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Old 01-01-2016, 05:22 PM   #41
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One thing aside from the 1 ton 3/4 ton or 1/2 ton debate is missed constantly.

People say I can buy a 1 ton for less than a 1/2 ton.

You need to look at more than gas/diesel. You have to look at exact options including GPS, Sirius, trim options, etc. Comparing everything is required to make a valued judgement on what costs what.
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Old 01-01-2016, 05:36 PM   #42
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One thing aside from the 1 ton 3/4 ton or 1/2 ton debate is missed constantly.

People say I can buy a 1 ton for less than a 1/2 ton.

You need to look at more than gas/diesel. You have to look at exact options including GPS, Sirius, trim options, etc. Comparing everything is required to make a valued judgement on what costs what.

My SLT 3500 was the same ( after discounts )
As a 1500 SLT. ( which didn't have the discounts)


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Old 01-01-2016, 06:07 PM   #43
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My SLT 3500 was the same ( after discounts )
As a 1500 SLT. ( which didn't have the discounts)


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you understand it, but many others cant figure it out. I paid $47k for a new 2014 1 ton diesel. Sticker price was $54k. Sticker prices of 1/2 tons are often more.
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Old 01-01-2016, 07:32 PM   #44
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A local dealer has all the 3500, single and dual wheel, priced with a minimum of $10,000 off sticker.
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Old 01-01-2016, 07:37 PM   #45
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People say I can buy a 1 ton for less than a 1/2 ton...
In 2013 I bought a 2 year-old Ram 2500 CC for $14K with no Ohio rust & the remainder of Ram's 5 year / 100K Powertrain warranty. I looked far & wide & couldn't find ANY 2011 1/2 ton for the same price, even ones with few trim upgrades. In fact, most of the trucks I looked at in the $14K range were 2006-2008 era with lots of rust & dated technology.

Although I have the same 5.7 Hemi as Ram's 1500 which is also the same size as other 1/2 tons like the Tundra, my 2500 has a payload of 3,000 which comes in handy for hauling mulch, patio bricks, etc. Last Spring I added a like-new fiberglass cap ($500 on CL) to haul model planes safely but it also protects our camping gear.

With family of 5 & 8,250 lb. TT, our payload is over 1,800 even with nothing, not even the fiberglass cap, added to the PU bed. With fiberglass cap, tools, kids' outdoor toys, firewood, etc. we have a payload around 2,500. I love that we can load & go without worrying about going over payload or having to move stuff from the convenient front storage areas to the rear of the TT (which would also make the setup tail heavy & less stable...) I also like that I haven't had to spend money on aftermarket airbags, etc. Our affordable Equalizer 4 WDH is all we need for a great ride in high winds, tight construction traffic, etc.

The 5.7 Hemi did fine maintaining the speed limit throughout the Smoky Mts. & we'll likely keep the same bunkhouse TT until the kids are grown. IMO we're having a lot of fun for 1/2 what other folks have spent for nearly the same gear. (We only paid $35K for our combined 2011 TV/2 slide-out TT combo & we're heading into our 3rd season of camping...)

I ran the numbers & the 5.7 Hemi @ 16mpg on my daily commute is only costing me $500-$700 more in fuel than Ford's EB or a Cummins TD. And, compared to those power plants, the Hemi is inexpensive to repair/replace. In fact, I can get a newly rebuilt engine installed for less than $3,000....
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Old 01-01-2016, 08:21 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by The_Rhino View Post
In 2013 I bought a 2 year-old Ram 2500 CC for $14K with no Ohio rust & the remainder of Ram's 5 year / 100K Powertrain warranty. I looked far & wide & couldn't find ANY 2011 1/2 ton for the same price, even ones with few trim upgrades. In fact, most of the trucks I looked at in the $14K range were 2006-2008 era with lots of rust & dated technology.

Although I have the same 5.7 Hemi as Ram's 1500 which is also the same size as other 1/2 tons like the Tundra, my 2500 has a payload of 3,000 which comes in handy for hauling mulch, patio bricks, etc. Last Spring I added a like-new fiberglass cap ($500 on CL) to haul model planes safely but it also protects our camping gear.

With family of 5 & 8,250 lb. TT, our payload is over 1,800 even with nothing, not even the fiberglass cap, added to the PU bed. With fiberglass cap, tools, kids' outdoor toys, firewood, etc. we have a payload around 2,500. I love that we can load & go without worrying about going over payload or having to move stuff from the convenient front storage areas to the rear of the TT (which would also make the setup tail heavy & less stable...) I also like that I haven't had to spend money on aftermarket airbags, etc. Our affordable Equalizer 4 WDH is all we need for a great ride in high winds, tight construction traffic, etc.

The 5.7 Hemi did fine maintaining the speed limit throughout the Smoky Mts. & we'll likely keep the same bunkhouse TT until the kids are grown. IMO we're having a lot of fun for 1/2 what other folks have spent for nearly the same gear. (We only paid $35K for our combined 2011 TV/2 slide-out TT combo & we're heading into our 3rd season of camping...)

I ran the numbers & the 5.7 Hemi @ 16mpg on my daily commute is only costing me $500-$700 more in fuel than Ford's EB or a Cummins TD. And, compared to those power plants, the Hemi is inexpensive to repair/replace. In fact, I can get a newly rebuilt engine installed for less than $3,000....
I couldn't agree more that buying a used RV and TV is a better financial option. I did the same thing and saved huge vs. buying new. The only downside is that you have to really do your homework and be very patient for the right opportunity to present itself.

As to using a 1/2 ton to tow a 5er, "properly optioned" is key. That will definitely mean a max. towing package and may demand a heavy duty payload option depending on how many passengers and how much gear you need to carry in the truck. However, based on the discussions here, it seems that if you're getting close to a 1/2 ton's max. capability it would be worth considering a heavier duty TV.
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Old 01-02-2016, 12:44 AM   #47
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The site team has performed a clean up on this thread. Please stick to the topic at hand.
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Old 01-02-2016, 01:20 AM   #48
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1/2 Tons may be set up to tow a big load, but they ain't set up for stoppin it!
Employing the TV to stop the trailer is discouraged. That's what the trailer brakes are for.

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The only thing everyone talks about is payload and not what happens when you max a 1/2 Ton's GCWR out on an 8% downhill grade without an exhaust brake.
On numerous occasions, and descending the grade in question, we've arrived at the bottom of the hill with zero fanfare. And yes, the TV is at its limit.
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Old 01-02-2016, 08:52 AM   #49
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It would be hard to test the stopping distance for trailer alone, but for me, I would bet dollars to donuts my TV does provide some of what the trailer "needs" to stop during a hard stop, above and beyond what the trailer can do on its own. My diesel Ram exhaust brake does provide a substantial slowing force when brakes are not needed. I would think, if the trailer brakes cannot slide those trailer tires (and mine will not) if they are setup and adjusted properly; then they are inadequate for hard stops.
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Old 01-02-2016, 10:46 AM   #50
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Employing the TV to stop the trailer is discouraged. That's what the trailer brakes are for.

Everyone knows that the trailer brakes are used in conjunction with the TV brakes. In most cases, they are electric drum and neither the trailer or truck brakes are built to be ridden to the bottom of a steep mountain grade!
I'm sure you've been down the backside of the Coquihalla into Hope. It starts at 8% drop and then levels out to a 6% downgrade for almost 17 kms. With no exhaust brake, you are DEFINITELY riding your brakes all the way down and if you're riding them, they're getting hot. Once your pads get hot they start to disintegrate over a short period of time. Rotors ridden that long don't usually stay flat and smooth to long either. The grades are too steep to use a standard auto transmission alone to try to gear down and hold it. I've had to do the brakes sooner in my 1/2 tons alone without towing anything after a few trips down the mountains.


On numerous occasions, and descending the grade in question, we've arrived at the bottom of the hill with zero fanfare. And yes, the TV is at its limit.
No fanfare, but I bet the people behind you are going "What's that smell?" That's a brake job smell!

If you're doing flats and rolling hills, you're likely fine. It all depends on the weight you're capable of towing and what your set up is.
Me...I live in the mountains and no matter which highway I go on from where I live, there are some nasty grades and they'll either get you comin or goin or both. I, personally wouldn't do it without an exhaust brake or good strong horsepower especially with the weights I've got.

Trust me. None of us are saying you guys with gas 1/2 tons can't tow a 5th wheel or TT. We're just commenting that in most cases, we are seeing guys asking our opinion and find they are maxing out their trucks capabilities with 5ers that should be towed by something bigger and better setup to handle it. Also, knowing the type of terrain you'll be traveling in will leave no surprises or white knuckle experiences.
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