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Old 07-10-2012, 05:37 PM   #21
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 45
Originally Posted by Triguy View Post
Before you go and replaced the electric element, have you reset the 120VAC, yet?

If its a Suburban like the SW6DE, its equipped with a high temperature limit to cut-out above 180 deg F. These temps will cause the manual reset button to trip and shuts down the electric element. Push the reset button to re-activate the element (assuming its not cooked).

The water needs to be below 100 deg F to reset the element so try again if the first time you did it was hotter than 100 from the gas heater.
That was the first thing I tried, no luck. I guess some time has passed since I posted last. I bought a new element and ordered a socket off Amazon, one that was flat on the end and not beveled like a regular socket. This helped as the nut is very thin. The socket also allowed me to get it in there where I didn't have to remove any LP plumbing. Thanks for your suggestion.

Originally Posted by Capsfloyd View Post
We have the same model 831 RKSS 2012 . There is a black rocker switch on the water heater Front panel on the left lower side for elec. on and off , inside on panel turns on switch for propane .

You had your a few yrs how has the TT held up ? Any major problems ?

Good luck on HW Heater
Yep, that's the switch I failed to turn off when I winterized, DUH! So far we've had good luck with the trailer. No major problems. We had our kitchen faucet leak up top but after removing the handle we saw the large nylon nut just worked loose a few degrees. All better.

Ya know, I've never heard the subwoofer hit during any movies. The surround sound seems to be working but no bass. That's really about it.

2010 Flagstaff 831RKSS.

2000 Excursion Limited PowerStroke Diesel- ATS ported housing, Riffraff's FRx, HPx & I/C boot kit, DiPricol Optix- Pyro/Boost/Trans, DP Tuner-80t, Drive-Thru, 80e, 120race, K&N intake tube w/6637, Exhaust, AIH delete, Foil delete, 4" lift, Airbags, Dunlop Rover M/TMaxx 315/75/16's, '04 headlights.
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