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Old 07-30-2016, 06:11 PM   #11
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My 15kbtu draws about 15 amps starting and 8 running.
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Old 07-30-2016, 06:30 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by bmbdcj View Post
Hopefully this won't be a "real" dumb question. We recently purchased a Rockwood 8328BS with 2 a/c's and 50 amp service. If we are staying where only 30 amp is available can we still run everything, including both a/c's or will we need to run 1 a/c at a time all the while keeping the water heater on gas and not electric.
Thanks in advance!
I'm guessing, based on a trip to Canada that we recently completed. Most of the CGs that we stayed in had only 30 amp service. Run only one a/c at a time, but you can leave your water heater on electric and you should be fine.
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Old 07-30-2016, 06:58 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Tony Zornik View Post
Thanks to TomRobb1161 for posting current draw for various appliances and devices. Those are helpful. I think that on the load list, the 12k btu AC (about 3,500 watt) is listed as drawing 15 amps.

However, I am thinking that 15 amps would be the correct load draw at 220v, but that at 120v the draw would be 30 amps for a 12K btu unit, and about 37 amps for a 15k btu (about 4,400 watt) unit.

Our Wildwood TL is equipped with a 12k btu unit, so we have (2) 2000 watt generator/inverters capable of operating in tandem to adequately and safely provide the 3,500 watts we need for our AC and other loads. These two generator/inverters are quiet and light, only about 43# apiece. These are the Yamaha EF2000iSv2 which provide pure sine wave current and voltage, the equivalent quality of commercial power.
Nothing in most any RV is set up for 220/240 volts. They do make some stuff on higher end models (usually clothes dryers) that use it, but it's the exception not the rule. You A/C's are going to be 120 volt. You'll probably also notice if you open up your RV's electric distribution panel inside the RV, that the AC's are on dedicated 120 volt single pole 20 amp breakers.



This formula may help in figuring out what you can use. Usually, members with 30 amp RV's already are aware of what they can run at the same time (and what must be turned off) in order to not trip circuit breakers. It's called selective use.

Watts = voltage X amps

or amps = watts/volts

EX : 15 amps = 1800 watts/120 volts

Also these links may help better explain exactly what a 50 amp 120/240 volt split phase RV service is, as many people don't fully understand how it works in relation to RV's.....and how it is all 120 volts. Many people don't realize that a 50 amp 120/240 volt split phase service is capable of providing a total of 100 amps of 120 volt power. It's all part of the learning curve.

Electrical Tutorial - Chapter 3 - 30 Amp versus 50 Amp

AC Electricity

RV Electric
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Old 07-30-2016, 07:04 PM   #14
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Only one AC, like other have said, but you should have no problems with running anything else. My other unit had 30 amp and could run 15k AC, wh, refer, and microwave with no issues.


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Old 07-30-2016, 07:13 PM   #15
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I fired mine up on 30A this week just to see how it would perform before I hooked back up to 50A. I ran both AC's ( one 15K and one 13.5K ) and nothing else for about half an hour. My EMS read 27A @ 110V for nearly the whole time. So....yes, it is definitely doable, but I'd recommend an EMS to keep the voltage from dropping too far.
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Old 07-30-2016, 11:19 PM   #16
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It's really amazing how these RV'ers can run an A/C, 15 amps, microwave, 12.8 amps, electric water heater, 12.5 amps - total 40.3 amps on a 30 amp circuit, plus all the other parasite draws without any problems.
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Old 07-31-2016, 07:33 AM   #17
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Don't forget you can also turn your refigerator to gas also
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Old 07-31-2016, 07:52 AM   #18
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It's really amazing how these RV'ers can run an A/C, 15 amps, microwave, 12.8 amps, electric water heater, 12.5 amps - total 40.3 amps on a 30 amp circuit, plus all the other parasite draws without any problems.
I figure it must be some kind of new math...

I KNOW for a fact that with my fridge, converter and A/C going the microwave WILL trip the circuit. So we just turn the A/C off when we want to use the microwave. I usually brew my coffee outside on a separate 20 amp cord.

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Old 07-31-2016, 08:27 AM   #19
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50 amp versus 30 amp

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Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
I figure it must be some kind of new math...





Aaron

Must be a miracle but I never had a problem

Keep in mind the wh doesn't constantly draw max amps. Once heated up the amp draw is trimmed back just to maintain temp. I suspect the same is true for refer.

Guess I've had two miracle trailers with no issues.




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Old 07-31-2016, 08:40 AM   #20
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I figure it must be some kind of new math...



Aaron
My report is not based on math of any kind... new or old. My report is based on observable fact. I have never tripped a breaker, inside or out, when running my 50a trailer on 30a. I never turn on the propane side of my water heater. I never run the fridge on propane except when on the road. Adding the total amp draw of these appliances proves little since, as Jones implied, all these units seldom run full draw simultaneously.
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