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Old 03-29-2015, 06:23 PM   #1
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2015 rockwood signature ultra light 8289WS

Hi again. We have a small issue with our hot water faucet in our bathroom. It squeaks when turned on. I used wd 40 on all our squeaky closets and doors but it does nothing to eliminate the squeaky faucet. Hopefully it's a easy quick fix. I'd hate to think I'd have to replace it.
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:44 PM   #2
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Ours does the same. It's because they are of cheap plastic. Thinking of replacing it with a standard household type from HD or Lowe's. Many in here have done it. Some have had these cheap plastic factory ones fall apart on them while in use so for the price of a new, nicer household faucet, I will just replace.
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Old 03-29-2015, 11:28 PM   #3
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Easy to replace...you may need a simple adapter connector due to different sizes between RV fixtures and standard home fixtures. Available in any hardware store.
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:46 AM   #4
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I was told by my service tech that they squeak. There is no way to lube it to quit. I will be replacing mine
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Old 03-30-2015, 12:16 PM   #5
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Mine squeaked as well. It took it all apart and used some Plumber's Grease, it still squeaks sometimes. I've just lived with it for 2 years.
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Old 03-30-2015, 12:31 PM   #6
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It's a pretty easy replacement -- the plus is you can replace it with one of the brushed nickel faucets that will match all the cabinet hardware in your bathroom
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:41 PM   #7
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My solution is to make sure that I turn the bathroom faucets on either after I take my hearing aids out at night, or before I insert them in the morning.

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Old 03-30-2015, 01:50 PM   #8
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Shut the water off, remove the handles and pull the insides of the faucets out and apply a liberal coat of Danco silicone paste. Will last about 6-8 wks of constant use.

Get Danco at Lowes/HD/Walmart, etc.
Danco Perfect Match 88693 Silicone Grease-GREASE SILICONE - Walmart.com
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Old 03-30-2015, 03:30 PM   #9
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Please notice that OldCoot is referring to a "silicone" grease.

Applying a petroleum based lubricant such as WD40 "MAY" react with the o'rings, and can also be toxic.

I've seen o'ring dissolve when lubricated with a petroleum based product.

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Old 03-30-2015, 07:40 PM   #10
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Rodeo George. I am with you. Hearing aids out and all squeeks are gone.
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:58 PM   #11
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Easy to replace...you may need a simple adapter connector due to different sizes between RV fixtures and standard home fixtures. Available in any hardware store.
Please elaborate on the "adaptor connector" you are referring to. Is this an adaptor to connect the plumbing? Is this due to odd ball size tubing used in the RV?
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Old 03-31-2015, 04:48 PM   #12
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MOST fixtures in RVs use a standard 1/2" MPT (Male Pipe Thread). This is in fact the same fitting used on MOST home faucets.

The spacing on the connections are also pretty standard. In the bathroom they are normally 4" on center for the connections (Some older RVs did use shower fixtures which were 4-3/8" on center).

MOST kitchen faucets are 8" on center.

You should not have to modify or replace the fitting on the end of the PEX tubing, as that will be a 1/2" FPT (Female Pipe Thread) Swivel.

If you are replacing a faucet, it is a good idea to replace the PEX Cone Washer in the fitting on the PEX. They are soft and can form into a shape which does not make a good seal with the new faucet fittings.

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Old 04-01-2015, 10:56 AM   #13
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Replaced my bath faucet - no more problems!

Had the plastic bathroom tap in our 2014 85281KWS Flagstaff Ultra Lite 5th wheel leak because of poor design re internal cup seals so replaced it with a very similar Peerless faucet (but is brass internals) from Walmart (about $29 US). Everything fit perfectly as stated by others. However, because the plastic fitting and cone seal inside were a bit ragged from tightening by dealer and self to stop earlier connection leaks I decided to convert to the standard home style braided metal shieleded connector hoses with metal fittings and just cut the pex back the appropriate length and installed a hose barb fitting with the braid flex fitting selected to fit the hose barb threaded end and then a hose clamp on the pex to secure the hose barb. This has provided a leak free solid system that has not had further issue. I'm thinking that down the road I may have to replace the plastic faucet in the kitchen too but so far, so good on that one!
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Old 04-01-2015, 11:11 AM   #14
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Just a quick note on jz5w63's posting.

Using hose clamp type fittings on PEX tubing is definitely not recommended. While some people (jz5w63 for example) have success using them, many experience leaks.

The PEX does not compress sufficiently to make a hose clamp fitting secure. IMHO, far better to use either a "Flair It" fitting, or a newer "Shark Bite" fitting on PEX.

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Old 04-01-2015, 11:53 AM   #15
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Agree with Rodeo George re Shark Bite but I had to do this work on the fly without my home work shop at hand or a retailer handy (other than Walmart) with all the good stuff. However, on my trailer the hot water feed line is red colored Pex and the cold water is white braided vinyl tubing. Indeed the Pex was very hard/tough and I had to cut it with a hacksaw blade but the hose barb litterally was such a close fit that I had to insert it with the help of some soap solution and a hammer so it did not take much from the hose clamp to secure it. The cold water line was much more compressible and suited to the hose clamp. On another note I am not sure if the stuff FR used for the hot water line is really standard Pex. I know the Pex-like stuff in our Hunter (US) sailboat is not standard as the Shark Bite fitting I bought to modify the installation did not fit and I found out the stuff used was actually metric plastic tubing/piping. Didn't actually check the diameter of the red "Pex" in the trailer to see if compatible with Shark or Gator Bite fittings. Anyway, the installation is still working perfectly without issue. Thanks for your input. If anyone else is going this route you may want to try what RG suggests but check your hoses carefully first.
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Old 04-01-2015, 12:22 PM   #16
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Surprised to hear that FR is using the soft braided tubing for the cold water lines. Well, maybe not too surprised, as that probably results in a considerable savings for them when you add up the amount of cold tubing in an RV, and multiply that by the number of RVs manufactured.

I have a 2014 8289WS, and it has PEX for the cold as well as the hot.

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Old 04-02-2015, 09:54 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Please elaborate on the "adaptor connector" you are referring to. Is this an adaptor to connect the plumbing? Is this due to odd ball size tubing used in the RV?
When I replaced my kitchen sink faucet, the connection on the new fixture was not 1/2", I forget now, but I think it may have been slightly larger. The PEX female connection (1/2") required an adapter to accommodate the slight larger fixture connection.
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