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Old 10-04-2013, 08:49 AM   #1
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2011 1809s yellow sticker

Hi all.

Didn't want to open new thread but need help from some of you guys.

Can anybody who owns 2011 1809s can tell me actual weight from the yellow sticker on the unit?.

thanks
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Old 10-06-2013, 06:10 PM   #2
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I have a 2012 1809s and the sticker says dry weight 3550lbs. Not sure if that will help you
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Old 10-07-2013, 09:27 AM   #3
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So it's been 3 days with little to no response. Do you mind if I ask why you want to know the yellow sticker of a unit? If you're estimating weight- you seem like you only have about 1,000 pounds of carrying capacity. I think it's a safe assumption that the camper is going to weigh 300-400 pounds heavier than the advertised dry weight (especially once propane is added, spare tire is there, a tiny bit of water is in each waster water, possibly fresh water tank and water heater). And then you'll add your stuff...
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:39 AM   #4
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To add to the point that ependydad made, I hope your not looking for the sticker weight to determine if it's within your towing capacity. If that's the case, you should be using the camper's GVWR, especially if the spec carrying capacity is that low.

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Old 10-07-2013, 12:18 PM   #5
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If that's the case, you should be using the camper's GVWR, especially if the spec carrying capacity is that low.

Dave
good advice for a trailer with a CCC of only 1,136lbs.
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:42 PM   #6
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thank you everybody for input.

Reason why I asked about yellow sticker is on some websites and brochures for 2011 1809s I found 3 different numbers 3029lbs,3166lbs and 3343lbs so I didn't really know to which one add this 3-400lbs.

I am checking all numbers to find out if I can pull this rig with my ford flex eco-boost.
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Old 10-07-2013, 01:09 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by kurens View Post
thank you everybody for input.

Reason why I asked about yellow sticker is on some websites and brochures for 2011 1809s I found 3 different numbers 3029lbs,3166lbs and 3343lbs so I didn't really know to which one add this 3-400lbs.

I am checking all numbers to find out if I can pull this rig with my ford flex eco-boost.
Different options require different stickers.

Each unit is weighed individually as it comes off the line.

P.s If your trying to decide if you can tow unit based off the uvw "unloaded vehicle weight" your using the wrong numbers.

You need to use hitch weight and gross vehicle weight numbers.


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Old 10-07-2013, 02:19 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by kurens View Post
thank you everybody for input.

Reason why I asked about yellow sticker is on some websites and brochures for 2011 1809s I found 3 different numbers 3029lbs,3166lbs and 3343lbs so I didn't really know to which one add this 3-400lbs.

I am checking all numbers to find out if I can pull this rig with my ford flex eco-boost.
Yep- exactly what Turbs said. When you look at the "dry" weight or even the "yellow sticker" weight- these are both with essentially empty trailers. Pardon me if you know this already, but here's what I think you need to know:

1) There is an advertised "dry" weight- this is the absolute minimum that a camper will weigh. This is with no options selected when the dealer or customer ordered the camper, no propane and no battery.

2) There is a yellow sticker weight- this is the weight for an exact unit as it comes off of the factory floor. They weigh it immediately after building it (with special options for how the customer/dealer wanted it). Very few times will 2 units match exactly. This is still without propane, battery and (of course) any of your stuff.

3) There is a not-advertised (as it is impossible to know) actual loaded weight. This is once you get it, fill the propane, add a battery (or batteries) and anything else that you add into the camper. This is unique for everyone and the only way to find out is to weigh it yourself. Obviously, this is impossible to know if you haven't bought a camper yet.

4) There is the gross vehicle weight rating (GVW aka GVWR). This is the absolute maximum that your camper should weigh. This is what the frame, axle, tires, etc. are all rated to carry.

5) The advertised "cargo carrying capacity" (CCC) is generally the GVWR minus the dry weight (e.g. #4 - #1). On the camper in question, this appears to be about 1,100 pounds.


Now, for your planning purposes - to figure out what your truck/SUV can pull and stay within ratings, you have to decide a realistic approach to where you'll land within these various weights. I'd be willing to bet my hat that the average camper has a yellow sticker (#2) is 200-400 pounds heaver than the dry weight (#1). And the typical camper may add approximately 1,000 pounds of stuff (#3) above the dry weight (#1) (some more, some less- all depends on the person and family). I think it would be prudent to plan on the GVWR of the camper for your math purposes since your CCC/#5 is fairly low. You'll likely come fairly close once you load up.


Finally, the last number that I haven't mentioned yet is called tongue or hitch weight. This is the amount of weight of #1 through #4 that pushes down on the rear of your vehicle. This is usually 10%-15% of the camper's actual loaded weight. Your tow vehicle has to be able to carry this and everything else in the vehicle without exceeding it's own GVWR. (Which is a whole 'nother, but related topic. )
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Old 10-07-2013, 03:01 PM   #9
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Thanks for info guys.

I know I need to look at gvwr and tw weights to even begin
I just wanted to find out which dry weight is accurate 3000lbs or 3400lbs because its 400lbs difference.

As dnm posted above his yellow sticker shows 3550lbs so looks like 3166lbs is dry weight.Now I know that 3500lbs is my base weight so from there I can start calculating all added stuff.
Got 2010 EcoBoost Flex with tow Package.( Class III 9622/4500/450 )
2011 1809S got gvwr 4600lbs and hitch rated 236lbs.

I will travel with wife and 5yrs daughter.
I can pull out third row to gain few extra lbs but I am still concerned that loaded
camper(no water) will be to tight with ford flex numbers.

any thoughts?

thanks
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Old 10-08-2013, 12:05 PM   #10
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My only thoughts are I wouldn't ever want to be close to or at the max tow rating of my vehicle ever again. You will have to be much more careful with speed, hills, braking. You are at the maximum recommended limit of that vehicle in probably ideal conditions.

I'm not saying you need a diesel to tow 4500 pounds, just don't ruin your daily driver to go camping.

Take that all with a grain of salt, i just downgraded a Duramax to an F150 with ecoboost to pull my 1809s.

m
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Old 10-08-2013, 12:45 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by sky2adam View Post
My only thoughts are I wouldn't ever want to be close to or at the max tow rating of my vehicle ever again. You will have to be much more careful with speed, hills, braking. You are at the maximum recommended limit of that vehicle in probably ideal conditions.

I'm not saying you need a diesel to tow 4500 pounds, just don't ruin your daily driver to go camping.

Take that all with a grain of salt, i just downgraded a Duramax to an F150 with ecoboost to pull my 1809s.

m
me either, done that - won't do it again. After one year towing at max. towing capacity, went with an midsize SUV with 7200# towing capacity - (over 3000 more pounds than needed) - much much better - but still have to watch the total weight in the SUV.
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