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Old 06-27-2015, 04:28 PM   #1
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2015 2703ws home and now trying to park

I need suggestions on making the ground clearance for my driveway. I have a steep driveway and the area that is hitting is the stabilizer jacks (power and I have put the foots in the flat position). Even if the jacks were totally removed from the back and scissor jacks used uninstalled, then the bumper would still hit.
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Old 06-27-2015, 04:50 PM   #2
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you can install drag wheels.....post 25

Trailer drags in driveway
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Old 06-27-2015, 05:10 PM   #3
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Can you back into the driveway at a 45 degree angle the straighten out once in the driveway. This will give you better clearance.
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Old 06-27-2015, 07:13 PM   #4
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I have the same problem with my trailer and I was going to put casters on the frame at th erear and after posting on here and getting warnings I checked with Forest River. They told me that they wouldn't recommend adding casters to a trailer with a light weight frame and if I did teh warranty on the frame would be void.

Please check with them before adding casters.
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Old 06-28-2015, 07:30 AM   #5
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I had this problem with my previous camper. I found that if I pulled in forward I would clear the driveway. Not sure why this worked vs backing it in but it gave me just enough clearance. My back yard was large enough to accommodate me pulling my truck through and turning around and I had to back the camper out when going out.
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Old 06-28-2015, 03:04 PM   #6
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put some lumber to raise the rear end enough to not scrape
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Old 06-28-2015, 03:11 PM   #7
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I had this issue when I bought my larger TT. My drive is about 40 deg. Every thing from digging and removing soil and rocks backing at diff angles, still drive was to steep. Always was hitting the rear jacks and my dump valves were coming close to the round curb I have to go over also.

I went to a local trailer service guy and told him the issue. He told me I can flip the axels and give you 3-6'' more clearance. I ended up with about
41/2" lift. problem solved for me. Also great for Colorado campgrounds as most of our camping is in national and blm lands kinda rough places.

It cost $300 to flip both and parts, while they were off I had repack and all brake part that needed it replaced for $175 more. Worth it to me for the rebuilds as my TT is a 2009 FR 26ft.
My TT is a bumper pull and I have a tight parking space I hook it to my front hitch and drive it in I can't believe how easy it is to drive a trailer in.
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Old 06-28-2015, 05:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomfmcs View Post
I had this issue when I bought my larger TT. My drive is about 40 deg. Every thing from digging and removing soil and rocks backing at diff angles, still drive was to steep. Always was hitting the rear jacks and my dump valves were coming close to the round curb I have to go over also.

I went to a local trailer service guy and told him the issue. He told me I can flip the axels and give you 3-6'' more clearance. I ended up with about
41/2" lift. problem solved for me. Also great for Colorado campgrounds as most of our camping is in national and blm lands kinda rough places.

It cost $300 to flip both and parts, while they were off I had repack and all brake part that needed it replaced for $175 more. Worth it to me for the rebuilds as my TT is a 2009 FR 26ft.
My TT is a bumper pull and I have a tight parking space I hook it to my front I hitch and drive it in I can't believe how easy it is to drive a trailer in.
Great idea but I believe the 2703ws like my Flagstaff 27rlws have torsion axles so you won't be able to flip them. You may be able to get a weld shop or dealer thet is creative to lift the trailer. The axles are attached to a subframe to the main frame.
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Old 06-28-2015, 06:53 PM   #9
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You may be able to get a weld shop or dealer that is creative to lift the trailer. The axles are attached to a subframe to the main frame.
If they're Dexter TorFlex Axles, Dexter makes a lift kit that will raise the trailer 2 5/8". The axles on my trailer are 4000 LB axles (#10) and I bought the kit locally for $123. I haven't installed it yet, waiting for a friend with the right tools and equipment to help me with it, and I'm not sure it will be enough to get me in the driveway but it may get the tires close enough to the driveway that I can then use some kind of ramp to get it raised the rest of the way to back it straight in. Right nnow I have to back in on an angle to get the wheels on of the trailer onto the driveway before it drags and then make a sharp turn to back it in straight. I hope that makes sense.

Here's the link to the page with the lift kits on it. Looking at your trailer on the FR web site, if you have dual axles you probably have 3500 LB (#9) axles. My axles had a sticker on them with the weight and part number and some other info, that should tell you which axles you have.

One other thing you can try is disconnecting the WD bars from your WD hitch before you back in, it might give you an inch or more of drop in the front of the trailer which should raise the rear.
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