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Old 06-26-2019, 07:44 PM   #1
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2017 Rockwood Mini Lite 2506S

I have a 2017 (purchased 8-2016) 2506S mini lite. Although I like the storage & construction of Rockwood/Flagstaff I do have issues with a few things:

First one is my fault. When the slide is in you don't have access to the bathroom.
Next, the water tank at the very back of the trailer? And not strong enough to hold a full tank of water? I know, you shouldn't travel with a full tank. But mine was ripping loose and that is very bad engineering.
The friction hinge on the door has lost it's friction after 3 years so it slams shut in any wind. And you have no way to secure it open, bungees I guess.
I'm sorry, I just don't like electric awnings. I'm just waiting for mine to quit, when it's extended of course.
And last, if my truck & trailer are level I can't fully open the tail gate on my truck. How does that get by the engineers?
But I am still mostly happy with their construction. I might be upgrading to a newer, different floor plan in the future.
Just throwing these comments out.
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Old 06-27-2019, 09:19 AM   #2
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Welcome to the forum its a great place to get your questions answered. the things you mentioned are relatively easy to fix with the exception of not getting to the bathroom with the slide in. use the search there are many articles on how to brace your water tank. With the door its easy to replace the gas cylinder or install a door holder screwed to the door and rig. the addition of awning poles makes the electric awning more usable I use them all the time. Correcting these minor shortcomings may make your current rig more pleasurable. I forgot to mention click on my callsign and read the article I wrote (with pictures) on turning your powered tongue jack so the tailgate will not hit it.
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Old 06-27-2019, 09:30 AM   #3
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Welcome to the forum !!

I think its total nonsense that its not recommended to travel with a full fresh water tank . What are the boondockers supposed to do ? I travel with mine full every time we go somewhere . I DONT CAMP IN PARKING LOTS lol
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Old 06-27-2019, 09:32 AM   #4
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Maybe I'm wrong, but I dont think there is a single "bumper pull" travel trailer out there that allows you to open the tailgate fully when you are hooked up. Perhaps there are some that I dont know about? But, some people have found a solution. I have seen some people rotate their tongue jack, so that the "front" of the jack is facing the side (typically whichever side the user spends more time when hooking/unhooking). And that rotation of the jack creates just enough space to open the tailgate all the way.
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Old 06-27-2019, 09:51 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Semperfi24 View Post
Maybe I'm wrong, but I dont think there is a single "bumper pull" travel trailer out there that allows you to open the tailgate fully when you are hooked up. Perhaps there are some that I dont know about? But, some people have found a solution. I have seen some people rotate their tongue jack, so that the "front" of the jack is facing the side (typically whichever side the user spends more time when hooking/unhooking). And that rotation of the jack creates just enough space to open the tailgate all the way.
I can open mine but my trucks lifted a little. I think it depends on tongue length and hitch length . Seems like a half an inch all most people would to open the tailgate.
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Old 06-27-2019, 10:00 AM   #6
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I gained about an inch when I turned my jack to the side, my tailgate clears by about 5/8 inch now as long as I'm straight with the trailer.
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Old 06-27-2019, 12:58 PM   #7
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This will solved your tail gate problem..

https://www.amazon.com/Draw-Tite-803...ct_top?ie=UTF8

Also, to prevent damage to the fresh water tank "supports", don't over fill your tank by leaving the hose stuck into the inlet opening. I damaged mine 2506S this way.. The vent hose system is not quite large enough to handle the excess pressure during an overfill.. Should be no problem traveling with a full tank.. do it all the time..
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Old 06-27-2019, 01:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintbonnie73 View Post
This will solved your tail gate problem..

https://www.amazon.com/Draw-Tite-803...ct_top?ie=UTF8

Also, to prevent damage to the fresh water tank "supports", don't over fill your tank by leaving the hose stuck into the inlet opening. I damaged mine 2506S this way.. The vent hose system is not quite large enough to handle the excess pressure during an overfill.. Should be no problem traveling with a full tank.. do it all the time..
That won't work with a WDH.
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Old 06-27-2019, 01:43 PM   #9
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Expectations. Perhaps it's time for a new perspective. This is intended to be a bit tongue-in-cheek.

1. Reinforce the fresh tank. This is not unique to your rig. Estimating 40 gallons of water in a full tank, and water at 8.3 pounds/gallon, that's 332 pounds. Poor engineering? Perhaps. That's how most are done regardless. I had to reinforce the tank on my PUP. See photo.

I think the expectation from the factory is that MANY, if not most, RV owners go to parks with hookups and paved/or well-maintained roads. They also expect that you will NOT transport water hundreds of miles, but that you'll fill your tank at or near your destination. If you really plan to boondock (which is all I do), you'll need to do a number of mods to your RV to make it worthy.

Frankly, this is little different than buying a pedestrian model Jeep Wrangler. You don't attack the Rubicon trail or Moab in a stock Sahara model. You either buy the Rubicon model or you modify your cheaper Jeep. And that includes: lift kit, Dana axles, locker wheels, bigger tires, transmission cooler, skid plates, and on and on.

With an RV, if you're gonna boondock, it's likely you'll need to lift it, reinforce a number of things, including the fresh tank, make sure your stairs are out of harm's way, make sure your dump valves and plumbing are tucked away, and so on.

If you want a box-stock RV that's ready for dispersed camping, you're gonna pay triple what you paid for your rig. I lifted my PUP, reinforced the fresh tank, equipped it with lots of leveling materials (wedges, blocks, etc.), bought a good ladder, added solar and a genny, and carry extra propane to run the fridge and furnace in cold mountain air. I also carry a good compressor so I can soften the tires on rough terrain and reinflate them when I return to civilization...just as the Jeep guys do when they are doing serious offroading.

Don't plan to take a Toyota Highlander over primitive mountain passes. Your RV is more like a Highlander than a Jeep Rubicon.


2. The conflict between a TV tailgate and tongue jack is also common. I deal with this on my PUP. You can get a longer ball mount, but that gives the tongue weight more leverage on your TV's rear suspension. I saw someone do this and stole the idea. I use a PFD to buffer the tongue jack when I open the tailgate while hitched.
It opens about half way or more, and this lets me retrieve anything I can reasonably lift....including my 2KW generator, chairs, coolers, etc.
Of course, a bit of planning can eliminate that need. I usually only need to access the bed of the TV when unhitched.

3. Buy a new door hinge. In two months, your rig will be 4 years old. Everything needs repairs. Things wear out. Or buy and install one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Pack-T-Style-...66480014&psc=1 $8 bucks.

4. As for your awning....as the owner of a PUP, I'd give my right arm for an electric awning. A more important concern about awnings is protecting them from UV damage when stored. My 2014 rig's awning was disintegrating after about 3 years. I brought it to a boat canvas shop and got it repaired for $139.00.

5. I have no sympathy for you with the bathroom being blocked when the slide is in. I have a PUP. Think about it. That's why god invented trees and gas stations...and that button one must push to deploy the slide. (My dinette slide is manual.) Sorry/Not Sorry.

You have a rather elegant (Mini Lites are very nice) home on wheels for which you paid a pittance....used. I once was very upset at the flaws in my $16,000 (new) PUP. But I paid $10K more than that for my RAV 4 in 2004 (new) and paid $20K for my TV used (a bargain in 2008 when gas was $4/gallon). My home in a remote Rocky Mountain location (in 2009, bank owned and in need of lots of work, and too far to commute to Denver reasonably) cost 10X the cost of my RV and I've since poured another $100K into it.

I have since adjusted my expectations and realize that my home on wheels is tortured every time I drag is somewhere, yet it's heated, has a bathroom, oven, running water, a king and queen beds, can be off the grid for as long as the black tank has capacity, and can locate on a lake shore or a mountain ridge or far back into the woods....with little complaint. I modified it, and it can go almost anywhere there's a two-track.

Relax. Enjoy. If you want an Airstream equivalent to your Mini Lite, buy one. But bring $80K.


PS. Buy new tires before you regret it....unless your rig already has them. Get the brakes and wheel bearings serviced professionally. Tires are shot after 5 years no matter what they look like.
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