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Old 09-20-2015, 09:08 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by roaddiva View Post
I got the last one of this model :-(
One can only hope for a easy quick fix.
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:11 PM   #22
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BTW: The start angle of the particular axles you have is printed on the label on the axle - its after 'SA:' on the line above the large-font numbers. Mine is '22DT' which stands for 22 down (and they're almost 0 degrees sitting in the driveway with no food, water or clothing).

Maybe the OP had the wrong axles installed at the factory... wouldn't be the first time.

Roaddiva: assuming you do have Torflex axles, which is kinda what it looks like judging by the square axle tube, what is the start angle printed on the label? That could be a good place to start.
Lable says it is a Dexter 3500 and it also says 22DT
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:14 PM   #23
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regardless of what axle you got, i would not tow this trailer ten feet with that kinda problem going on. maybe call a flatbed tow truck and have it dropped back to the seller.
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:32 PM   #24
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Another thing that may get you out of bind until you can get it back to dealer is to look at camper hooked up. I think this cutting is coming from the rear of rear tire. If the front of camper is above level this will cause much less clearance behind rear tire. If front is low the clearance behind tire will be more. The tires move a bunch when you change how parallel the frame is to ground. Just suggestion you may look at.
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Old 09-20-2015, 10:01 PM   #25
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Bought my 2016 2604ws, drove it 3 hrs to my sisters place. When I go to open the slide it makes a bad noise. Upon investigation we find this....look at the pictures, sliced my tire and copper piece dragged across tire. I am told it may need adjustment or wrong tire size??
Any body have this happen?





You said that when you tried to open your slide, it made a bad noise. Was that plated square piece in contact with the tire at that moment? In the pictures it appears that it is about an inch from the tire. One good bounce could have produced a blowout. We had a 2000 2602 with torsion axles. The tires were on the small size so there would be clearance.
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Old 09-20-2015, 10:04 PM   #26
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No the noise was that copper piece behind with the bent edge, the edge was dragging over the tire.
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Old 09-20-2015, 10:12 PM   #27
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I missed the bent metal part, but see it now. So the entire end of the pictured assembly was in close proximity/contact with the tire! I'm amazed the tire lasted as long as it did! You are very fortunate.
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Old 09-21-2015, 12:41 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by roaddiva View Post
Lable says it is a Dexter 3500 and it also says 22DT
And what angle are the spindle arms with respect to the axle tube (i.e. are the spindles above or below the axle tube)? According to the diagram, the spindle arm of the 22down axle should be no higher than horizontal under full load. Unless you loaded it to the gills when you picked it up, you should have been no where near to the fully loaded (on the wheels) weight of 7000 lbs. Notice how the GVWR of your trailer (7714) minus the 714 tongue weight magically matches the sum of the rated load capacity of the axles? That's no accident, its how its calculated.

It would take quite a nose-high, virtually unmanageable, tow to put so much weight on the rear tires to deflect them into the metalwork - the Dexter documentation I referenced said there should be 3 inches of extra bump clearance under static full-load conditions. That doesn't look even close to 3" in the first picture and I bet you were unhitched. Were those pictures taken with the trailer approximately level on level ground?

That 'copper' piece is called the stop can (not copper - that's just the plating) and is what stops the gear train from pulling the slide actuator too far back into the frame. It stalls the gear train and makes that ratcheting noise like the variable torque clutch on your cordless drill that tells you that you really should let go of the retract switch now. It shouldn't slide across the tread either. The only way I can think of that the stop can could drag across the tire when opening a slide is if the trailer is level while parked on an extreme grade. Of course the other way is that the slide actuator shouldn't have been located at that place in the frame in the first place.
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Old 09-21-2015, 02:08 AM   #29
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Of course the other way is that the slide actuator shouldn't have been located at that place in the frame in the first place.
Ooooo, that's a wicked thought...

The actuator only pushes out on the tab at the end of the slide support on one end. That slide support has that gear rack on it and a pinion gear on a shaft transfers the motion to another pinion gear that moves a rack on the bottom of the undriven support arm to keep them synchronized. Is there a round hole in the frame where the actuator could go through and bolt to the tab on the undriven arm?

If so, maybe some rookie on the line installed the actuator on the wrong end of the slide. These things are put together on the frame as the unit is going down the line and there's probably nothing that would mechanically prevent it from being put together like that.

Can someone else with the same unit verify whether the actuator is at the back end of the slide (like the OP) or the front end?

Weird what you think of at 2 in the morning.

On edit... nevermind (said in my best Roseanne Rosannadanna voice)... still wouldn't explain why the tab would be in a position to interfere with the tire even without the actuator bolted to it. Just clutching at straws to explain a really messed-up situation. Maybe you shouldn't post weird thoughts at 2 in the morning.
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Old 09-21-2015, 11:01 PM   #30
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Here is what it looks like with 14" tires:
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