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02-13-2015, 02:53 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: IN
Posts: 200
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Our TV is a 2004 Toyota Seqouia 4x4 with tow package. The trailer is 2011 MicroLite 23LB. I believe the dry weight is around 3700 pounds.
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2011 MicroLite 23LB
2012 Ram 1500 Crew Cab
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02-17-2015, 10:11 PM
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#22
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 30
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Thanks for all the feedback now one last question....when I get one is this something I can install myself?( I'm pretty handy with tools so no prob there)
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02-17-2015, 11:10 PM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 333
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There are plenty of videos and instructions on youtube. They aren't that hard if your handy and have common sense. I guess It depends on which one you get.
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2018 Rockwood Signature Ultralight 8329SS
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02-18-2015, 12:32 AM
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#24
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Blog: RVroadtripper.com
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Near Dallas Texas
Posts: 1,000
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I see someone is offering an almost new Andersen for sale on the classified ads portion of this forum. $300 is a good deal. Its the same model I used for three years. It also was incredibly easy to install and maintain.
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2016 Wildcat 295RSX - 2015 GMC 2500HD DblCab Duramax/Allison 4x4 Z71 6.6' Bed
Maxxis 235/80/16E; AirBags w/AirLift1; mor/Ryde Rubber Pinbox; Andersen UltimateII Alum. 5erhitch on Reese Flipball w/Curt 4" offset; LCI Ground Control3; King Dishtailgater; Traveling with 10' Portabote;
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02-18-2015, 08:31 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser1701
Thanks for all the feedback now one last question....when I get one is this something I can install myself?( I'm pretty handy with tools so no prob there)
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If you are pretty handy, you should have no problem with most of them. The only thing you are likely to run into is having the correct tools for the job. I can't speak for some of the models, but I know for a fact that you aren't going to be able to setup an Equalizer with a standard set of tools. I don't even remember what size socket you need for the ball, but it is big. I think the shank bolts are 1 1/8". Torque specs are really high, too. I think the ball I used was 450 ft. lbs. I used a cheater bar for this- me at just over 2' out equals 450 ft. lbs.
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02-18-2015, 09:11 AM
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#26
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Blog: RVroadtripper.com
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Near Dallas Texas
Posts: 1,000
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I agree with DUSTMAN. For the Andersen you will want to have a Torque wrench. The hitch includes the special socket but you need a 3/4" torque wrench. I picked mine up on the internet from Harbor Freight for $20. It was cheap enough so I just keep it in the trailer.
__________________
2016 Wildcat 295RSX - 2015 GMC 2500HD DblCab Duramax/Allison 4x4 Z71 6.6' Bed
Maxxis 235/80/16E; AirBags w/AirLift1; mor/Ryde Rubber Pinbox; Andersen UltimateII Alum. 5erhitch on Reese Flipball w/Curt 4" offset; LCI Ground Control3; King Dishtailgater; Traveling with 10' Portabote;
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02-18-2015, 09:38 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hbillsmith
I agree with DUSTMAN. For the Andersen you will want to have a Torque wrench. The hitch includes the special socket but you need a 3/4" torque wrench. I picked mine up on the internet from Harbor Freight for $20. It was cheap enough so I just keep it in the trailer.
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Harbor Freight 1/2" Torque wrench-#239 (21.99$), 3/4 Torque wrench #808 (79.99$) Youroo!!
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02-18-2015, 11:41 AM
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#28
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Blog: RVroadtripper.com
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Near Dallas Texas
Posts: 1,000
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Torque Wrench for Andersen WDH and Wheel torques
3/4" Torque Wrench
You need a Torque wrench that provides 100 ft. lbs. setting. This is the Harbor Freight one I use.
3/4 in. Drive Click Type Torque Wrench. Pittsburgh Professional - item#808. 3/4 in. torque wrench provides a range from 50 to 300 ft. lbs. Only: $89.99 Sale: $79.99
It was a sale price of $19.95 free shipping when I bought it, at their current price you might as well just pick up one at Home Depot or Walmart. While you're at it, go ahead and get a cheap set of sockets, then you are set for torqueing your wheels too!
Here's the link for the Andersen WDH Installation Manual. It references the 1 1/4" Socket that's included in the package.
http://www.andersenhitches.com/uploa...02013%20sm.pdf
__________________
2016 Wildcat 295RSX - 2015 GMC 2500HD DblCab Duramax/Allison 4x4 Z71 6.6' Bed
Maxxis 235/80/16E; AirBags w/AirLift1; mor/Ryde Rubber Pinbox; Andersen UltimateII Alum. 5erhitch on Reese Flipball w/Curt 4" offset; LCI Ground Control3; King Dishtailgater; Traveling with 10' Portabote;
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02-18-2015, 01:47 PM
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#29
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 30
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Thanks I already have the torque wrench from when I used to work on cars now while we are on the subject of Harbor Frieght Tools I noticed that they have a Haul Master weight distribution hitch it's rated at 1000-10000 lbs is this any good or should I keep looking
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02-18-2015, 02:13 PM
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#30
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Blog: RVroadtripper.com
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Near Dallas Texas
Posts: 1,000
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I have no experience or familiarity with the Haul Master, sorry. I like the Andersen because it was the lightest and my car's hitch weight allowance was pretty skimpy. Also, the Andersen seemed easy to install and operate when I traveled. It's definetly not the least expensive. New their over $500 and used you'll find them for about $300.
__________________
2016 Wildcat 295RSX - 2015 GMC 2500HD DblCab Duramax/Allison 4x4 Z71 6.6' Bed
Maxxis 235/80/16E; AirBags w/AirLift1; mor/Ryde Rubber Pinbox; Andersen UltimateII Alum. 5erhitch on Reese Flipball w/Curt 4" offset; LCI Ground Control3; King Dishtailgater; Traveling with 10' Portabote;
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02-27-2015, 09:58 PM
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#31
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 30
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Ok we've been discussing WDH for a while now and in my research on E-trailer they state that a TV hitch must be rated a class 3,4, or 5 to be used with a WDH today I went out and looked at my hitch and I couldn't find any tags on it to tell me how it's classified. So how can I find out if I can use one or not?
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03-03-2015, 11:14 PM
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#32
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 8
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Hitches
Check out the Hensley Hitch before you buy, pricey but no worries after paid for.
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03-04-2015, 08:27 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okie joe
Check out the Hensley Hitch before you buy, pricey but no worries after paid for.
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I pull with a ProPride and recommend it over the Hensley for several reasons that I won't get into here. A google search can reveal those easily enough. I think it is overkill on a trailer this size, but if money is no object..... I will say it is definitely worth the money, though.
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03-07-2015, 10:50 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser1701
Ok we've been discussing WDH for a while now and in my research on E-trailer they state that a TV hitch must be rated a class 3,4, or 5 to be used with a WDH today I went out and looked at my hitch and I couldn't find any tags on it to tell me how it's classified. So how can I find out if I can use one or not?
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=====================================
This should help:
Class I hitches will a 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" opening on the receiver end.</SPAN>
Class II Trailer Hitch Receivers- 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" receiver hitch opening.
Class III and IV Trailer Hitch Receivers.Has a 2" x 2" receiver opening.</SPAN>
Class V Hitches .2-1/2" x 2-1/2" receiver hitch opening
Happy trails,
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03-07-2015, 10:54 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 216
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BTW, no one has mentioned the Blue Ox WD hitches. They are so much quieter than the Equalizer" brand and so easy to install and set up.
Here's a video for anyone interested:
Blue Ox Products
Happy trails,
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03-18-2015, 02:19 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Chicago Western Burbs
Posts: 508
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Glad I found this thread. Can I add my question as well? I read that Equal-i-zer hitches are pretty popular. Going on the Equal-i-zer website, I see this model rated for 1k/10k for $765.
E-trailers has a model for $465 rated for 1.4k/14k. What am I missing?
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03-18-2015, 02:50 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karrun
Glad I found this thread. Can I add my question as well? I read that Equal-i-zer hitches are pretty popular. Going on the Equal-i-zer website, I see this model rated for 1k/10k for $765.
E-trailers has a model for $465 rated for 1.4k/14k. What am I missing?
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That hitch doesn't include the shank, which you will need.
What trailer do you have? WD hitches aren't a "bigger is better" proposition. If you oversize your hitch it will cause jarring and won't distribute the weight smoothly like it should.
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03-18-2015, 03:05 PM
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#38
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karrun
Glad I found this thread. Can I add my question as well? I read that Equal-i-zer hitches are pretty popular. Going on the Equal-i-zer website, I see this model rated for 1k/10k for $765.
E-trailers has a model for $465 rated for 1.4k/14k. What am I missing?
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Not sure why you would think the MSRP on the manufacturer's website, would be the real world price.
You need to Google it or go to RVW's website to get better prices.
RVW has some of the best prices and they have free shipping.
I think the 1,000/10,000 4-pt. Equal-i-zer costs around $450 from them. And it comes with the shank.
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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03-18-2015, 03:14 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikendan
Not sure why you would think the MSRP on the manufacturer's website, would be the real world price.
You need to Google it or go to RVW's website to get better prices.
RVW has some of the best prices and they have free shipping.
I think the 1,000/10,000 4-pt. Equal-i-zer costs around $450 from them. And it comes with the shank.
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+1
I purchased my first Equalizer from someone a little cheaper than RVW only to find that is was scratched up and appeared to be either a display model or one that had been returned. I sent it back and got one that was in new condition from RVWholesalers. Granted, it is a large metal item that has been chunked around in shipping, so they will all have some scratches, but not chunks missing where bolts have been installed and torqued.
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03-19-2015, 08:33 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indymule
I pull with a Hensley and recommend it over the propride for several reasons that I won't get into here. A google search can reveal those easily enough.
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ProPride positives:
No need to drill holes in the frame
Adjustable shank- no need to spend $$$ sending in old shank for exchange every time you change truck or trailer(unless new one is exact same height as old)
No fading orange paint after a few months use
Larger stinger receiver for easier hitching process
Less Expensive
Fewer parts- no need for an "emergency kit" like you need with spare parts for the Hensley
Hensley positives:
Lighter weight- less material on the shank primarily because it is non-adjustable
No issue with WD jacks torquing over under load. I made some backing plates that cured this- I understand ProPride offers some as well.
I'm open to hearing others- these are the primary differences I've discovered through my research and use of the PP. Keep in mind that Jim Hensley designed the Hensley hitch AND the ProPride hitch- the ProPride being the design that he considered an upgrade that addressed shortfalls of the original. Both are great hitches and do what they claim- one just happens to be cheaper and does it in a more user friendly way, IMHO.
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