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Old 09-08-2014, 05:19 AM   #21
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We have the 8528BHWS 5th wheel. The breakers always blow when running ac and micro or ac and hair dryer. And this has held true on all our previous campers. I always use a separate cord outside for my griddle and of course the ever necessary ice maker. What I tried on our recent trip was I picked up an adapter to take my 30 amp cord into a 50 amp receptacle. We did not blow any breakers but the ac really wasn't working too hard as it was not your typical August temps.
Not sure if that's the right thing to do or not, but it did seem to work.
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Old 09-08-2014, 06:12 AM   #22
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Wayne....lots of RV parks power points have 50 & 30 amp plug ins...at the same location there should be 2 110 volt outlets. Use these for "extra' plug ins.
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:42 PM   #23
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Wayne....lots of RV parks power points have 50 & 30 amp plug ins...at the same location there should be 2 110 volt outlets. Use these for "extra' plug ins.
Thanks Bob. Actually I was aware of the 50A + 30A + 1 or 2 15A outlets in the pedestal.

My issue was that no matter if I were plugged into the 50A or the 30A with the main RV (fat) cord these two appliances would more often than not throw the breaker. I got the confirmation from you all that the current draw will often do that to most trailers in our range and that my trailer is not somehow "special" in that way.

Confirmed Solution - while nuking just turn the AC compressor off (fan can be left on) and all will be good.

After reading your reply (and checking to see if there was another "Wayne" you were replying to) I checked the previous page of this thread and saw where I said that I would revert on the WH on gas issue but I see I did not.

Well the DSI/FLT never did illuminate (indicating that the WH burner failed to light) so I am none the wiser. Will have to test onetonford's explanation next time I go camping - hope I remember, or maybe someone else can test for us ...
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Old 09-08-2014, 03:04 PM   #24
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Have the same Microwave / AC tripping issues on ours (30Amp)

If you use the 50A pedestal outlet on a 30 AMP trailer with an adapter are you not actually only having a 25 AMP breaker at the campground pedestal.... The 50Amp is two 110V legs @ 25Amps each correct?? My terminology may not be exactly correct.


On our 2013 the gas light (red indicator) stays on when the gas is on and in use and off when the pilot light is not lit.

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Old 09-08-2014, 03:15 PM   #25
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Have the same Microwave / AC tripping issues on ours (30Amp)

If you use the 50A pedestal outlet on a 30 AMP trailer with an adapter are you not actually only having a 25 AMP breaker at the campground pedestal.... The 50Amp is two 110V legs @ 25Amps each correct?? My terminology may not be exactly correct.


On our 2013 the gas light (red indicator) stays on when the gas is on and in use and off when the pilot light is not lit.

Well, that is not correct. If you use a "pigtail" on a 50 amp service socket, you will only get one "leg" of the two 50 amp legs available. However your camper is limited to 30 amps and you still can not draw more than 30 amps without blowing the camper's main 30 amp breaker.

FYI - on a 50 amp service, each leg is capable of delivering 50 amps alternating so that the 50 amp rated neutral can handle the power returning from each leg.

Depending on your air conditioner's start up amperage draw (and any other power needs you are using - like the converter providing 12 volt DC - the TV or phone charger), you may not have enough power available to fire your microwave's magnetron without tripping the 30 amp breaker.

Not sure what you are referring to about the "gas light."

Are you talking about the red "fault" or "reset" light next to the gas "ON" switch for the water heater? That light should ONLY come on when the thermostat is calling for heat and the flame is not lit. Once it lights, the control panel should turn it off. If it stays on you have a "fault" meaning the tank is cold and the fire did not light after 3 attempts.
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Old 09-08-2014, 04:42 PM   #26
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Well, that is not correct. If you use a "pigtail" on a 50 amp service socket, you will only get one "leg" of the two 50 amp legs available. However your camper is limited to 30 amps and you still can not draw more than 30 amps without blowing the camper's main 30 amp breaker.

FYI - on a 50 amp service, each leg is capable of delivering 50 amps alternating so that the 50 amp rated neutral can handle the power returning from each leg.

Depending on your air conditioner's start up amperage draw (and any other power needs you are using - like the converter providing 12 volt DC - the TV or phone charger), you may not have enough power available to fire your microwave's magnetron without tripping the 30 amp breaker.

Not sure what you are referring to about the "gas light."

Are you talking about the red "fault" or "reset" light next to the gas "ON" switch for the water heater? That light should ONLY come on when the thermostat is calling for heat and the flame is not lit. Once it lights, the control panel should turn it off. If it stays on you have a "fault" meaning the tank is cold and the fire did not light after 3 attempts.
Thanks, always wondered about using the 50A outlet if you would have just 25A breaker being you are using just one side.

Our light does not go out when the water heater is working on this unit why I do not know. When the water heater works as it should & lights, but the red "reset light" never goes out. Unless the pilot is out It is backwards for some reason.

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Old 09-08-2014, 07:23 PM   #27
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Thanks, always wondered about using the 50A outlet if you would have just 25A breaker being you are using just one side.

Our light does not go out when the water heater is working on this unit why I do not know. When the water heater works as it should & lights, but the red "reset light" never goes out. Unless the pilot is out It is backwards for some reason.

Let me know the manufacturer and model number of your water heater and I will do some research. It could be you have a bad flame sensor on the control board or your "pilot light only" water heater works differently.
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Old 09-08-2014, 08:05 PM   #28
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Thanks, we left the trailer in Myrtle Beach til Thanksgiving. It was a lot cheaper than the fuel to bring it home & back again. We have no camping plans til then but if can get away for a few days they will bring it to a site for us.

I assumed that the light being on was normal as it has been that way since new.......

Thanks for the help.

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Old 09-09-2014, 06:02 AM   #29
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All RVs have safety standards; electrical breakers are one of the most important, You have a small electrical panel in your camper...a main breaker that allows 30 or 50 amps of electricity to be used. Messing with the electrical panel could kill you by over loading the wiring to the point it causes a fire. If you require more electricity for your camper...please see a professional electrician and ask for help.
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Old 09-09-2014, 06:59 AM   #30
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All RVs have safety standards; electrical breakers are one of the most important, You have a small electrical panel in your camper...a main breaker that allows 30 or 50 amps of electricity to be used. Messing with the electrical panel could kill you by over loading the wiring to the point it causes a fire. If you require more electricity for your camper...please see a professional electrician and ask for help.
Great advice.
Preferably one who is familiar with RVs.
Don't want them plugging you into a 220 VAC circuit due to the plug shape!
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:18 AM   #31
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Don't want them plugging you into a 220 VAC circuit due to the plug shape!
Imagine the lamentation on these fora after that ...
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Old 09-10-2014, 08:15 AM   #32
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Your microwave and AC draw every amp of electricity using a 30amp power source. In most cases running them together will use more than the allowed 30 amps, trip your breaker. Your service entrance cable, big wire from power source to you trailer is protected at 30 amps by your main breaker. DO NOT mess with it as it's dangerous to you, your family and can burn down your trailer. Two options; 1st is take your trailer to the dealer and tell them your issues, 2nd way is to use a 15-20 amp extension cord, plug in your microwave and run it to the power stand and use one of the 120 volt outlets. Be safe..do not listen to handy man advise, talk to a certified electrician. Happy camping!
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Old 09-10-2014, 08:31 AM   #33
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Easiest and safest solution is to just turn the AC off for no longer than you will be using the microwave.

Be a little difficult to plug the mw into a separate cord on the pole as the mw plug in's are usually in the compartment the mw is bolted into.
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:54 AM   #34
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Easiest and safest solution is to just turn the AC off for no longer than you will be using the microwave.

Be a little difficult to plug the mw into a separate cord on the pole as the mw plug in's are usually in the compartment the mw is bolted into.
X2

Our microwave is mounted in the cabinets & would be hard to remove to plug into a separate cord. ( I assume that it is cord & plug connected) It would be nearly impossible to run a separate cord to it. It is semi permanently mounted above the stove.

We started shutting off the AC. & back to running the water heater on gas. Never had this issue with our other campers but we never had a mounted microwave before or a water heater that runs on electric as well. Our other microwaves were probably smaller wattage.

Actually it is all the other stuff that is running as well.

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Old 09-10-2014, 05:50 PM   #35
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Well it's about to become cooler and the A/C won't be an issue (for us central folks). We had the same issue and just turn something off to run the other. On do you get use to it, we find it works better.


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Old 09-10-2014, 06:13 PM   #36
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The more I read posts about this the more I am POed about this
FR should not build the trailer if it cannot run the equipment that the trailer is equipped with. If it keeps blowing 30Amps then FR should only offer the unit with 50Amps
If I had known that this was going to be a issue I would have ordered mine with the 2nd AC which comes with the 50Amp upgrade. Like I said ,right now I run a 50 to 30 adapter for the trailer and also run a 110 extension cord to the outside fridge,Ice maker and Griddle .I am going to make myself a adapter to plug into the 30Amp at the pedestal to a two gang GFIC 110 box for my outside stuff when there is no 110 outlet on the pedestal (one of the campgrounds I was at only had a 30 and 50 on the Pedestal)
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