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Old 10-22-2013, 04:58 PM   #11
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Doering,

I think you have a great list there and I even copied it, however unless I am totally confused, I will eliminate step 13 and this is my reasoning.
You state you do this so you do not have to go back again in the Spring to those valves (if I understood you correctly).
I fully believe that you just added a step for in the Spring because now you MUST go back in the Spring and re-close those valves before pressurizing. Failure to do so will result in all your anti-freeze that is in the lines will immediately flow into your hot water tank the minute you flush your system and have water pressure in the system.
Also, if you have any expansion in your water lines due to cold weather, that water caused by expansion will end up in the water heater.
I apologize is I am not understanding it correctly.
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:07 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by racerx View Post
Doering,

I think you have a great list there and I even copied it, however unless I am totally confused, I will eliminate step 13 and this is my reasoning.
You state you do this so you do not have to go back again in the Spring to those valves (if I understood you correctly).
I fully believe that you just added a step for in the Spring because now you MUST go back in the Spring and re-close those valves before pressurizing. Failure to do so will result in all your anti-freeze that is in the lines will immediately flow into your hot water tank the minute you flush your system and have water pressure in the system.
Also, if you have any expansion in your water lines due to cold weather, that water caused by expansion will end up in the water heater.
I apologize is I am not understanding it correctly.
Hi racerx,
Yes, you are right in your reasoning. I suppose what I have done is just to ensure some anti-freeze hit the valve mechanisms. Not sure if it really matters as I adapted this list from other sources. With the valves turned back, I was planning on flushing the lines and hot water tank thoroughly a couple of times when de-winterizing in the spring. I don't think there is any problem with anti-freeze entering the hot water tank providing it is flushed immediately. It will also help to get rid of any anode sediment in the bottom of the tank. There are so many procedure variations out there. I think the main thing is getting anti-freeze to fill the main lines and the faucets where most freezing damage can occur.
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Old 10-22-2013, 08:06 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Vern View Post

While this makes sense, like racerx above, I'm confused (or conflicted) by step #13 and this thought, as I have always been of the impression that the pink stuff should not be allowed into the hot water heater. Isn't this inconsistent with that rule?
The pink stuff wont bother your tank, I usually open and then close the valves. Normally you bypass the tank so you don't waste six gallons of antifreeze.
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Old 10-24-2013, 03:28 PM   #14
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I love it when someone else creates my lists for me...
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Old 10-24-2013, 03:45 PM   #15
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I love it when someone else creates my lists for me...
You are welcome. This is such a black box area for the newcomer. It really wouldn't be that hard for the individual RV makes to include a similar list with an explanation (if applicable) as to why each step is being performed. The content in the general user manuals is there, but leaves gaps and is vague in spots to appreciate why the steps are taken to completely winterize the unit properly.
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Old 10-27-2013, 01:47 PM   #16
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Doering

Thanks for the checklist. We also have an 832 IKBS and until your post there was not much clarity on where things were. We got ours done today and was very simple following your list.
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Old 11-03-2013, 12:37 PM   #17
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I have not found any low water drain taps on our 26RLWS Super Lite. I have followed Doering's winterizing list except that I use 40psi air to blow our the lines, however, I am concerned that water may remain somewhere in the lines. Our previous trailer had underbody low point drains in three places which worked great for winterizing. The manual for the trailer includes other models and information is too general in nature to be of much use. Anyone know if the subject model has underbody drains?
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Old 11-03-2013, 03:11 PM   #18
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I have not found any low water drain taps on our 26RLWS Super Lite. I have followed Doering's winterizing list except that I use 40psi air to blow our the lines, however, I am concerned that water may remain somewhere in the lines. Our previous trailer had underbody low point drains in three places which worked great for winterizing. The manual for the trailer includes other models and information is too general in nature to be of much use. Anyone know if the subject model has underbody drains?
Glad my list was of assistance. I would say that if low point drains are not visible beneath the trailer, you don't have any. I'm not 100% sure for your particular unit, but it certainly wouldn't make sense to have low point drain points higher or for that matter hidden within the unit above the floor level.
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccortes33 View Post
I have not found any low water drain taps on our 26RLWS Super Lite. I have followed Doering's winterizing list except that I use 40psi air to blow our the lines, however, I am concerned that water may remain somewhere in the lines. Our previous trailer had underbody low point drains in three places which worked great for winterizing. The manual for the trailer includes other models and information is too general in nature to be of much use. Anyone know if the subject model has underbody drains?
\ccortes: I have a 29RLSS, which is similar to your model. My two low point drain lines are side by side and located under the RV body, between the two right hand tires. Run your hand under this area and if you feel two tubes about 4" in length, that is the low point drains. Each has a cap that you can unscrew with your hand to drain. Be very careful not to lose the plastic gasket in each cap. Sometimes they pull from the caps and stick to the pipe fitting. You can feel the gasket with your hand or check each cap after they are removed. This information MAY applied to your model 26RLWS!
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Old 12-04-2013, 08:48 PM   #20
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Glad i caught this thread (been away/off line a bit since our return).. THOUGHT i'd had my IKBS winterized.. but spaced that black water flush sys! Will hit it with compressed air tomorrow! Love this board!!
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