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Old 07-06-2011, 10:33 AM   #21
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THIS ONE is bigger at 1-Liter. Tempted to try it out.
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:40 PM   #22
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I buggered up the wall getting the filter out so the installation is not pretty or I would take a picture of it. It is a very crowded space with wires and pipes everywhere (which contributes A LOT to the noise). I hope to get some spare time to fix up that compartment one day.
Go ahead and post some pics. I need to do the same mod and I would like to see the connections after the filter canister is removed.

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Old 07-06-2011, 01:11 PM   #23
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...Didn't say not to step on the edge of the slide out while its retracted until we already did entering before him.
Just curious as to why. I did it the other day when I forgot to turn off the water heater (weekend warrior). I remember before driving away, hopped up through the entrance and put one foot on the edge to reach the switch....

Yikes, what did I break now
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:57 PM   #24
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Just curious as to why. I did it the other day when I forgot to turn off the water heater (weekend warrior). I remember before driving away, hopped up through the entrance and put one foot on the edge to reach the switch....

Yikes, what did I break now
The wood under the carpet is flimsy and un-supported when the slide out is in and I guess it could crack if stepped on. What pissed us off is he leads us in to the camper and comes in last and tells us as we are already stepping on it
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Old 07-06-2011, 02:21 PM   #25
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Here is a pic of my water filter..Plenty of room around it for an accumulator tank.
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Old 07-06-2011, 02:28 PM   #26
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5 gallon expansion tank - Google Search

If I had ANY room I would have installed one of these.
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Old 07-06-2011, 02:29 PM   #27
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THIS ONE is bigger at 1-Liter. Tempted to try it out.
Damn, the way I had to jam mine in I could have fit that one in easily.
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Old 07-07-2011, 12:51 AM   #28
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Just used our 2011 Roo 21SS for the second time...first time dry camping.
1) Dealer didn't show us how to do the water heater bypass until I asked on a later trip back for slide topper install.
2) Didn't show us about the fridge slide adjuster, either.
3) Nobody said anything to us about not stepping on edge of slide when closed.
4) On our first dry camp this past weekend, filled the water tank, and turned pump on. Pump ran continuously, but no water at taps, nor in water heater. Hooked up temporarily to pressured water, and taps worked. Nobody told us we had to prime the water pump. After disconnecting the inlet tube from the pump and overfilling tank till water started coming out of inlet tube, reconnected it and all worked as expected. DO I NEED TO DO THIS EVERY TIME???
5) Nobody told us the fins inside fridge would condense water & freeze, reducing efficiency (increasing temp in fridge). Freezer stayed in -1 to 6 degrees, but fridge went from 36 up to 47 degrees (above 40 not good!). Ended up moving twin fridge fans from right side to near middle of fins, which helped dry out condensation, and temp went back down to 38-39 degrees. ANYTHING WE CAN DO TO PREVENT THIS CONDENSATION??
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Old 07-07-2011, 07:45 AM   #29
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After disconnecting the inlet tube from the pump and overfilling tank till water started coming out of inlet tube, reconnected it and all worked as expected. DO I NEED TO DO THIS EVERY TIME???
No, the pump is a self priming pump. It can suck water over 5 feet vertically. However, there can NOT be any air leaks on the suction side. Sounds like the fitting you removed was the culprit and you fixed the leaker when you re-tightened it after you got water at the hose end.

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ANYTHING WE CAN DO TO PREVENT THIS CONDENSATION??
Just like in your home fridge/freezer it is a function of humidity and "door open" time letting in the wet air. There is a "Climate Control" switch in the door jamb that uses 12 volts and should not be used on battery.

From the manual (recommended reading):

G. CLIMATE CONTROL
During the summer months of high temperatures and humidity, the metal frame between the freezer and fresh food compartments may have water droplets forming. The number of water droplets will increase if the vehicle isn't air conditioned during these months. This refrigerator comes standard with a 12 volt (DC) climate
control that will evaporate the water droplets when they form.


To have the climate control on, you position the switch ("C", Figure 10) located beneath the top decorative strip that houses the control panel to ON. The climate control can be left on continuously or only used when temperatures require it.
! CAUTION
THE CLIMATE CONTROL WILL DRAW 12 VOLT DC POWER CONTINUOUSLY WHEN IN THE "ON" POSITION. IT SHOULD BE TURNED "OFF" WHEN A CHARGING SOURCE IS NOT AVAILABLE. IT WILL QUICKLY DRAIN THE CHARGE FROM A BATTERY.

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Old 07-07-2011, 10:02 AM   #30
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herk7769, thanks for the info. My fridge is a Dometic DM2652RBFX, and doesn't appear to have the switch you indicate, and doesn't appear to have that feature. In my user manual, the "Climate Control System" is only indicated to apply to model NDM1062. (The manual you attached is for a model RM2652/RM2852, and has a 1995 date on it -- my manual has a 2009 date). Guess FR went for a cheaper fridge in my trailer, and I have to rely on my fans to circulate air and keep the fins mostly dry/frost free :-(.
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