way.

Confirmed Solution - while nuking just turn the AC compressor off (fan can be left on) and all will be good.

After reading your reply (and checking to see if there was another "Wayne" you were replying to) I checked the previous page of this thread and saw where I said that I would revert on the WH on gas issue but I see I did not.

Well the DSI/FLT never did illuminate (indicating that the WH burner failed to light) so I am none the wiser. Will have to test onetonford's explanation next time I go camping - hope I remember, or maybe someone else can test for us ...
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Old 09-08-2014, 04:04 PM   #24
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Have the same Microwave / AC tripping issues on ours (30Amp)

If you use the 50A pedestal outlet on a 30 AMP trailer with an adapter are you not actually only having a 25 AMP breaker at the campground pedestal.... The 50Amp is two 110V legs @ 25Amps each correct?? My terminology may not be exactly correct.


On our 2013 the gas light (red indicator) stays on when the gas is on and in use and off when the pilot light is not lit.

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Old 09-08-2014, 04:15 PM   #25
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Have the same Microwave / AC tripping issues on ours (30Amp)

If you use the 50A pedestal outlet on a 30 AMP trailer with an adapter are you not actually only having a 25 AMP breaker at the campground pedestal.... The 50Amp is two 110V legs @ 25Amps each correct?? My terminology may not be exactly correct.


On our 2013 the gas light (red indicator) stays on when the gas is on and in use and off when the pilot light is not lit.

Well, that is not correct. If you use a "pigtail" on a 50 amp service socket, you will only get one "leg" of the two 50 amp legs available. However your camper is limited to 30 amps and you still can not draw more than 30 amps without blowing the camper's main 30 amp breaker.

FYI - on a 50 amp service, each leg is capable of delivering 50 amps alternating so that the 50 amp rated neutral can handle the power returning from each leg.

Depending on your air conditioner's start up amperage draw (and any other power needs you are using - like the converter providing 12 volt DC - the TV or phone charger), you may not have enough power available to fire your microwave's magnetron without tripping the 30 amp breaker.

Not sure what you are referring to about the "gas light."

Are you talking about the red "fault" or "reset" light next to the gas "ON" switch for the water heater? That light should ONLY come on when the thermostat is calling for heat and the flame is not lit. Once it lights, the control panel should turn it off. If it stays on you have a "fault" meaning the tank is cold and the fire did not light after 3 attempts.
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Old 09-08-2014, 05:42 PM   #26
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Well, that is not correct. If you use a "pigtail" on a 50 amp service socket, you will only get one "leg" of the two 50 amp legs available. However your camper is limited to 30 amps and you still can not draw more than 30 amps without blowing the camper's main 30 amp breaker.

FYI - on a 50 amp service, each leg is capable of delivering 50 amps alternating so that the 50 amp rated neutral can handle the power returning from each leg.

Depending on your air conditioner's start up amperage draw (and any other power needs you are using - like the converter providing 12 volt DC - the TV or phone charger), you may not have enough power available to fire your microwave's magnetron without tripping the 30 amp breaker.

Not sure what you are referring to about the "gas light."

Are you talking about the red "fault" or "reset" light next to the gas "ON" switch for the water heater? That light should ONLY come on when the thermostat is calling for heat and the flame is not lit. Once it lights, the control panel should turn it off. If it stays on you have a "fault" meaning the tank is cold and the fire did not light after 3 attempts.
Thanks, always wondered about using the 50A outlet if you would have just 25A breaker being you are using just one side.

Our light does not go out when the water heater is working on this unit why I do not know. When the water heater works as it should & lights, but the red "reset light" never goes out. Unless the pilot is out It is backwards for some reason.

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Old 09-08-2014, 08:23 PM   #27
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Thanks, always wondered about using the 50A outlet if you would have just 25A breaker being you are using just one side.

Our light does not go out when the water heater is working on this unit why I do not know. When the water heater works as it should & lights, but the red "reset light" never goes out. Unless the pilot is out It is backwards for some reason.

Let me know the manufacturer and model number of your water heater and I will do some research. It could be you have a bad flame sensor on the control board or your "pilot light only" water heater works differently.
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:05 PM   #28
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Thanks, we left the trailer in Myrtle Beach til Thanksgiving. It was a lot cheaper than the fuel to bring it home & back again. We have no camping plans til then but if can get away for a few days they will bring it to a site for us.

I assumed that the light being on was normal as it has been that way since new.......

Thanks for the help.

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Old 09-09-2014, 07:02 AM   #29
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All RVs have safety standards; electrical breakers are one of the most important, You have a small electrical panel in your camper...a main breaker that allows 30 or 50 amps of electricity to be used. Messing with the electrical panel could kill you by over loading the wiring to the point it causes a fire. If you require more electricity for your camper...please see a professional electrician and ask for help.
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:59 AM   #30
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All RVs have safety standards; electrical breakers are one of the most important, You have a small electrical panel in your camper...a main breaker that allows 30 or 50 amps of electricity to be used. Messing with the electrical panel could kill you by over loading the wiring to the point it causes a fire. If you require more electricity for your camper...please see a professional electrician and ask for help.
Great advice.
Preferably one who is familiar with RVs.
Don't want them plugging you into a 220 VAC circuit due to the plug shape!
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