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Old 10-01-2017, 10:25 AM   #1
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Where is the water bypass Valve?

I own a 2016 Flagstaff SuperLite 524RLWS. Does anyone know where the drinking water tank bypass valve is for winterization?
Thanks!
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:41 AM   #2
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It's actual name is the Hot Water Heater (HWH) bypass valve. It bypasses the HWH, not the "drinking" (Fresh) water tank. And remember you need to close the cold water outlet inlet valve and hot water outlet valve, which should be in the same place, when you open the bypass valve.

Can't tell you specifically where it's at, but go outside to your hot water heater access panel. Now envision where the other side of the water heater would be on the inside. Then go inside and look for a panel you can remove or a door you can open.

FR likes to put these behind panels that are either directly screwed shut with a 4 or 6 screws, or behind a door that has 2 hinges on one side and one hinge on the other. Below is a pic of the door that my HWH is behind. Unscrew the single hinge, and open the door.

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UPDATE: Found a pic of your unit online. Looks to me like your HWH is under the counter between your sink and the wall. You just need to figure out how to get to it.

It looks like there's a storage cabinet door just inside your entry door to the right. I'd start there. If you open it, there may be some kind of removable panel at the back of the cabinet. OR there may be a removable panel on the left side of the space under the sink that you get to via the cabinet door at your knees when standing at the sink.
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Old 10-01-2017, 11:28 AM   #3
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The WH should be under the kitchen sink to the left side. I couldn't find any photos of the kitchen area but most likely there is a cabinet door there and on the inside of that compartment there should be a removable panel held in by a couple screws. Remove the panel and you will find the back of the WH. There is different plumbing on various RV so there may be 1,2,or 3 valves on the back of the WH. If there are 3 valves turn all the handles so they are vertical, if there are 2 valves both of them vertical, if here is one valve turn it so it is vertical. You will have to locate the fresh water tank drain under the RV. It may have a small ball valve or it may have a pipe cap. Next locate the low point drains, there should be a decal on the side of your RV that will give you the approximate location of the low point drains under the RV. There should be 2 pipes hanging down, most times it will be a white pipe and a blue pipe (hot and cold) with caps on the ends. Remove the caps and then open all the faucets and operate the toilet valve. Drain the WH tank by removing the anode rod if you have Suburban WH, be sure you relieve any pressure in the system by opening the pressure relief valve and no hot water in the tank or you will get a unintended bath. Go to the city water inlet on the outside of the RV and remove the filter screen and put you finger or a pen into the opening to release the water in the pipe. You may have a black tank flush so you need to clear that of any water also.
The winterizing procedure is generic to all RV's. Attached is a You Tube video that my help you understand it. There are may You Tube videos on the subject so just look at several to see how it is done.
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Old 10-01-2017, 12:26 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by BooBoo23 View Post
Attached is a You Tube video that my help you understand it. There are may You Tube videos on the subject so just look at several to see how it is done.
Good video, but they didn't include blowing out the lines with an air compressor first.
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Old 10-01-2017, 05:10 PM   #5
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Page 2 of this generic plumbing pic shows the numerous ways they've developed over the years to arrange the HWH valves.
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Old 10-02-2017, 03:20 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by JayArras View Post
Good video, but they didn't include blowing out the lines with an air compressor first.
Blowing out the water first is not absolutely necessary but still a good idea. If you have a compressor at home all you need is a "blow out plug"
http://amzn.to/2xMOVeE
one end goes onto your city water connection on your RV, the other end goes onto your air compressor hose. Set your compressor to somewhat below 40 psi to avoid damaging your water system.
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Old 10-02-2017, 03:26 PM   #7
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It sounds to be like the original poster is not asking about the hot water heater bypass but rather the fitting to suck antifreeze directly into the water pump for winterization (there bypassing the fresh water tank.)
That being said I am not familiar with your trailer to tell you where this inlet is located, or if it even has one. Mine does not have one, but they can be added.
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Old 10-02-2017, 05:36 PM   #8
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First thing to do with any RV is to get rid of those screws that hold those panels on that let you get access to your hot water heater or any other fuse boxes.
After all each time you take the screws out the holes get messy and bigger
Get some Velcro and you are done.




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Old 10-02-2017, 05:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody View Post
It sounds to be like the original poster is not asking about the hot water heater bypass but rather the fitting to suck antifreeze directly into the water pump for winterization (there bypassing the fresh water tank.)
RIght. Fact is we're not certain what the OP is asking since the terminology is non-standard. Maybe we'll get more info soon.
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Old 10-02-2017, 10:53 PM   #10
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I did find the HWH bypass valve. Thanks to your post. I do have a factory fitting to suck antifreeze into the system.
And a separate fill fitting for the Fresh water tank
and a separate fitting to hook up city water.

Here is my next question.
When sucking antifreeze into the system through the factory fitting does it go into the water tank as well as all the other lines as pointed out in the video?
Thanks for all the help so far and the video was great to.
John
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Old 10-02-2017, 11:12 PM   #11
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You don't really want antifreeze in your fresh water tank. You want to drain the tank and just leave it empty. So if you have the 3-way valve, turn it so the pump sucks from the AF connection. If you have separate valves, make sure the valve from the pump suction to the fresh water tank is closed and the valve from the pump suction to the AF connection is open.
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Old 10-03-2017, 06:20 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John24RLS View Post
I did find the HWH bypass valve.
Here is my next question.
When sucking antifreeze into the system through the factory fitting does it go into the water tank as well as all the other lines as pointed out in the video?
Thanks for all the help so far and the video was great to.
John
2016 Flagstaff Superlite 524RLWS
Let's deal with the tanks separately.
Fresh water tank: When you switch the valve on the plumbing leading to the water pump, it will connect the antifreeze fill hose to the water pump and cut off the feed from the fresh water tank.
Hot water tank: You do not want to put antifreeze into the hot water tank. First, it would take a lot of antifreeze to fill the tank, then it may be difficult to remove all the residue from the hot water tank. (Some manufacturers of hot water tanks specify not to put in antifreeze for a variety of reasons.) This is the reason that there should be a hot water tank bypass.

So to answer your question: Neither.The antifreeze goes only into the water lines and into the P-traps.
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:58 PM   #13
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I found the Water tank bypass valve and the water pump.




In the second picture you are looking at the rear wall of the through cargo compartment. Is the duct in this picture that is not connected to anything for heating the cargo compartment?



Thanks John
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