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Old 05-10-2010, 09:53 AM   #1
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Towing / 2010 F150 Super Crew 5.4

Hello,
My wife and I just purchased a 2011 v-lite 30WRLS. I am told by the dealership that the F150 5.4 with the towing package will pull this TT. Does anyone on here have a similar setup? My truck is a 2010 model. We just ordered it today and it will be here by the end of June. We are looking forward to the RV life on the occasional weekend and I don't want to have towing problems. We my setup should I have air bags installed or more springs or nothing at all? Thanks for your help.
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:08 AM   #2
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1st of all, welcome to the forum.

More information on your truck would be good.....the axle ratio, the wheelbase (cab and be configuration), GVWR and GCWR.

I have the 5.4 engine with a 3.73 axle ratio that pulls a 5500 lb. Surveyor great, but that V-Lite is a lot heavier and longer.......that is a lot of trailer for a 1/2 ton truck.

Give us more information, and I feel sure the members here will give you their opinions.
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:09 AM   #3
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We pull our 27RLSE wildcat with a F150 supercrew flex gas truck 5.4. We ordered ours with 6.5foot bed which changes the wheel base longer. We put firestone ride rite air bags on to keep the truck level and safety reason, of not putting our driving lites in the eyes of the oncoming traffic. (lots of people don't care though) We love ours does a great job and have pulled ours 6600 miles now in mountains and such. Average about 10mile per gallon with the 5th wheel on. We also have a F350 power stroke and use it to pull cattle trailers alot. We pulled the 5th wheel once and really over kill on pulling RV does fine but real over kill. I think you will be very happy with your new truck. Happy camping.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:37 AM   #4
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Thank you for the replies.

Mtnguy, GVWR is 7200, wheelbase 145", 3.55 ratio limited slip, tow package and trailer sway control. Not sure where to find the GCWR. Dry weight of the 30WRLS is around 6400. Thank for the help
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Old 05-10-2010, 01:08 PM   #5
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2010 Ford F-150 | View Towing Specifications | FordVehicles.com
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Old 05-10-2010, 02:13 PM   #6
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Interesting. The chart that Richard listed is a little different than this 1: F-150.pdf

I would be concerned about being at or over the GVWR of your truck. Comparing to mine, the weight is right at 6000 lbs. with me sitting in it, a bed liner, Trak Rac rails mounted, and a couple of toolboxes and things in the back. That is before I add the generator, a couple of bikes and other camping gear, plus the missus and the dog up front. Add a 700 lb. tongue weight of my trailer with 120 lbs. thrown back to my trailer axle with my WDH, and I am over 7000 lbs. The listed tongue weight of the trailer you are getting is 812 lbs., and you might keep the weight under the truck GVWR with that. But I betcha the realistic weight is going to be more in the 1000 lb. range. You are going to have to be really careful keeping the weights down.

A bigger concern is the wheelbase pulling a 34 footer. I tend to be the length police on this site.........which I don't like being, but I just want everyone to have a safe and pleasant towing experience . Besides a towing chart that I can attach if you need it, the rule of thumb is to divide your wheelbase in inches by 5 and that is the total maximum length of what you should tow. 145 divided by 5 is 29 foot.

An F250 Super Crew long bed would solve both of those concerns, but it sounds like you have already put the money down on an F150. At the least, could change the axle ratio to a 3.73 axle ratio?? That was a $300 upgrade on my 2006 F150, but I think well worth it for the increased power and towing capacity.
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Old 05-10-2010, 02:32 PM   #7
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I guess I will just have to wait and see how the truck does or just take a hit and get rid of it now. My TT does not come in for another 6 weeks or so. Man how depressing! I guess I will be looking for a Cummins diesel. I will have to tell my dealer that I need to hook up to one of his trailers and take it for a spin to get an idea of how it will handle. Thank you all for the help.
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Old 05-10-2010, 02:51 PM   #8
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X2 here, as well. I have basically your setup, with the exception of a Mopar instead of a Ford, and if you look at my truck mods, you'll see that I've added Hellwig helper springs, Dual exhaust for added power, a K&N cold air intake for better breathing in, and LT rated tires, and Bilstein gas shocks. I still have a 3:54 rear end however, that really needs to be steeper, and that's with Michelin 265/70/17's. GET the steeper gear, if at all possible. Any of the other mods can be done later. Also, GET LT rated tires. You'll be very glad you did. If you do a side to side stake pocket "shake test"at the rear side, you'll see what I mean. Watch the tire sidewalls flex side to side- big improvement with the LT rated tires, and, the V front in crosswinds as experienced when semis pass, is a little bit more influenced by those than other flat fronted campers. Incidentally, my 30 WRLS says on a sticker on the tongue area 7575 lbs. dry, or basically as delivered. We love our V lite, and I love my Hemi Ram, but a heavier duty suspension would benefit towing substantially. (5.7 liter 380 hp.) Randy
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Old 05-10-2010, 03:27 PM   #9
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I guess I will just have to wait and see how the truck does or just take a hit and get rid of it now. My TT does not come in for another 6 weeks or so. Man how depressing! I guess I will be looking for a Cummins diesel. I will have to tell my dealer that I need to hook up to one of his trailers and take it for a spin to get an idea of how it will handle. Thank you all for the help.
We didn't mean to get you down. You asked, and several of the members responded. If the truck is already a done deal, then see how it handles the trailer. You might be pleasantly surprised, and definitely keep us posted. I think there are several members here that pull that sized camper with 1/2 tons, so let's see what they have to say when they get a chance to post.

BTW, that 2010 F150 is 1 tough looking truck. Color me green with envy.
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Old 05-10-2010, 04:46 PM   #10
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Mtnguy, I am not really down but just concerned. I really do appreciate everyones response. You are right. I need to just pull it and see how it does. This weekend I may pull one of the same size and weight just to get a feel. 08flagvlite, I did already put dual exhaust (cat back) on my truck. I am getting the K&N filter also. Where would I go to have my gears changed if I feel I need too? New tires were already in my plans too because I do a lot of off road right of way driving inspecting high line. I do plan on driving very cautiously and not get in any hurrys. My specs say the dry weight for the 2011 is 6479. See http://www.forestriverinc.com/nd/def...7&series=Vlite Please if anyone else has the same basic setup give me your thoughts too. Thanks again everyone
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Old 05-10-2010, 05:22 PM   #11
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Gunnergm1, I misread your 1st post, and thought you put a deposit down on a 2010 F150, and already purchased the V-Lite. Some of my comments in post #6 were off base since you already have the F150.

But I will stick to my comment: The 2010 is 1 tough lookn' truck.
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Old 05-10-2010, 05:49 PM   #12
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I think if you tow a lot with that truck, or great distances, you will probably be pretty disappointed. The newer 3V 5.4L engines are great engines, but that is a lot of trailer, and as noted, you are very close to your GVWR before you even pull up to the lot. My personal opinion would be another truck...a beefier (3/4) that will be able to handle that trailer like it should. You will really feel it trying to maintain highway speeds (though I believe the V nose should help that a LOT), and on the hills/mountains. If you do keep it, I sure would be interested in seeing how it does.
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:02 PM   #13
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Not a problem mtnguy. Yes it's a really nice looking truck. I only hope it's up for it's career in RVing

EdJunior, I will keep everyone posted on how my F150 does. If it's not up for the job then I may try the 3.73 gear. If that does not work then a dealer somewhere is going to stick it to me if I can't sell it outright. Man I hate the thought of taking a hit on a new vehicle. I won't be looking to make a dime I just don't want to be upside down by 3 or 4 grand. Thanks,
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:20 PM   #14
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To the list of mods for a 1/2 ton in any towing situation, add a tranny temp gauge and a fan cooled additional tranny cooler. If you're going to break something it will be the tranny and keeping it cool will help prevent tranny damage.
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Old 05-10-2010, 09:56 PM   #15
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I pulled a 29 foot TT witha 1500, yes it pulled it. However the future trips are not on flat ground. You go to West Virginia, Colorado, or any place with big hills, the extra power of a 2500 is nice. The bottom line is you go where you want when you want with what you want.
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Old 05-11-2010, 06:20 AM   #16
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Trade it now. I pulled a 26' with a truck like you have and was very disapointed even on flat land like here in Florida. Went to Stone Mountain GA and came back and traded for a 1-ton. No you don't need a 1-ton, but a F250 would be better. With the F150 even going over bridges here in Florida you could tell the TT was back there. After getting the bigger truck even my 9 year old GD said "wow, papa you don't feel the TT back there do you" so yes there is a difference. If the dealer lets yuo take one of his out for a test pull you will see. Be sure to pull it atlease 50 miles on the highway with big rigs passing you and all.
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Old 05-11-2010, 08:09 AM   #17
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To the list of mods for a 1/2 ton in any towing situation, add a tranny temp gauge and a fan cooled additional tranny cooler. If you're going to break something it will be the tranny and keeping it cool will help prevent tranny damage.
Gunnergm1, the tranny temperature gauge is a good idea. I bought a ScanGuage II (ScanGaugeII - Trip Computers + Digital Gauges + Scan Tool) to monitor that. Easy to hook up to your OBDII port, and fairly easy to program. I have seen my tranny temperature peak at 215 crossing a winding, steep grade over the Blue Ridge here. I don't like it that high, but it only stays there for about 5 minutes or less. Usual operating temperature is in the 160 to 170 degree range. With the 6 speed transmissions that Ford now uses, I would think you would have a better choice of gears for steep climbs pulling a trailer......I wish I had the 6 speed instead of the 4 speed. I have to pull Swift Run Gap in 2nd gear with the torque converter unlocked....hence the temperature increase.

The ScanGauge II can also monitor a number of engine and transmission functions. I monitor torque converter slippage (and whether it is locked-up or not), gear ratio, current mpg, as well as the tranny temperature. Another screen can give you current, day, previous, and tank readings including mpg, max rpm, gas used, tank to empty, max. cooling temperature, miles traveled, miles to empty......and I forget what else. It is really a neat little device for $170.

I think the most important thing I have learned using the ScanGauge II is how the transmission and torque converter work. I always thought my 1st down shift was from 4th to 3rd.....not. The 1st downshift that I feel is the torque converter unlocking. Then if I need more power, the tranny will shift into 3rd, and then depending on power demand, the torque converter can lock-up again.

And watching the mpg readout has caused me to be a little easier on the gas pedal.....and I thought I was being good with that before I bought that puppy.
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Old 05-11-2010, 08:47 AM   #18
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Gunnergm1, I personally wouldn't let all of this scare you into trading for a different truck. I know my wife says I'm absolutely not trading mine....So, I have added mods to make it work. Remember, MOSTLY all a F 250 is anyway is heavier duty suspension and some engine improvements like trans. cooler and a HD radiator, maybe PS cooler, probably LT tires, and sometimes a little better tranny. You can do most of this stuff to your current truck yourself fairly easily, and a little at the time, and you will be fine with what you have. You can get the rear gears changed at most any dealer, as well as 4 wheel drive specialty shops. I know my Dodge already had the HD radiator, trans.cooler, PS cooler, and the tow/haul transmission switch on the shifter. So, all I did worked pretty well for me. No, I probably wouldn't go pulling the V in the Smokies, but around here where it's relatively flat, I'm fine. And, with a rear end gear change, I'm confident my setup would pull fine through the mountains, as well. Remember, these "lite" designated trailers were actually built and designed specifically for the 1500/150 trucks to tow them. Good Luck, Randy
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Old 05-11-2010, 09:00 AM   #19
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Well said, Randy. And coming from someone that has a similar truck and the same camper, your experience is key to this whole thread.
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Old 05-11-2010, 11:37 AM   #20
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08flagvlie,
Thanks for the encouragement and tips. I already have the tow/haul toggle and the tranny temperature, oil temp, and of course water temp gauges. I will be getting tires with a stronger side wall before my TT arrives and the dealer is installing my Reese equalizer hitch. My truck has a transmission cooler that sets just in from of the radiator. I could always upgrade the cooler size and I will check into the 3.73 gears. Is the gears thing just a matter of a different rear end gear or is there more to it than that?

This forum is very helpful. Thanks everyone. I will let everyone know how my rig does once it comes in. I added two more exhaust fans that the factory will install and the power stabilizers and my dealer is installing two more batteries to the TT. We are excited.
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