Unhitching on an incline

[CincyGus]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePO7DQueHew

Fastway onestep chocks. Check them out. I'm a fan. Fast to install and remove, easier and lighter than rubber chocks, easy to clean (Spray them with a hose once a year) and most importantly, keeps the wheels from moving at all. If you feel shaking after installing these, it's not the wheels moving, it's your trailer suspension.

I've had more camping neighbors come by and ask about these than anything I have when they see me install them in 2 seconds and remove them in two seconds. I'm a fan of "easy and it works" and buy all products that I can afford that meet those two criteria ;-)

[itat]

Originally Posted by CincyGus

Fastway onestep chocks. Check them out. I'm a fan. Fast to install and remove, easier and lighter than rubber chocks, easy to clean (Spray them with a hose once a year) and most importantly, keeps the wheels from moving at all. If you feel shaking after installing these, it's not the wheels moving, it's your trailer suspension.

I've had more camping neighbors come by and ask about these than anything I have when they see me install them in 2 seconds and remove them in two seconds. I'm a fan of "easy and it works" and buy all products that I can afford that meet those two criteria ;-)

The Fastway chocks look like they are a similar concept to X-Chocks and easier to install. For chocking on a slope, I would want to place 4 downslope chocks so I'd still want an extra set of regular chocks on the outside.

[meandmylabs]

I have camped in a small city park in eastern Illinois that the camping pads were on a steep enough incline that the 27ft trailer I had was just able to get level. Trailer tongue down to the ground and back end way up. When unhooking, the trailer would want to move backward. I always used regular chocks and left my safety chains attached to the tow vehicle until the trailer was unhitched.

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[tonys]

For peace of mind. How about a heavy duty ratchet tow strap? Wrap it around the rear axle and a tree (concrete parking pad, RE-BAR driven into the ground, )Then you know your rig won't beat your truck to the bottom of the incline. Just sayin'

[Toolman_GA]

I parked my trailer on my driveway for two years. I learned to chock the tires while still fully hitched and then put my Tow Vehicle in nuetral and let it settle into the chocks. I always use a piece of 2x12 under the jack foot (which is a round flat plate, that is able to slide a little on the board when the hitch releases). Allowing the trailer to settle on to the chocks before unhitching minimizes the lurching as it is already on its happy place. It also helps to prevent the ball hanging up on the hitch lock, which can happen it there is too much tension die to the incline. Main thing is safety. Chock all Tires and be sure you can get out of of the way if it rolls on you.

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by itat;1989425<<SNIP>>

I've since bought X-chocks but I only install them after I'm levelled.

[ATTACH

193061[/ATTACH]

I love your belt and suspenders approach!!

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by meandmylabs

<<SNIP>> I always used regular chocks and left my safety chains attached to the tow vehicle until the trailer was unhitched.

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Good advice...I'll keep that in mind for my side-hill unhitches. Sometimes the slope is enough to move the tongue "downhill" 3 or 4 inches, and that's pretty unnerving.

[cmartz]

Ok. You have officially convinced me I need a motor home rather than an TT. I have had lots of "stuff" happen while hitching and unhitching during the six months I have been full-timing on my own. I have become more uncomfortable rather than comfortable as time goes on. All your technical jargon is lost on us "newbies" or at least me.

[NMWildcat]

Get rid of any plastic chocks. Go to Harbor Freight and get four of their heavy duty rubber chocks for $6 or less a piece. Kick them in on all four tires on the downhill side. Then do as others said and preload them using neutral in the TV before unhitching. You should have very minimal, if any, movement when unhitching.

And if you think buying a motorhome will solve your problems with parking on slopes and other safety concerns, nope. You just trade one set of concerns/problems for another. And you still have to properly chock tires.

You just need more practice and better chocks.

[Villagerjjm]

I have the X chocks and regular chocks. When I go to unhook or hook up, I always remove the X chocks before raising or lowering the trailer. The reason being is that before I bought the X chocks, I watched a fellow camper keep them in place while hooking up. They actually began to squeak, creak and BEND the tire treads. I thought: NO WAY !!! I have had my trailer shift on steep inclines while unhooking, but never while hooking up. SET THOSE CHOCKS !!! Invest in a rubber mallet!!!!

[kasedian]

Get out. Install the X-chocks on both sides. Get back in. Pull forward just a freckle. Get back out. Unhitch. Get back in. Pull forward and park your rig. Get out. Level that baby up.

[herbike]

I get it chocked, get back in and put the TV in neutral, let off the brake and let it "settle in" to the chocks. Then unhitch, that way there isn't any more movement left if you have it chocked well.

We use the Anderson leveling blocks so I always get them set and then let it "settle", never had an issue doing it that way.

[champ837]

Originally Posted by lbnt18

Have a question about unhitching my 27' travel trailer on an incline. After backing and getting level, I go to raise and unhitch. Even though I have the wheel chocks placed, when the ball "pops" out of the hitch, there is a small lurch forward. Is this usual and will this cause problems? I'm thinking it can't be good on the front jack, seeing this is the only thing holding the trailer up. I've even pulled forward enough so there would be no "play". Still there is just enough lurch to make me nervous. Should I be? Understand I'm a 62 yr old rookie. lol

My first thought when I read your question was that if the trailer was, in fact, level, it would not roll. Unless, the leveling blocks were sloped or you had pushed the wheels a slight bit up on a chock.

When I park my trailer on a level surface and raise the tongue there is no shift. Your issue should be a simple matter of physics.

[kasedian]

Originally Posted by herbike

I get it chocked, get back in and put the TV in neutral, let off the brake and let it "settle in" to the chocks. Then unhitch, that way there isn't any more movement left if you have it chocked well.

We use the Anderson leveling blocks so I always get them set and then let it "settle", never had an issue doing it that way.

X-CHOCKS ?? And you need to actually pull ahead til the tires almost drag the ground.

[stevetheno]

Originally Posted by lbnt18

Have a question about unhitching my 27' travel trailer on an incline. After backing and getting level, I go to raise and unhitch. Even though I have the wheel chocks placed, when the ball "pops" out of the hitch, there is a small lurch forward. Is this usual and will this cause problems? I'm thinking it can't be good on the front jack, seeing this is the only thing holding the trailer up. I've even pulled forward enough so there would be no "play". Still there is just enough lurch to make me nervous. Should I be? Understand I'm a 62 yr old rookie. lol

Hi:
I think the lurch is just a result of the geometry. If the trailer is level, but the tow vehicle is on a slope, as you jack the trailer up, it pushes against the tow vehicle hitch. Since it’s unlikely the tow vehicle will move, the result is as if the tow vehicle is pushing back on the trailer. When the hitch finally disengages, the trailer “springs back” to its original position. Mine frequently exhibits this behavior. I have never worried about the slight lurch (just be aware it will happen and don’t stand where the trailer couldlurch into you) and have not noticed any damage.

[JohnD10]

Someone mentioned earlier to pull the breakaway brake...not a good idea.

That is not it's intended purpose.

[myxkp]

I normally chock on a level surface and still get a little lurching/popping action unless I got the hitch and coupler just right. I chock the forward side, pull up on the chock, chock the rearward side and put the truck in neutral. Now there is static pressure on all four wheels and chocks. The tongue weight is about 10 percent
of the unit weight by factory design with "wiggle" room figured in.

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

Someone mentioned earlier to pull the breakaway brake...not a good idea.

That is not it's intended purpose.

Indeed! X2.
The trailer brakes will lock the wheels, but the battery will go dead.
And if you attempt to replace the emergency brake release plunger into the receptacle, the brakes will release when you are likely to be in a VERY vulnerable position, and the trailer will lurch forward.

[Mad_River]

I meant to post this when I first saw this thread, but I forgot. One of my neighbors has his rig on this incline. Seems to be fine with just chocks and stabilizers down. This is on dirt by the way.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Mad_River

I meant to post this when I first saw this thread, but I forgot. One of my neighbors has his rig on this incline. Seems to be fine with just chocks and stabilizers down. This is on dirt by the way.

Stabilizers are NOT designed for that kind of load. And the owners is making a big mistake by not using tandem wheel chocks.