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Old 09-17-2017, 05:50 PM   #1
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Weekend Dilemma

So this past Friday we camped at a state park here in Georgia. The park was a first come/first serve site. I arrived in the afternoon and took a spot that was a little unlevel going uphill and slight right to left dip. The hook ups were on the lower end of the site. I had the nose facing up hill. We use the Anderson blocks for leveling. I could not get the trailer leveled from side to side. It kept rolling off the blocks, I was leveling from the back to account for downhill roll. We got it as close as I possibly could, used my scissor x-chock on the tires, chocked the other wheels and set off unloading and enjoying the weekend.
When I started breaking everything down I noticed the blocks were not under the tire and my front Jack had almost slid off of it's blocks. When I started raising the front to hook up my truck, the dang thing slid off the blocks!! Scared the living poop out of me. Fortunately I had my chains hooked to the truck so it did not go anywhere. After that all else was fine.
Can somebody give me some advice (the nice kind. I do not do well with being blistered on a public forum) on what I did wrong. This has never happen before. We have had the camper since last October.
Could any of the issue be related to the black/gray tanks getting filled?
Thanks for any advice and ask any questions on what I might have missed listing.
BTW- 2017 Flagstaff 831bhds
Thanks!
Also if this belongs elsewhere please move it.
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Old 09-17-2017, 06:00 PM   #2
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If you are on a steep hill you should try to get your leveling blocks level by putting blocks under the low side of the leveling blocks. Then make sure the chocks are level by using long leveling boards that accommodate the tire and the chock or putting additional leveling blocks on either side of the wheel so the chocks are at the same level as the tire. That is what I do. I use 2X6 treated boards to level.
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Old 09-17-2017, 06:36 PM   #3
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When that uneven once you are level or close you can always pull the saftey wire and let the camper lock the brakes till you can get everything blocked really good. I've done this a few times with enclosed trailer and on the race car trailer when having to winch up a really taosted car
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Old 09-17-2017, 07:10 PM   #4
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Our Tri-Lynx leveling blocks have wheel chocks that snap into place. Once the wheel is backed-against the chock, the blocks/chocks cannot move even on a steeper slope. I've used them on state campsites so unlevel that my tongue jack was all the way up...

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Old 09-17-2017, 07:40 PM   #5
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Some may think this is not a good idea but before I disconnect the TV with the trailer on a slant I will put some pressure forward and reverse on the chocks. That will let me know if the chocks will hold. Also I will double chock the down hill side. And as the OP said I will usually leave the chains connected just in case. I have never had an issue while doing this.
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Old 09-18-2017, 01:36 AM   #6
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With that kind of unlevel, I'd want better chocks than the Andersens. I personally use a combination of the LynxLeveler chock/blocks and heavy rubber chocks.
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Old 09-18-2017, 05:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
and heavy rubber chocks.
Yes, the solid rubber chocks that Harbor Freight sells, seem to work real good, and aren't as prone to sliding on concrete as the plastic kind. If your trailer was sliding off the blocks as you described, then it wasn't chocked well enough.



https://www.harborfreight.com/solid-...ock-96479.html

I carry four and place then in front of the front axle tires and behind the rear axle tires before unhooking from tow vehicle, which works similar to how The Rhino has his pictured above.
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Old 09-18-2017, 05:57 AM   #8
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I always keep a set of 4 1x8's to put under wheels for pads like that and I like the Rubber chocks better than the plastic...as others have said...less prone to sliding on concrete or asphalt.
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Old 09-18-2017, 06:00 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Rhino View Post
Our Tri-Lynx leveling blocks have wheel chocks that snap into place. Once the wheel is backed-against the chock, the blocks/chocks cannot move even on a steeper slope. I've used them on state campsites so unlevel that my tongue jack was all the way up...

X 2 here

I only have one of the lynx chocks for the downhill side and chock the other side as well.
Also use the camco version of the bal wheel locks. Those go on before I disconnect
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Old 09-18-2017, 06:10 PM   #10
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Thanks for the input guys!! Looks like a combination will work. Definitely getting the rubber blocks first.
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Old 09-18-2017, 06:47 PM   #11
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Plastic Chocks are sales gimmicks. Rubber chocks all the way!
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