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Old 03-28-2013, 04:15 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by RodeoGeorge View Post
Pictures relating to this modification can be found here:

Forest River Forums - RodeoGeorge's Album: Sub Woofer blocked by panel

The panel in the bottom of the TV Cabinet is installed right in front of the Sub Woofer, muffling the output of the Sub Woofer.

To solve this, loosen the panel, which is mounted to the floor with two screws through the 1X1 to which the panel is stapled.

Measure and mark the panel where it meets the Sub Woofer enclosure (the left side of the Sub Woofer enclosure).

Remove the panel, and cut it where marked.

The location of the screws that mounted the panel to the floor was such that only one screw remained in the 1X1. I drilled two new holes in the 1X1 so that I could reinstall it with two screws.

Place the cut panel in place to the left of the Sub Woofer enclosure, and mount it to the floor.

If you expose the Sub Woofer in this manner, some sort of grille should be placed in front of the Sub Woofer Speaker. I found some black aluminum grill at Lowes and Home Depot that will work.

The removed section of panel works perfect as a wall for the "Under Microwave Storage" covered in another post.

RodeoGeorge
This is pretty wild RodeoGeorge. I have the same setup except there is a devider between the cabinet on the left and the area where the sub woofer is. You can see the sub woofer in mine similar to how yours is now.

Looks like someone goofed on the assembly line.

Jim
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:02 AM   #12
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Trojan Battery Installation

Pictures are in my Miscellaneous Mod Album:

Forest River Forums - RodeoGeorge's Album: Miscellaneous Mods

I replaced the OEM Batteries with Trojan SCS225 12V Batteries. These are 130 Amp Hour Batteries, so with the pair I have 260 Amp Hours available.

While at it, I also rewired the 12V circuits in the front battery compartment, and installed a Battery Disconnect Switch.

I fabricated the Battery Box Vents from excess Central Vacuum hose that I had available.

I also installed the JWP Quik-Fill battery water kit. Now it's just a few pumps the first of each month to ensure the batteries are topped off.


RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:03 AM   #13
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Storage Compartment Lighting

Pictures are in my Miscellaneous Mod Album:

Forest River Forums - RodeoGeorge's Album: Miscellaneous Mods

I have never liked the limited lighting in the Thru-Storage. The single OEM Light on the right side sheds little to no light on the left side. And when I do need light, it seems that I'm always on the left side of the RV, and have to walk around to the right side to turn that light on.

I had some White LED Strip lighting laying around, and decided a good use would be inside the storage area. I attached two strips in the storage area to floor joists located about 1/3 of the way from each side of the storage area.

I then wired two Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) switches to make a two way circuit. You can PM me if you want to know how to wire the switches. I mounted a switch on each side of the storage area to the rear wall, and powered the LED Lights from the same circuit that I installed for the RF Awning Remote and Awning LED Lights.

You can power the LED Lights with the 12V that supplies the existing OEM Light.

The pictures in the my Miscellaneous Mods Album speak for themselves.


RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:09 AM   #14
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Ultra Fab Eliminator Stabilizer Installation

Pictures are in my Miscellaneous Mod Album:

Forest River Forums - RodeoGeorge's Album: Miscellaneous Mods

The installation went smoother than I anticipated. About 4 hours, but that included a lot of "measure twice, drill once".

The front stabilizers that run toward the rear of the RV wound up mounting 30" to the rear of the landing gear legs. This measurement places them beneath the under storage doors on each side. Inside the storage doors there is a black vinyl insert on each side which, when removed, permits access to the upper side of the frame lip to which I attached the mounts. This permitted a much more solid installation than using the self tapping screws provided, as washers and nylock nuts could be used.

The front stabilizers that run toward the center of the RV were mounted at the very front of the front storage floor. This is where the metal floor material bends up, providing a solid mount point. There is a vinyl skirt on the front below the storage door that wraps under the floor. It is about 3/8" below the floor, so I inserted two stiffener spacers between the vinyl and the floor to prevent pulling the vinyl up to the floor when the eye mounts were tightened. I also used a stiffener on the inside of the storage compartment for added strength.

The installation instruction show the rear stabilizers running toward the center rear of the RV. This, in my opinion would provide good side-to-side stability, however the design of the power rear stabilizers already provides good side-to-side stability. For that reason, I mounted mine going forward to provide better front-to-back stability. The frame is readily accessible through the slide out areas. I used a stiffener above and below the mounting points, with the eye bolt through one hole and a bolt through the second hole. A Slide Out mechanism assembly is located on the left side under the Slide Out that required the threads on the eye bolt to shortened (hack sawed off about 1") to clear the mechanism. You can see the original length of the eye bolt on the right rear picture.

Pleased with the stability provided by the Eliminators. Still have to get the wife to lay in bed while I walk around to pass the final "test".

RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:11 AM   #15
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Step Light Enhancement

Pictures are in my Miscellaneous Mod Album:

Forest River Forums - RodeoGeorge's Album: Miscellaneous Mods

I had some single color (White) LED Strips laying around. The wife mentioned that the OEM Step Light shed very little light on the steps for the dogs. This mod was a snap.

Unscrewed the existing Step Light, drilled a small hole in the right side of the step well and fished a pair of wires through the hole and out the existing step light hole.

Connected the wires to the existing Step Light wires, through a 1 Amp fuse. Replaced the OEM Step Light.

Connected the wires to the LED Strip (observe polarity) and attached the LED Strip to the back of the step well using the 3M adhesive on the back of the LED Strip. Applied silicone to the ends, and one dab in the middle of the LED Strip.

Done deal.

RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:25 AM   #16
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Rear (Slide Out) Awning Remote Installation

Picture of the switches is located here:

Forest River Forums - RodeoGeorge's Album: Front & Rear Awning Remote Installation

Sorry that I did not get pictures of the actual installation, but it went so fast that it was finished when I thought about the camera. I think the write up on the procedure will provide sufficient detail.

Find the fuse that controls the Antenna Amplifier Power Supply and Slide Out Awning, and remove the fuse.

On the 8289WS this mod is simple, because all circuitry required is accessible through the opening that the Stereo is mounted in.

Remove Stereo outer bezel by slowly prying it from the stereo unit itself. Work around the bezel, being sure to not bend it more than required, as it could crack. When the bezel is off, you will see the mounting screws for the stereo (Mine were two at the top, and two at the bottom). Remove the screws and slide the stereo out of the opening. I opened the door below the stereo and set it in that opening. The wires were long enough to do this.

Next remove the existing OEM Awning Switch, and pull it and the wire out a bit. Make note (a drawing) of how the wires are attached to the switch. On mine, the red/white pair are the input power to the switch. If you pull on the wire a bit, you can find where they come down into the space behind the Stereo. They attach to the power input for the TV Amplifier Power Supply, and a green/white pair leaves the power supply and goes down to the wire bundle behind the Sub Woofer. Just a FYI and not required for this mod.

I drilled a hole below and slightly to the right of the OEM Awning Switch to mount a Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) switch that will select either the OEM Awning Control or the RF Remote. I used a DPDT switch with a center off position, but this is not a requirement. Picture of the location is in the Album link listed above. I did not mount the switch until all the wires were connected, and did all the wiring with the switch outside the wall.

Make a pair of jumper wires about 12" long with female spade lugs on each end. Remove the second pair of wires (NOT the Power Input Wires, mine were a black/white pair) from the OEM Awning Switch, and attach them to the center contacts of the Local/Remote DPDT switch. These are the wires that run to the Awning motor. Use the jumper wires you made to a attach one side of the DPDT switch to the now vacant terminals on the OEM Awning switch.

Make a second pair of jumper wires about 30" long with female spade lugs on one end. Mark the other end "Motor Control". Thread the wire through the hole that the OEM Awning Switch was mounted in, down to the area behind the Stereo. Attach the spade lugs to the remaining set of contacts on the DPDT switch.

At this point, you can test the operation of the OEM Awning operation by replacing the fuse in the power panel, selecting the OEM switch with the DPDT switch, and operate the awning with the OEM Awning Switch. This will verify that the wiring of the DPDT switch is correct.

Remove the fuse for the circuit after verification.

Drill a hole to the right of the OEM Antenna switch to mount a Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) switch to control power to the RF Remote unit. Again, I did not mount the switch until it was wired.

Make a third pair of jumper wires about 30" long with female spade lugs on one end. Mark the other end "RF Power Switch" Attach the third pair of wires (the end with the female spade lugs) to the SPST power switch. Thread the wire through the hole that the OEM Awning Switch was mounted in, down to the area behind the Stereo.

Now reach up through the Stereo opening, push the SPST switch through the OEM Awning switch opening, and mount it into the hole to the right of the OEM Antenna switch.

Next reach up through the Stereo opening, push the DPDT switch with the six wires attached through the OEM Awning switch opening, and mount it into the hole below and to the right of the OEM Awning switch.

Next remount the OEM Awning Switch.

The remainder of the installation is done in the Stereo opening.

Splice one of the "RF Power Switch" wires into the red wire (attached to the Antenna Amplifier Power Supply) that runs up to the OEM Awning switch through a 2 Amp fuse. I used a wire tap to do this. The second "RF Power Switch" wire connects to the RED wire on the RF Remote.

Splice the Black wire on the RF Remote to the white wire that is paired up with the red wire. This is the ground for the RF Remote.

Splice one of the "Motor Control" wires to the blue wire on the RF Remote.

Splice the other "Motor Control" wire to the yellow wire on the RF Remote.

I then just pushed the RF Remote to the back of the Stereo opening.
Replace the fuse in the power panel, and check the operation of the Awning using both the OEM Awning Switch by selecting the OEM Switch with the DPDT switch, and then the RF Remote by selecting the RF Remote with the DPDT switch and turning the power on with the SPST RF Remote Power Switch.

If all function properly, reinstall the Stereo. Check the three wiring harness plugs on the rear of the Stereo to ensure that they did not pull out when you removed the Stereo. After I reinstalled my stereo, the outside and bedroom speakers did not work, and I found that one of the connectors had pulled out of the Stereo.

RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:48 AM   #17
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Better Stereo System Antenna - Built In

I have my RV parked inside a Steel Storage Building, and I realize that has a major impact on FM Radio Reception. Even taking that into consideration, I was displeased with the reception of the Genesis GT-3.0.

When I used the Auto Tune function, the FM radio would receive only 3 very weak (noisy) stations, and I could not receive the Weather Broadcasts.

The solution for better FM and Weather reception is built into the RV. The Off Air TV Antenna with Amplifier.

We do not have a TV in the bedroom, and do not use the outside Antenna Connection, so using one of these outputs from the TV Antenna for the Stereo was a logical idea.

On the rear of the TV Antenna Amplifier Power Supply there are three coax connections. One is the input from the roof antenna, the second is the input from the Cable Input jack on the outside of the RV, and the third is the output to the bedroom.

On my 8289WS, the output to the bedroom goes to a three way splitter, the outputs of which go to the Main TV, the bedroom TV jack, and the outside TV jack located in the storage compartment.

I identified the coax that goes to the bedroom jack. You could also use the coax that goes to the outside/storage compartment jack. Disconnected that coax and used a short piece of coax to connect the TV Antenna to the Stereo.

The difficult part is finding a Type F to Automobile Antenna Plug adapter. I have a box of various adapters (from Amateur Radio hobby) and was able to make an adapter with what I had on hand.

After connecting the TV Antenna to the Stereo, inside the steel building I was able to use the Auto Tune to find 9 solid FM stations, and I receive 2 Weather Broadcasts. This was with the Antenna Amplifier turned on. I received 5 Stations (no Weather) with the Antenna Amplifier turned off.

RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:17 AM   #18
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Where is the antenna amplifier located?
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:00 PM   #19
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The amplifier itself is in the head of the roof antenna. It is powered by 12V that goes up the center conductor of the coax to the roof antenna.

The Power Supply for the antenna amplifier is part of the wall plate that is in the recess under the TV on the left side. It is the plate with the small push button ON/OFF switch and a green light. It also has a Type F connector on it for a TV, as well as (in my case) the input Type F connector for the Satellite Receiver input (from the outside satellite connector at the left rear of the RV).

Behind this wall plate there is a small circuit board with the Power Supply itself, and three more coax connectors (Antenna, Cable, and 2nd TV). The 2nd TV connector is normally for a TV in the bedroom.

Rockwood did not use the front connector on the plate for the main TV, but rather put a 3 way splitter on the 2nd TV connector on the back of the power supply and distributed the signal to the main TV through a coax that runs up behind the wall on which the main TV is mounted comes out a hole behind the TV and connects to the Antenna Input jack. The other two coax on the splitter go to the bedroom and a connector just inside the right storage compartment door (for connecting a TV outside).

Since I do not have a TV in the bedroom, and do not watch TV outside, I could have used either of these outputs from the splitter to supply a signal to the Stereo.

I did find a source to the Type F to Motorola (car antenna connector). The cable is 36" long, but can just be rolled up. Here's the link.

Motorola to F Connector 36'' Cable | 10TV110 | Distributed By MCM

Hope this helps.

RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodeoGeorge View Post
The amplifier itself is in the head of the roof antenna. It is powered by 12V that goes up the center conductor of the coax to the roof antenna.

The Power Supply for the antenna amplifier is part of the wall plate that is in the recess under the TV on the left side. It is the plate with the small push button ON/OFF switch and a green light. It also has a Type F connector on it for a TV, as well as (in my case) the input Type F connector for the Satellite Receiver input (from the outside satellite connector at the left rear of the RV).

Behind this wall plate there is a small circuit board with the Power Supply itself, and three more coax connectors (Antenna, Cable, and 2nd TV). The 2nd TV connector is normally for a TV in the bedroom.

Rockwood did not use the front connector on the plate for the main TV, but rather put a 3 way splitter on the 2nd TV connector on the back of the power supply and distributed the signal to the main TV through a coax that runs up behind the wall on which the main TV is mounted comes out a hole behind the TV and connects to the Antenna Input jack. The other two coax on the splitter go to the bedroom and a connector just inside the right storage compartment door (for connecting a TV outside).

Since I do not have a TV in the bedroom, and do not watch TV outside, I could have used either of these outputs from the splitter to supply a signal to the Stereo.

I did find a source to the Type F to Motorola (car antenna connector). The cable is 36" long, but can just be rolled up. Here's the link.

Motorola to F Connector 36'' Cable | 10TV110 | Distributed By MCM

Hope this helps.

RodeoGeorge
Thanks RodeoGeorge I now have 18 channels siting in my driveway.
Did not know that button was there.
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