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Old 10-19-2013, 01:17 PM   #1
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Winterizing the Flagstaff 832IKBS

Winterizing the Flagstaff 832IKBS

Made a list for myself to make sure I wouldn't forget a step. Just finished the job and thought I'd share for others interested. This list was compiled from a number of sources and modified specifically for our trailer.

1. Remove the water filter housing under the bathroom sink, empty and replace the empty housing. Make sure it is fully inserted and tight!

2. Open the dump valves and drain the grey and black holding tanks. Close the valves.

3. Open the fresh water tank valve to ensure it is empty.

4. Drain the low points by removing the black caps from the hot water drain and cold water drain.

5. Remove the hot water tank anode plug with a socket wrench to drain the hot water tank (leave a hot water tap open during this time to prevent an air lock and allow the water to run smoothly outside the tank). Clean and dry the anode thoroughly.

6. Open all the taps
- kitchen sink taps
- bathroom sink taps
- inside shower taps
- outside shower taps
- depress toilet valve till no water runs

7. Replace the black caps on the hot and cold low point drains.

8. Turn on the water pump to expel any remaining water in the lines with all the taps open.

5. Turn off the water pump and CLOSE ALL TAPS.

8. By-pass the water heater
- turn all 3 white valves under the kitchen sink (I previously had made a small cutout in the paneling under the kitchen sink to allow quick access to the lowest valve without having to remove the large panel section)
- turn (close) the black valve (located close to the water pump filter) under the bathroom sink.

9. Run anti-freeze through the plumbing.
- attach hose from winterizing inlet to the jug with anti-freeze
- turn on the water pump - (will pull anti-freeze from winterizing inlet). Entire system will pressurize and the pump will stop.

10. Open all faucets (hot and cold taps) one at a time till pink anti-freeze comes out starting at the closest taps.
- bathroom sink taps
- shower taps
- kitchen sink taps
- outside shower taps

11. Flush the toilet until anti-freeze runs in the toilet bowl.

12. Turn the water pump off and open a faucet (momentarily) to release the pressure. Go outside to the city water inlet. Remove the small screen over the inlet and push in on the plastic valve with a small screwdriver until antifreeze comes out. DON'T STAND IN FRONT OF THE INLET! Replace the screen and close the inlet.

13. Re-open the 3 white by-pass valves for the water heater under the kitchen sink.

14. Pour anti-freeze into the shower, bathroom sink and kitchen sink to winterize the p-traps (about 1 cup).

15. Remove the screen from the black tank flush inlet and pour a small amount of anti-freeze into the inlet.

16. Dry all the sinks and shower and make sure all taps are closed.
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Old 10-19-2013, 01:47 PM   #2
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We have the same model, Doering, and thought we had the job done about an hour ago. Instead of running the antifreeze through the lines, we use the compressed air method.

Since the owner's manual is so lame in describing all the valves, I found the one black valve behind the water filter, as well as one for the water heater -- it was barely visible from the top of the panel. To reach it, I removed the furnace return air cover, and reached up to turn it off.

You say there are two more valves in that area, and I missed seeing them. They must be under/below the first valve, and hidden from view by the wood panel and back of the water heater. Correct?

In looking inside the bathroom sink cabinet, did you also see the black value that sits high up, inside the left-hand corner? It practically rubs the underside of the sink, and at first I missed seeing it. Did you do anything with this valve? It's a different appearing valve, with a rectangular-shaped knob.

Thanks for your info!
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Old 10-19-2013, 02:41 PM   #3
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Hi Badlands,
Yes, there are 2 more white handled valves under the kitchen sink (a total of 3). It is easy to miss them. Just follow all the lines closely and you will see them. You need a flashlight to see them properly. These may not be important if using the compressed air method. They are mainly used to avoid putting 6 gallons of anti- freeze in the hot water tank.
Yes, I see the rectangular knob up high under the bathroom sink. Not sure exactly what this for. It is connected to the black flush line and maybe some sort of pressure release valve?
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Old 10-19-2013, 06:10 PM   #4
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Thanks, Doering. I was thinking the same about those valves I missed, since they should be a non-issue when using compressed air, but didn't want to miss anything! Besides, I'm glad to know where they are, so appreciate your information.

Yes, that black valve at the top of the sink has me a bit stumped, too. Especially with the oddly shaped knob. Perhaps you are correct in it being some sort of pressure release valve. There's so many lines snaking around in there, that it's a bit difficult to ID what's going where!

Just so I knew what was there, I pulled the lower panel on the bathroom closet to have a look inside. What a bundle(s) of wire! Holy cow! I'd sure hate route all those wires, and gives a real appreciation for building a trailer in stages.

I have only one other thing on the trailer I haven't figured out yet--least this I know about!! I should get a picture and show you . . . perhaps you'll know. It's a roughly square piece of metal, approximately 6" x 6", and another piece, approximately 1.5" in length, 1" diameter, and appears to be anodized blue. And, based on the four screw holes in the plate and the round piece, the two are meant to be joined together. It wasn't ID'd during the walk through at the dealer, and I haven't figured out where it goes, what it's for, or why it's even there. Not much help, em I!!

Does my vague description ring any bells with you?

Many thanks!
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Old 10-19-2013, 06:48 PM   #5
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Badlands,
Those pieces you haven't figured out sound like they are for the TV stand since the TV is wall mounted.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:31 AM   #6
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Badlands:
That black rectangular piece under the sink is a back-flow regulator.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:14 AM   #7
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Why step #13? I would think that is not a step needed. By reopening the valves, will that not allow antifreeze to get in the hot water tank when repressurizing in the Spring?
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:42 AM   #8
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Why step #13? I would think that is not a step needed. By reopening the valves, will that not allow antifreeze to get in the hot water tank when repressurizing in the Spring?
Yes, you can leave them turned. Just saves going back underneath when flushing the system in the spring. I turned mine back and no antifreeze entered the hot water tank, so maybe they have one way valves that open under pressure.

A further note: You really should use compressed air to blow out the black tank flush line. The way it is designed on the 832IKBS makes it impossible to flush the lines with anti-freeze via gravity because as soon as the line enters the trailer it goes up to the back flow valve and then down. You would need some pressure to get anti-freeze through the lines. Use 30PSI max when using compressed air via the blow out adapter. I will have to do this!
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Old 10-22-2013, 03:47 AM   #9
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Why step #13? I would think that is not a step needed. By reopening the valves, will that not allow antifreeze to get in the hot water tank when repressurizing in the Spring?
Hello,
If you reopen your bypass valves, it will remove any water that could have been stuck in the ball of the ball valve. Any water left in there could cause the valve to freeze and crack.
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Old 10-22-2013, 05:42 AM   #10
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Hello,
If you reopen your bypass valves, it will remove any water that could have been stuck in the ball of the ball valve. Any water left in there could cause the valve to freeze and crack.
While this makes sense, like racerx above, I'm confused (or conflicted) by step #13 and this thought, as I have always been of the impression that the pink stuff should not be allowed into the hot water heater. Isn't this inconsistent with that rule?
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Old 10-22-2013, 03:58 PM   #11
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Doering,

I think you have a great list there and I even copied it, however unless I am totally confused, I will eliminate step 13 and this is my reasoning.
You state you do this so you do not have to go back again in the Spring to those valves (if I understood you correctly).
I fully believe that you just added a step for in the Spring because now you MUST go back in the Spring and re-close those valves before pressurizing. Failure to do so will result in all your anti-freeze that is in the lines will immediately flow into your hot water tank the minute you flush your system and have water pressure in the system.
Also, if you have any expansion in your water lines due to cold weather, that water caused by expansion will end up in the water heater.
I apologize is I am not understanding it correctly.
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:07 PM   #12
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Doering,

I think you have a great list there and I even copied it, however unless I am totally confused, I will eliminate step 13 and this is my reasoning.
You state you do this so you do not have to go back again in the Spring to those valves (if I understood you correctly).
I fully believe that you just added a step for in the Spring because now you MUST go back in the Spring and re-close those valves before pressurizing. Failure to do so will result in all your anti-freeze that is in the lines will immediately flow into your hot water tank the minute you flush your system and have water pressure in the system.
Also, if you have any expansion in your water lines due to cold weather, that water caused by expansion will end up in the water heater.
I apologize is I am not understanding it correctly.
Hi racerx,
Yes, you are right in your reasoning. I suppose what I have done is just to ensure some anti-freeze hit the valve mechanisms. Not sure if it really matters as I adapted this list from other sources. With the valves turned back, I was planning on flushing the lines and hot water tank thoroughly a couple of times when de-winterizing in the spring. I don't think there is any problem with anti-freeze entering the hot water tank providing it is flushed immediately. It will also help to get rid of any anode sediment in the bottom of the tank. There are so many procedure variations out there. I think the main thing is getting anti-freeze to fill the main lines and the faucets where most freezing damage can occur.
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:06 PM   #13
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While this makes sense, like racerx above, I'm confused (or conflicted) by step #13 and this thought, as I have always been of the impression that the pink stuff should not be allowed into the hot water heater. Isn't this inconsistent with that rule?
The pink stuff wont bother your tank, I usually open and then close the valves. Normally you bypass the tank so you don't waste six gallons of antifreeze.
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Old 10-24-2013, 02:28 PM   #14
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I love it when someone else creates my lists for me...
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Old 10-24-2013, 02:45 PM   #15
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I love it when someone else creates my lists for me...
You are welcome. This is such a black box area for the newcomer. It really wouldn't be that hard for the individual RV makes to include a similar list with an explanation (if applicable) as to why each step is being performed. The content in the general user manuals is there, but leaves gaps and is vague in spots to appreciate why the steps are taken to completely winterize the unit properly.
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Old 10-27-2013, 12:47 PM   #16
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Doering

Thanks for the checklist. We also have an 832 IKBS and until your post there was not much clarity on where things were. We got ours done today and was very simple following your list.
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Old 11-03-2013, 12:37 PM   #17
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I have not found any low water drain taps on our 26RLWS Super Lite. I have followed Doering's winterizing list except that I use 40psi air to blow our the lines, however, I am concerned that water may remain somewhere in the lines. Our previous trailer had underbody low point drains in three places which worked great for winterizing. The manual for the trailer includes other models and information is too general in nature to be of much use. Anyone know if the subject model has underbody drains?
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Old 11-03-2013, 03:11 PM   #18
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I have not found any low water drain taps on our 26RLWS Super Lite. I have followed Doering's winterizing list except that I use 40psi air to blow our the lines, however, I am concerned that water may remain somewhere in the lines. Our previous trailer had underbody low point drains in three places which worked great for winterizing. The manual for the trailer includes other models and information is too general in nature to be of much use. Anyone know if the subject model has underbody drains?
Glad my list was of assistance. I would say that if low point drains are not visible beneath the trailer, you don't have any. I'm not 100% sure for your particular unit, but it certainly wouldn't make sense to have low point drain points higher or for that matter hidden within the unit above the floor level.
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:02 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by ccortes33 View Post
I have not found any low water drain taps on our 26RLWS Super Lite. I have followed Doering's winterizing list except that I use 40psi air to blow our the lines, however, I am concerned that water may remain somewhere in the lines. Our previous trailer had underbody low point drains in three places which worked great for winterizing. The manual for the trailer includes other models and information is too general in nature to be of much use. Anyone know if the subject model has underbody drains?
\ccortes: I have a 29RLSS, which is similar to your model. My two low point drain lines are side by side and located under the RV body, between the two right hand tires. Run your hand under this area and if you feel two tubes about 4" in length, that is the low point drains. Each has a cap that you can unscrew with your hand to drain. Be very careful not to lose the plastic gasket in each cap. Sometimes they pull from the caps and stick to the pipe fitting. You can feel the gasket with your hand or check each cap after they are removed. This information MAY applied to your model 26RLWS!
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Old 12-04-2013, 08:48 PM   #20
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Glad i caught this thread (been away/off line a bit since our return).. THOUGHT i'd had my IKBS winterized.. but spaced that black water flush sys! Will hit it with compressed air tomorrow! Love this board!!
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