sagging floor

[kfp673]

Sounds good. Couldn't you just work around the toilet and use a piece of flexible molding to hide the cuts? My vision was just to jig saw the wood floor around the toilet and not move it at all. What are your thoughts? So the 3/8" flooring was thin enough for the slide to glide over it with no problems? And if I read it right your floor is just floating correct? You did not glue it for nail it down at all? Thanks again for the info! As for the pics, just post any that you have. More detail for us the better. Thanks!

[kfp673]

Also one more thing. How will you do T molding in the rounded area towards the front of the camper where the carpet and laminate wrap around to the outside door? Obviously you can cut the flooring to be rounded but how would you do the molding? As you can tell I am not a floor expert. Thanks again

[johnymoto]

here's some pics of the tee molding and the finished look.

[kfp673]

Gotcha, so the answer to my question above is around the bend you used metal T molding and it looks like you just creased it a bit to make the turn is that correct? Hate to keep asking for pictures but I would love to see 2 full shots now that its done. One standing by the bathroom and one from the front door just to see the finished look of the entire floor. Thanks again for all the feedback and pics, it's been a big help!

[johnymoto]

ill get more pic's for you today. the t molding i cut with tinsnips and used scrues to hold t molding in place. i found out it;s better to put the t molding in place before you do the wood. then you can cut them perfict my bad. i dident put any felt down that you put under the wood because of the height of the wood concerns of being to high. the main thing is keeping the wood low as posable so the slide out wont drag across it and scratch it .

[johnymoto]

here is the last pic's very happy hope i gave enough info. found out it's better to start putting down t molding strip first.

[Witch Doctor]

That looks great, such things make great improvements and I'm sure it will be a lot easier to keep clean, We seem to always be cleaning our rug. Plus will supply some extra strength. Nice job

[johnymoto]

thank you

[kfp673]

I know this is an old thread but I'm about to do this same job to my 06 831 BHSS and want to get it right. Johnny can you confirm you used 5/8" manufactured flooring? 5/8" is not to thick for the slide? Thanks again

[johnymoto]

3/8 is short the 5/8 is to tall

[kfp673]

Originally Posted by johnymoto

3/8 is short the 5/8 is to tall

So you went with 3/8" correct? Thanks again

[39chevyinar]

After becoming embarrassed at the shape of my new campers floor was, when we got home from a trip i decided to fix it. It felt like you were walking on a sponge and squeaked very bad any where near the rear heater floor duct. I removed the rear stabilizer assembly, the rear step assembly, and the underpinning was detached and rolled up to the axle.
It didn't take long to see the problem, ALL CREATED AT THE FACTORY! The metal 90 degree heater hose was rubbing the slide out bracket. A slight pry and indention into the sheet metal elbow gave a 1/2 inch of clearance.
The sponge feeling floor was almost unbelievable. The factory welded floor joists were welded under the I-beam lip that is used for the main two frame runners. This left a 1/8 to 3/16 gap between the actual floor and the floor joists all the way across the floor. NO SUPPORT! I had some hard vinyl sheets that were 3/16 thick. I cut strips and added them between floor joist and floor. Held there with tywraps.
I now have a solid floor in the living room/Kitchen area.
The bathroom and bedroom floor is acceptable without repairing it at this time.
.