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Old 06-20-2013, 09:21 PM   #1
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Shakedown trip for new 29IKTS


First post to this forum as a new owner of a Flagstaff Ultra lite 29IKTS. What I am going to post is the reflection of an absolute newbie. We have camped for 11 years in a Coleman Redwood Pop-up,basically a tent on wheels. It had no refrig., heat, AC, stove. and one water line to a hand pump faucet that we never charged. You more experienced people will roll your eyes at my naivitie (if that is a word), but Newer campers may just nod and smile. First we camped half hour away determined to use all systems to ensure they worked. These forums were great as I dewinterized and sanitized. I am still a little confused on the plumbing around the pump. I thought the valve there was for the water heater. There are three lines, one for "city water, one for the fresh water tank and one for antifreeze in the winterizing process (Can't wait until I have to do that. NOT!!) My next confusion was for the water heater. The plumbing is cleverly hidden by a paneling wall the you have to tear out to get to the bypass valves. I actually had to call my dealer and he kinda walked me through some of this. There are two switches. One on the water heater, accessible from the outside is an electric rocker switch. I thought if you turned it on you were only turning on the electrical element, and if it was off, you could turn on the inside control panel switch ang propane would heat the water. Turns out (I think) that the outside switch also controls the electric ignition so needs to be on, then the inside switch triggers the ignition so the water is heated with gas and electric. I thought it was either/or, but no. If I have this wrong, feel free to tell me so.

Next issue, my TT comes equipped with something called a galley tank. No one exlalined this to me until I went to the control panel to to see how the tanks were filling. Black tank. 1/4 full. Grey water 1/4 full, Galley tank (What's that?) 3/4 full?! Help. Since I didn't know it existed, I never dumped it as I was dewinterizing, so all the antifreeze and flush out sanitized water was still in there,. Off to my IPhone to access these forums. Turns out the galley tank dump(Labeled lowpoint drain) is only about three feet from the Black/grey dump and I only have to switch the line over when dumping at end. Easy. but no clue in the beginning.

Only other issue was the oven would not stay lit. It would get to temp(and beyond, burned food) then go out and take pilot light with it. Had to relight pilot light 5 times to cook baked potatoes. A call to my dealer indicated a probable thermostat or thermocoupler issue. I will take it back tomorrow to be fixed

The dealer has been great, taking phone calls without making me feel stupid. This has rambled on long enough. I vow to be an active poster. I have learned so much by perusing these forums. Thanks to all for sharing your experiences.

2013 Flagstaff 29IKTS
2010 Dodge Ram 1500, 4.7 L

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Old 06-23-2013, 10:34 PM   #2
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Location: Jacksonville Florida
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Hello mgreen50. Don't feel bad...most of us have been there in your shoes before! As far as the water heater goes, I can tell you that switch that is outside under the access cover with a cotter pin through it is the water heater 120v power. Turn it on, and forget about it. It is FAR easier to turn that power on and off by the breaker located in the converter power box, usually under the fridge. It will be a breaker labeled water heater, and that is all it controls. Most all of us do that. As far as GAS water heater operation, the electric switch (breaker or outside switch- if you must) should be OFF. The power necessary for the water heater's ignition board is powered by 12 volts with a separate rocker wall switch anyway. The ONLY thing that 120 volts does when on shore power is heat the electric element to provide hot water. On gas mode, the gas burner and automatic pilot heat the water, ignition is 12 volts either way. It is somewhat confusing, but when plugged in to shore power, (120vac), the CONVERTER does just that- it "converts" almost everything to 12 volts. The only exception is the A/C, the microwave, the electric W/H element, and the fridge. All lights are always 12 volts, the heater is 12 volts and always gas, the power awnings and power tongue jacks (if equipped) also 12v. The stove and oven are gas only, and the fridge is gas or 120 volts electric. As far as the oven goes, the thing must be re-lit any time it is turned off- they are a pain in the a__! At least the stove has an igniter. Very easy to burn things in the oven, use the rack farthest from the flame, and keep the heat LOW. You can get success from the oven, if you PRACTICE with it. It makes very good frozen pizza!
Those tank indicators are VERY Unreliable- they get stuff on the probes and give false readings OFTEN. I personally haven't looked at mine in 2 or 3 years! Use CALGON water treatment (for soft water) in your tanks- it will make the walls slippery, and therefore make for a more complete dumping. After dumping, I use one capful of the liquid calgon and 2 gallons of water. While driving, it will get sloshed around in the tanks, making the walls slippery. I haven't used any other chemicals in my tanks or any flushers, and I have no bad odors ever. Hope this helps you out at least a little bit!!! Happy camping, Randy

/SIGPIC]'08 V-lite Flagstaff 30WRLS
'06 Ram 1500 QC hemi Reese dual cam sway control,
K&N series 77 intake, Hellwig helper spgs. LT tires,
Flowmaster "true duals", 380 h.p., Bilstein shocks
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Old 06-29-2013, 07:02 PM   #3
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Thank you for the tip on the calgon water softener trick. I plan on doing that when I take delivery of new unit soon.

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