Towing / 2010 F150 Super Crew 5.4

[Gunnergm1]

Mtnguy,
I didn't see any reference to the tranny monitoring on the ScanGauge II page. Looks nice and would be great to have a digital temp readout vs the analog gauge. Maybe I just didn't look hard enough. Thanks for the tip.

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by Gunnergm1

Mtnguy,
I didn't see any reference to the tranny monitoring on the ScanGauge II page. Looks nice and would be great to have a digital temp readout vs the analog gauge. Maybe I just didn't look hard enough. Thanks for the tip.

Extra programmable features are included on the X-Gauge function: ScanGaugeII - Add-A-Gauge

Not all functions work with all vehicles. I specifically asked whether the transmission temperature worked on my truck.....that is the main reason I bought that puppy.

If you already have a transmission temperature gauge, then you are set to go. I knew the newer Super Duties had that, and I am glad to see that Ford is starting to put important gauges in the F150s.

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by Gunnergm1

I could always upgrade the cooler size and I will check into the 3.73 gears. Is the gears thing just a matter of a different rear end gear or is there more to it than that?

If you have a 4WD, then you would need to change the gearing in both axles. I would see how the 3.55s do 1st, before going to the expense of changing to a lower gear ratio.

[EdJunior]

Originally Posted by Gunnergm1

This forum is very helpful. Thanks everyone. I will let everyone know how my rig does once it comes in. I added two more exhaust fans that the factory will install and the power stabilizers and my dealer is installing two more batteries to the TT. We are excited.

Well, I am all for trying to make what you have work with minimal expense and whatever, but now you are adding even more weight to an already close to GVWR trailer. Look, all the "I thinks" and "it shoulds" and "sure it wills" are fine and dandy. But I personally think you are fixin' to bite off more than you can chew. Another very important thing to remember is "can you stop that load". Yes, the trailer has its own brakes, but that is still a lot of stuff to be stopping if you have to do it quickly. Since everyone else seems to be leading you towards keeping what you have, my advice to you would be, before you sink any money into beefing up your F150, tow the trailer a couple of times. Make sure you get up on the highway and tow for a good bit. Find some hills and valleys to go through. If after that, you still feel you can beef up the truck enough to feel confident in its ability, good on ya. But I still firmly believe you are going to need more truck for that trailer. Think about what you will be taking with you on a typical outing. Don't forget the wife and kids and all they need as well. Okay, I've said my piece, and I feel I've done my job. Before discarding it, please think about this. Just because it "can", doesn't mean it "should".

[08flagvlite]

Everybody has their own specific reasons for pulling what they own with their tow vehicle. Yes, I would feel a whole lot better with a Ram 2500 HD Quad cab Cummins diesel, but I already had my truck, and then 2 years later decided to upgrade the camper. And, if I was a "fulltimer", I would probably do just that. But with only using the camper once a month at most, I really think what I have is adequate. Like others have said, see if you can "test pull" the V lite when it comes in, and that will determine how YOU feel about towing your rig. All I can say is I've done most of what I feel is required to work for me. There is added expense with a diesel that I really can't justify with what I do with my truck. Randy

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by 08flagvlite

Everybody has their own specific reasons for pulling what they own with their tow vehicle. Yes, I would feel a whole lot better with a Ram 2500 HD Quad cab Cummins diesel, but I already had my truck, and then 2 years later decided to upgrade the camper. And, if I was a "fulltimer", I would probably do just that. But with only using the camper once a month at most, I really think what I have is adequate. Like others have said, see if you can "test pull" the V lite when it comes in, and that will determine how YOU feel about towing your rig. All I can say is I've done most of what I feel is required to work for me. There is added expense with a diesel that I really can't justify with what I do with my truck. Randy

Randy, I have replied 1 other time to a post you did on this thread as "well said". Ditto to this 1.

[Gunnergm1]

Randy,

Your setup is very similar to what I will have when I go to pull. I am going to do what I can with my truck to make it safe as possible and not hurt my truck and if I feel it's not enough for the load then I will deal with that later. I will park my TT until I can get something that will. After all we will be occasional RV'ers not full time. I have pulled trailers with heavy loads with my company truck, so I am not a total stranger with the fact that stopping distances increase significantly and steady and slow will get you there. I do have one question. So the gear change would have to be rear and front? Thanks

[EdJunior]

Yes, if you have 4X4, you must change the rear and the front. And if you are going to go ahead and do that, I might even suggest you skip the 3.73 and go with a 4.10. I don't think the price difference would be much, if anything, and it would give you a better kick as well, without sacrificing too much on the gas mileage when not towing. I went from a 3.73 to a 4.30 in my old F-250 and there was no appreciable loss in gas mileage (.5 to 1 mpg at most), but the low-end torque increase was fairly significant. Just something to ask about anyway.

[LadyWindrider]

Yes, you must change both sets of gears if you ever want to use 4x4 again. Can't have wheels turning at different speeds. Probably looking at over $1000 dollars, maybe $1500, depending parts. Watch trying to do all the mods suggested, because while they will all help and make the truck tow better, they are worth noting for resale. Basically you are going to invest a lot of money you will never get back. I tow 7000 pounds with a 2001 F150 Supercrew, and if I had children and a dog, could go over gross on the weight issue. My truck does fine, but I know it's limits, and unlike Randy, I have, and will tow in the Smoky, Mountains and am going next week. I would like a 250, but my truck will do for now, as it's main purpose is commute. Towing is occasional. Am I safe? I think so, else I wouldn't use it. Had a left side trailer blow out last year on expressway, and kept all straight and pulled over without incident. My only real concern is loosing trailer brakes, and that's a concern no matter what I pull with. Good luck and enjoy.

[Gunnergm1]

Thanks Edjunior for the tip. Windrider I will try my truck basically stock to start with. After all it is "Built Ford Tough" it tells me that every time I start it up on the consol. I won't be in the smokies but I am in West Virginia and I will be in the hills from time to time. I really think my truck will be ok for the occasional outing. Thanks everyone

[LAS8312]

I pull a Rockwood 8319ss with an Expedition 5.4 with tow package. Seems to do quite well, even in the mountains.

[sccamper]

I'm sort of in the same place as original poster.

Traded in a 25 ft surveyor and knew I was going to need a larger truck to two what I wanted... a 33 ft Jayco 33RLDS.

So I traded a 06 Silverado (7400 trailer cap) and bought a 2010 f150 with 3.73 rear end and the towing package. Also using Reese Dual cal sway.

The F150 is rated for 11200 pounds. My trailer is probably 8700 pounds loaded. The sway experienced is pretty unnerving especially on interstate. In Ford's defense, the Chevy dealer was also telling me that their new 1/2 ton Silverado would two this beast as well. Dealers are the LAST people that I will ever take towing advice from.

Power in the f150 with the 5.4 and 3.73 gear is good. I had the wrong gear in my Silverado previously and the difference is nothing short of miraculous.

I am in the process of getting some supersprings for the rear in the hopes of turning this thing into an f250. I am hoping for the same type of improvement. I'll let the post know how it goes.

[MtnGuy]

Before going to all of the trouble with the spring addition, check into the Reese Dual Cam setup to make sure it is done correctly. It is really important to make sure the cams fit in the crook of the trunnion bars, and also that you have enough weight put back on the front of the truck.

Check out: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...d/17730894.cfm

The dealer did not have my WDH setup correctly, and I have numerous adjustments so that the weight is distributed "just right", and along with that several trips to a little used Lowe's parking lot access road so that I can do the straight line thing and then adjust the cams accordingly. I have my setup towing sweet now.

[Ric]

I'm a first time user so have probably not entered this forum properly: I apologize in advance.

I have been reading the comments regarding the towing capabilities of the 2010 Ford F-150. I am considering the purchase of a 4x4 Supercab with the 5.4 L engine and 3.55 rear end. I am also looking into aquiring a 25 or 28 ft fifth wheel, both having a UVW of approximately 7950 lbs.

I think I understand the various opinions when it comes to towing a TT but my question is does the same criteria apply to a fifth wheel or do the towing dynamics differ? Bumper hitch vs truck bed connection. Does the FW sway as much on the freeways? Would beefed up suspension/air pacs be advised?

The dealer, of course, sees no problem with the F-150 but I thought I'd ask you folks after stumbling onto this site while researching the issue.

Any advise will be truly appreciated.

[LadyWindrider]

With that 5th wheel and truck combination, you won't be happy. The trailer will weigh 8500 when you get it home, and over 9000 packed and ready to camp. You will have about 1200 pound pin weight, and with that gearing I don't think your truck will like it. There are towing guides posted around here, just search for them.

I tow 7000 pounds with a 2001 SuperCrew 4x4, 3.73 gears, in the Smoky Mountains, and I do o.k., but that's all I want. Your main concern will be your rear axle weight limit. Suspension mods won't alter that.

As for a 5th wheel, they do sway some when you get passed by an 18 wheeler. Those that say they don't just don't care, or are trying to be loyal to their truck brand. I pulled one for several years, different truck. There is no sway control for them, and it is really is controllable. As with any trailer, care must be taken when towing. Also for a 5th wheel, it is recommended you have a long bed truck or a slider hitch. Sounds like you still have some home work to do. Good Luck.

[gucci]

Well I have a 2008 Ford F150 Supercrew 4x4 with a 6.5 box and a 3.73 ratio rear end and a 5.4 engine and I tow a Puma 31BHSS with no problem!!!The towing capacity on my truck would be I think at 9400 and the 2010 truck has increased to 11,200 I think...

[grhodes50]

Originally Posted by Ric

I'm a first time user so have probably not entered this forum properly: I apologize in advance.

I have been reading the comments regarding the towing capabilities of the 2010 Ford F-150. I am considering the purchase of a 4x4 Supercab with the 5.4 L engine and 3.55 rear end. I am also looking into aquiring a 25 or 28 ft fifth wheel, both having a UVW of approximately 7950 lbs.

I think I understand the various opinions when it comes to towing a TT but my question is does the same criteria apply to a fifth wheel or do the towing dynamics differ? Bumper hitch vs truck bed connection. Does the FW sway as much on the freeways? Would beefed up suspension/air pacs be advised?

The dealer, of course, sees no problem with the F-150 but I thought I'd ask you folks after stumbling onto this site while researching the issue.

Any advise will be truly appreciated.

If your 5'er's dry weight is 7900, you'll probalby be approx 8900-9100 loaded. So you'll be pushing your trucks towing capacity.

The problem that most ½ ton owners run up against is the hitch weight. Say your loaded trailer weights 9000 lbs. With a TT your hitch weight (10-15% of loaded TT) would be 900-1350 lbs. The % of hitch weight depends on the TT. The same weight on a 5'er an your hitch weight (15-25% of loaded 5'er) would be 1350-2250 lbs, also the % of hitch weight depends on the 5'er.

Even if you go by the lower hitch weight, 1350, by the time you load up your truck with gas, people and gear you'll be at or over your GVWR. You can add air bags to level your truck, but they do not increase your GVWR. I guess if you add springs that would increase your GVWR. If it does, how much? I can't help you there, but I don't see how it could increase your RAWR.

RAWR, yeah another weight rating to watch out for. Also ½ tons usually come with "P" rated tires. With that much hitch weight I highly recommend that you change to a load range "E" tire.

I see so many people focus in on the tow rating only, so I thought I might mention this info. Hope this helps.

Good luck and happy camping!

[RASwift]

Just to put my two cents in, it seems that all of the TT I've pulled since I've been RVing (10 years and 3 different trailers) are within 300-500# of the GVWR of the trailer when ready to go camping. I have weighed all of them at a truck stop near our home and the first actual TT weight surprised me. After that one, I weighed all the rest because i felt the need to know what I was pulling and how the weight was resting on all of the axles. I think using the UVW gives you a false sense of security. Go weigh the rig and see for yourself. Cheap insurance.

[Ric]

Thanks to all for the info.

I'm getting that uneasy gut feeling that I'm going to have to get a larger truck....I was hoping to avoid that in order to have decent fuel economy when using the F-150 for purposes other than towing a fifth wheel....which will probably be 75% of the time.

Back to the drawing-board.

[Gunnergm1]

Ric,

If you upgrade and can afford about a 30% increase in a typical truck payment go with a diesel and at least a 2500. What a difference it makes. I had the 2010 F-150 with 5.4 / tow package/ 3:55 gears and with one pull I felt very uneasy. Granted I may have not gave my truck a chance and it has been a while since I towed anything, but I really felt like I did not have enough truck. I have a 2011 WRLS30. I traded for a 2009 Cummins 2500. Up the mountains of West Virginia with no issues. Down the mountains was even better with my tow/haul on and my exhaust brake on I hardly had to use my brakes. Yes my payment is more but the peace of mind I have with this rig now far outweighs the extra 170 bucks a month. Gas milage is very good when not towing and when towing it drops but not as much as it would with a gas motor. I get around 19 to 21 highway and 14 to 17 in town without towing. I got about 12 mpg towing overall. If you can then go with a diesel. Happy camping

Steve & Kathy
2010 4 nights