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Old 03-18-2013, 03:13 PM   #1
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8289WS - Modifications

I will post information on the modifications that I make to my 8289WS in this thread.

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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:14 PM   #2
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Converter Replacement Considerations

I considered installing the PD-9260 in the battery compartment, placing it closer to the batteries to shorten the DC wire run. However, the original converter is tied into the DC Distribution Panel with AWG 4 wires, providing a larger conductor for current flow when the converter is in operation and the DC loads are actually running off the converter.

The +12V DC wire running from the batteries to the converter, via the DC Distribution Panel, is AWG 6. If the converter were installed near the batteries, all DC loads would run through this AWG 6 wire between the batteries and the Power Distribution Panel. Replacing the AWG 6 wire with a larger conductor, while not impossible, would be difficult with regards to routing the wire, and would add at least 10 feet to the load wiring.

So I decided to replace the WFCO 8955 by installing the Progressive Dynamics PD-9260 in the same physical location.

Discussion/instructions for installation are in the next post.

RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:18 PM   #3
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PD-9260 Converter Installation

ENSURE THAT YOU DISCONNECT THE AC POWER FROM THE RV, AND OPEN THE BATTERY DISCONNECT BEFORE PROCEEDING.

Pictures for this Mod are in this link.

Forest River Forums - RodeoGeorge's Album: PD-9260 Converter Installation.

In my 2013 8289WS, the OEM WFCO 8955 Converter was mounted to the floor in the space between the back wall of the Power Distribution Panel (PDP) area and the Furnace. To access the Converter, remove the four mounting screws for the PDP face plate and then remove the face plate by lifting up the face plate. There are two tabs at the top of the face plate that slide down into recesses in the PDP Bezel, so you must lift up and not pull straight out. Next remove the four screws that mount the PDP Bezel to the cutout opening. Slowly pull the PDP out. The main AC power input cable is very stiff, and I temporarily removed a cable tie at
the rear of the PDP area to provide more freedom for the main AC cable.

If you look through the space where the PDP installs you will see the converter mounted to the floor between the rear wall of the PDP area and the furnace. My OEM converter was mounted to the floor with two screws on the far side of the converter. A mirror will allow you to locate the screws, and then it is a braille operation to remove the two screws.

Once the screws are out, you can pull the OEM converter through the rear opening into the PDP area to disconnect the two large AWG 4 wires that tie the converter into the PDP DC fuse buss. Make note of the +12V and Negative wire colors (normally Black 12v, and White Negative/Ground).

Unplug the OEM converter AC power plug from the rear of the PDP, and then completely remove the OEM converter.

Reverse the procedure to install the replacement converter.

I also purchased the Charge Wizard Remote Pendant for use with the PD-9260. I considered mounting the Pendant to the wall on the side or top of the PDP, but decided with the Surge Protector Remote Display and the 2025RV Battery Monitor already mounted around the PDP, it would be a bit too much. Physically mounting the Pendant with the double stick tape behind the swing down PDP access door was not possible, as the Pendant is too thick to allow the access door to close. I found that the Pendant will fit very comfortably at the bottom of DC Fuse area between the fuses and the front panel. This also allows you to see the Pendant LED to check the mode of operation if you look closely though the smoke colored window.

While I had the PDP out, I also installed a Progressive Industries Surge Protector, and added a 20A Circuit Breaker to the PDP for a Central Vacuum. Ran the wire for the Vacuum back through the rear of the PDP area to the Furnace area where I'll install a receptacle. The discussion/instructions are in the next post in this thread.

RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:22 PM   #4
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Surge Protector Installation

ENSURE THAT YOU DISCONNECT THE AC POWER FROM THE RV, AND OPEN THE BATTERY DISCONNECT BEFORE PROCEEDING.

Installation of the Surge Protector (SP) is pretty straight forward. Pictures of the install are located here.

Forest River Forums - RodeoGeorge's Album: Surge Protector Installation

Removal of the Power Distribution Panel (PDP) was discussed in the previous post for installing the converter. Refer to that post on how to remove the PDP. If you are going to mount the Remote Display above the PDP, mark the wall where the upper edge of the PDP front panel meets the wall so that you will know where to drill the hole for the Remote Panel wire.

I removed the wall panel in the under storage to obtain more light in the area, and also because I'm also installing a Central Vacuum System and will need access to that area above the furnace. You do not need to remove the panel in the under storage to install the SP.

Remove the two AC input wires (Red and Black) from the 50A Main Circuit Breaker. The #2 Square head, and the flat tip slot on one of my circuit breakers was damaged when they installed the Main Circuit Breaker. I could not get that wire out, and had to cut the wire at the Circuit Breaker. I purchase a replacement at a local hardware store. Take the old breaker with you if you need to do this, to ensure that you obtain a Circuit Breaker that fits.

Next remove the White Neutral wire from the Neutral Buss in the PDP, and remove the bare Ground Wire from the Ground Buss. Loosen the cable retaining clamp on the rear of the PDP, and pull the input cable from the PDP. If you have temporarily removed the cable tie at the rear of the PDP area, you should have enough slack in the input power cable to pull it out the front of the PDP opening, allowing you to make the connections out in the open.

You will need about a two foot length of power cable to install between the output of the SP and the input to the PDP. I had a length of SOOW 6/4 cable available, and while working with the finer copper stranded wire was a bit difficult, the flexibility of the SOOW cable helped when re-installing the PDP.

Connect the RV power input cable to the SP as described in the SP instructions. I crimped, and then soldered the Ground wire to the provided Wire Lug, as it is difficult to get a good connection to the small ground wire by crimping alone.

Dress (strip) the wires for the output of the SP, install the current sensors on the Red and Black wires as described in the SP instructions ensuring that the arrows on the sensors are toward the SP contactor. After crimping, I also soldered the Ground Wire to the provided Wire Lug for the output cable. Instructions state that you should NOT solder or tin the AC and Neutral wires (Red, Black, and White). I stripped the output wires so that the input and output ground connection could all be made to one ground screw that was already present in the SP. Secure the input and output cable to the SP with the cable clamps that are pre-installed on the SP enclosure to absorb any stress on the cables.

Remove the two small Phillips screws on the plastic cover over the contactor, and check for any foreign matter in the contactor area per the instructions. Then replace the plastic cover on the contactor. Now install the cover on the SP.

Now you can install the output of the SP to the PDP. Strip and dress the wires so that they will reach the intended connections. Black and Red wires to the 50A Main Circuit Breaker. Ground to the Ground Buss, and the White wire to the Neutral Buss.

I attached the remote display, and applied power to the RV before physically installing the SP, to ensure that all worked as expected. After the test, REMOVE THE AC POWER FROM THE RV, and then install the surge protector inside the PDP area. I mounted the SP to the outside wall towards the rear of the PDP area. Replace the cable tie (if you removed it) for the original input power cable. I drilled a 1/2" hole on the line that I marked on the wall at the top of the PDP before removing the PDP. I drilled right on that line, as half of the hole can be behind the PDP front panel leaving enough room for the small cable once the cable connector is pushed through the hole. Once the PDP is re-installed, I mounted the Remote display above the PDP.

Done Deal!

RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 03-20-2013, 02:57 AM   #5
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TM-2025RV Installation

ENSURE THAT YOU DISCONNECT THE AC POWER FROM THE RV, AND OPEN THE BATTERY DISCONNECT BEFORE PROCEEDING.

Pictures relating to this modification can be found here:

Forest River Forums - RodeoGeorge's Album: TM-2025RV Installation

I installed the wiring for the Bogart Engineering Tri-Metric Model TM-2025RV at the same time I did the Surge Protector installation, as it made it easier to run the wires through the under storage between the front battery compartment and the wall on which the Power Distribution Panel (PDP) mounts.

If you are doing a separate TM-2025RV installation, you will have to pull out the PDP to run the required wires.

I used some two pair AWG 22 overhead telephone wire that I had on hand. It is very rugged, and probably an overkill, but it is routed suck that it does not show. Any four conductor wire with AWG 22 (good for up to a 110' run) conductors will do.

Start by physically mounting the box into which the TM-2025RV itself is mounted. Once the box is mounted, drill a hole through the rear of the box, continuing through the wall, large enough for the four conductor wire with it's insulation.

Next in the front battery compartment use a very small drill bit to test where the hole drilled from the battery compartment will come out in the under storage area. I drilled right next to the upright frame member about 6" down from the ceiling of the battery compartment. This placed the hole just below the aluminum framing in the under storage. CAUTION: as shown in the picture there are water lines in the area where the hole will come out. Drill carefully.

Feed the wire from the battery compartment, through the under storage, and over the rear wall (removed in the pictures) of the storage compartment. From here it can be routed over to the PDP area, and then fed through the hole drilled in the back of the TM-2025RV mounting box. Use cable clamps to prevent the wire from drooping down into the under storage area where it runs along the aluminum floor joist.

At the TM-2025RV mounting box, strip the wires and attach them to the G1, G2, SIG, and B1+ terminals of the TM-2025RV. If you are going to monitor a second Battery or a Solar Panel voltage, you will need to have a fifth wire and connect it to the B2+ terminal. Make note (write down) the colors of the wires attached to each terminal. You can install the TM-2025RV itself into the mounting box at this time.

At the battery compartment, mount the Shunt. I mounted the Shunt to the frame, since that location is both close to the batteries and the cable from the RV-2025RV. Ensure that the Kelvin Terminals (the screws to which the wires will attach) are located so that you can access them when attaching the wires.

I replaced the negative battery wire which ran from the battery to the chassis frame with a larger cable. I also relocated the point at which it connects the the frame to shorten the cable. The only cable connected to this side of the Shunt should be the cable that attaches to the frame.

Next strip and attach the wires from the TM-2025RV terminals G1 and G2, and attach both of the wires to the Kelvin Terminal on the side of the Shunt that attaches to the frame. I used wire lugs, and both crimped and soldered the wires to the lug, as it is easier than trying to wrap the two wires around the Kelvin Terminal. This is the only point at which the G1 and G2 wires should join.

Now strip and attach the SIG wire to Kelvin Terminal on the other side of the Shunt. This should be the side of the Shunt that will attach to the Negative Terminal of the batteries.

The fourth wire (B1+) will connect to +12 Volts. I connected this wire to the Battery side of the disconnect switch, so that the TM-2025RV has power at all times. This preserves any historical data in the TM-2025RV. The TM-2025RV has a very low power requirement of 32mA (.032 Amps) when the display is lit, and 16mA (.016 Amps) with the display off. So battery drain is minimal.

Next connect the Battery negative to the Shunt, and you're ready to program the TM-2025RV as described in the Installer and User Instruction.

RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 03-20-2013, 04:32 AM   #6
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Central Vacuum Installation

While disconnecting the 110V Input to the RV, and disconnecting the Battery "may" not be required to perform this mod, it is recommended that you do this in the event that a wire is nicked during the installation.

Pictures of this installation are located here:

Forest River Forums - RodeoGeorge's Album: Central Vacuum Installation

I found that a convenient location for the Central Vacuum unit is above the furnace, just inside the street side storage door. In this location it is easy to change the bag, and access the motor filter for cleaning. It also places the unit where the input hose duct can be routed to the area behind the steps without sharp bends, improving efficiency.

My initial thoughts were to mount the unit so that it was flush with the rear wall of the under storage area, and this can be done if two brackets are fabricated. However, if the existing frame for the rear wall is used as one of the mounting brackets, it results in a much more rigid installation. When the wall frame is used, the unit protrudes about four inches into the storage area, but it does not stick out into the storage door opening.

Measure from the ceiling of the storage area (actually the bottom of the floor above) to the top of the existing wall frame. Cut two pieces of aluminum angle that is the width of the cross piece angle longer than the measured distance. The angle piece for the right hanging bracket, which is installed on the far side of the floor joist due to the pipe on the near side, may have to be notched, as there is a floor register on the far side of the joist.

You can assemble the bracket (cross piece and two hanging supports) but before mounting the bracket it is easier to drill the mounting holes for the Vacuum in the cross piece.

On the Vacuum Unit, to fit it into the opening between the wall frame and the ceiling, I had to straighten the bottom mounting bracket tabs so that they were flush with the bottom of the unit. These four mounting points (two in front, two in rear) are 9-3/4" apart front to rear.

So if the front mounting tabs are bolted to the wall frame, the center of the rear mounting bracket needs to be 9-3/4" behind the center of the wall frame.

Without the rear mounting bracket installed, slide the unit in place between the wall frame and the ceiling, supporting the rear of the unit. I had to remove the storage area light attached to the ceiling to be able to put the unit in place. Determine how far from the side wall you want the unit. Mark the wall frame where the mounting tab holes are. Remove the unit, and drill the holes in the wall frame for the bolts that will secure the mounting tabs.

Now measure the distance from the wall to each of the two holes you just drilled, and drill two holes in the rear frame the same distance from the edge that will be next to the wall.

You can now install the rear mounting bracket, ensuring that it is 9-3/4" behind the wall frame (measuring on center).

Slide the Vacuum Unit into position, and bolt the unit to the wall frame and rear bracket. You can now attach the input duct hose, and route it with the least amount of bends to the area behind the steps leading to the bath/bedroom.

Now inside the RV, remove the return grille between the first and second step, to gain access to the rear of the riser panel on the left of the steps. Position the backplate for the vacuum hose plate, where you desire to mount the plate. Mark the top, bottom, and sides of bends in the backplate on the wall, and then cut out the square into which the backplate will fit (from the rear).

Cut the input duct hose to the proper length, and then assemble it to the backplate. Now route the switch wires (which are attached to the Vacuum unit) to the area behind the steps. I had to extend the wires, as they did not reach the point where the plate is mounted.

Run the switch wires through the upper opening in the backplate and insert them into the switch holes on the front bezel. Now hold the backplate in position, and mount the front bezel to the backing plate. The screws that were provided were not long enough to mount the front bezel, and I had to substitute longer screws due to the thickness of the riser.

You're finished with the inside work, and can replace the return grille.

Go back to the under storage area, plug the Vacuum Unit into the 110V AC receptacle that is on the front under storage area wall. Plug in the RV to shore power, and test the vacuum. Ensure that you have installed a bag in the vacuum, and you can use the vacuum to clean up the sawdust from cutting the step riser hole.

When I installed the Surge Protector (covered in an earlier post) I also added a 15 Amp Circuit Breaker to the Power Distribution Panel for the Central Vacuum. The Vacuum draws 5 Amps Average, and 11.3 Amps Peak. You can just plug the Vacuum into the receptacle in the under storage, but be aware of the load when vacuuming. You may have to turn of other items in the RV.

The final task is to cut the rear under storage wall to fit around the Vacuum, and a portion of the hose on the right side. I removed the staples that held the felt material to the back of the wall, and peeled the felt down the front enough to make the cuts. You can stand the wall at an angle against the wall frame and mark the Vacuum location, or you can measure twice and cut once. LOL. After you've cut the wall and checked for fit, trim the felt, glue it back in place, and staple the back side as it was when you started.

Install the wall, and you're done.

RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 03-20-2013, 05:31 AM   #7
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Front Awning Remote Installation

AS A SAFETY PRECAUTION, DISCONNECT THE BATTERIES WHEN PERFORMING THIS MODIFICATION

Pictures of the Front Awning Remote Installation can be found here:

Forest River Forums - RodeoGeorge's Album: Front Awning Remote Installation

I ran a new 12V DC line from the Power Distribution Panel, and put the
Remote on it's own fuse. I will also use this circuit when I install the LED strips under the Awning, so the circuit will have a dual purpose.
You can use the 12V DC that supplies the light in the under storage area if you do not want to run a separate circuit. In that case, skip the next paragraph and use the Black wire going to the light to obtain +12 Volts for the Remote.

To install a separate +12 Volt circuit, remove the Power Distribution Panel (PDP) front bezel. There are three unused fuse holders at the bottom of the +12 Volt Buss, and you can use anyone. Feed a wire through the rear opening of the PDP where the other +12 wires exit the PDP. Now the fun part. Fish that wire into the under storage area routing it above the furnace. Secure the wire to the ceiling with cable clamps to keep it off the furnace. Attach the end of the wire to a terminal to the right of vacant fuse.

DO NOT install a fuse at this time.

The motor wires for the front awning run just inside the under storage door along the ceiling. Mine were crimp connected to the wires that come down and into the RV from the motor. I cut the wires at the crimp connection, which left enough wire running up to the crimps to go to the Remote Box. I extended the Awning Motor wires with crimp butt connectors, adding enough wire to reach the Switch area. I used cable clamps to keep the wire extensions up at ceiling level.

I used two switches in the installation. A Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) switch to select either the OEM Awning Operation Switch inside the RV, or the Remote Box. The DPDT Switch that I used also has a Center OFF position, so I can completely disable the Awning if desired. The second switch is a Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) switch to turn the power off to the Remote Box. I did not measure the current draw of the Remote Box when only the receiver is in operation, but know that there will be NO battery drain with it turned off.

Wiring of the Remote Box is pretty straight forward. The original wires that were extended from the Awning Motor are attached to the center contacts of the DPDT Switch. The original wire that used to connect to the Awning Motor (the ones that you cut at the crimp connectors) attach to one side of the DPDT Switch. The Yellow and Blue wires from the Remote Box connect to the other side of the DPDT Switch.

Run whatever you are using for +12V (the new circuit wire from the PDP, or a wire tapped into the Black wire of the ceiling light) to one of the terminals on the SPST Switch. Attach the Remote Box Red wire to the other terminal of the SPST Switch. To obtain a Ground for the Remote Box, I crimped a spade lug on the Remote Box Black wire, and secured it to the frame with a self tapping screw above where the Remote Box is mounted.

I mounted the Remote Box to the rear under storage wall between the Central Vacuum and the wall, with the wires coming out of the Remote Box next to the wall. Having the Remote Box wires next to the wall permits the Green Remote Box Antenna wire to be run down the wall in the corner, giving it the best reception.

If you have run a new +12 Volt circuit for the Remote Box, install a fuse in the PDP for that circuit now.

Connect the batteries. Place the DPDT Switch in the OEM Awning Switch position, and test the operation of the Awning using the original Awning Switch inside the RV. Now select the Remote Box with the DPDT Switch, ensure that the SPST Switch is on to provide power to the Remote Box, and test the operation of the Awning using the Remote Fob.

After I have extended or retracted the Awning, I place the DPDT Switch in the center OFF position, and turn off the Remote Box with the SPST Switch to prevent activation of the Remote Box & Awning by any stray signals.

When you operate the Awning with the Remote Box, you can move around outside the RV to determine the distance you can get from the Remote Box. As you approach the limit, the Awning operation will stutter as the signal is lost.

RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:07 AM   #8
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AC Receptacle near table for computer

ENSURE THAT YOU DISCONNECT THE AC POWER FROM THE RV BEFORE PROCEEDING.

Pictures relating to this modification can be found here:

Forest River Forums - RodeoGeorge's Album: Receptacle near Table for Computer

The closest AC receptacle for anything placed on the table was in the left side of the TV cabinet. Running a power cord from the existing receptacle, besides looking terrible, also interfered with the chairs on the left side of the table.

My solution was to install an AC receptacle on the right side wall of the TV cabinet near the floor.

To accomplish this, remove the panel inside the lower doors of the TV Cabinet. The panel which also blocks the output of the Sub Woofer (See that mod for solution). Behind the panel is the Sub Woofer enclosure, which is mounted with two angle brackets. Remove the screws mounting the angle brackets to the floor and the right side wall. Move the Sub Woofer enclosure out of the way.

Behind the Sub Woofer enclosure you will find some DC wiring, the place where the Power Awning wire exits to the awning, the LP Hose for the outside BBQ, and the AC power cable that brings the AC into the Slideout.

The AC enters the Slideout, and immediately connects to a yellow/clear plug and jack. The clear plug then carries the AC through romex to the outside AC Receptacle. The romex also loops out of this receptacle and goes up into the TV cabinet to supply AC to the TV receptacle (behind the TV and to the receptacle inside the TV cabinet just to the right of the DVD Player.

I installed a junction box on the floor at a location where I could cut and feed both ends of the romex a short distance from the plug and jack. I then inserted a new length of romex that carries the AC to the new Receptacle. Wire nut the Ground, Neutral, and Hot wires from each of the three romex ends together (3 bare grounds together, 3 white neutrals together, 3 Black hoe leads together). Push the three sets of connections into the Junction Box and put the lid on the box.

Cut a hole in the right side wall of the TV cabinet in the location where you want the new receptacle. The right side wall has two panels, the inner and outer, with about 1" between the two walls, so when you cut the hole you will need to cut through both pieces of paneling.

Push the new length of romex through the hole, insert the wires into the new receptacle, and then mount the Receptacle into the wall.

Check the new receptacle with a circuit tester that ensures proper polarity and ground.

Replace the Sub Woofer enclosure.

Replace the panel in the lower storage area.

If you desire to eliminate the panel that sits right in front of the Sub Woofer, measure and mark the panel where it meets the left side of the Sub Woofer enclosure. Cut the panel at the mark. When I cut the panel, there was only one mounting screw left in the remaining section. I drilled new holes through the 1X1 and used two screws to re-mount the remaining section of panel.

If you expose the Sub Woofer in this manner, some sort of grille should be placed in front of the Sub Woofer Speaker. I found some black aluminum grill at Lowes and Home Depot that will work.


RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:18 AM   #9
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Remove Panel blocking the Sub Woofer

Pictures relating to this modification can be found here:

Forest River Forums - RodeoGeorge's Album: Sub Woofer blocked by panel

The panel in the bottom of the TV Cabinet is installed right in front of the Sub Woofer, muffling the output of the Sub Woofer.

To solve this, loosen the panel, which is mounted to the floor with two screws through the 1X1 to which the panel is stapled.

Measure and mark the panel where it meets the Sub Woofer enclosure (the left side of the Sub Woofer enclosure).

Remove the panel, and cut it where marked.

The location of the screws that mounted the panel to the floor was such that only one screw remained in the 1X1. I drilled two new holes in the 1X1 so that I could reinstall it with two screws.

Place the cut panel in place to the left of the Sub Woofer enclosure, and mount it to the floor.

If you expose the Sub Woofer in this manner, some sort of grille should be placed in front of the Sub Woofer Speaker. I found some black aluminum grill at Lowes and Home Depot that will work.

The removed section of panel works perfect as a wall for the "Under Microwave Storage" covered in another post.

RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:28 AM   #10
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Under Microwave Storage in lower cabinet

Pictures relating to this modification can be found here:

Forest River Forums - RodeoGeorge's Album: Under Microwave Storage in lower section


The lower portion of the cabinet below the Microwave as a panel on the left, and a "false" door on the right. I say false door, because on the handle (right) side of the door there is a single hinge which prevents the door from opening unless the hinge screws are removed.

There is some useful storage behind the door, providing that protection is provided for the plumbing at the rear of the Water Heater.

I used the piece of panel that I removed in the Sub Woofer mod to install a wall behind the Water Heater.

I then removed the hinge on the right side of the door, and installed a roller catch (see pictures).

I now have the ideal area to store the Central Vacuum hose and attachments. And the Central Vacuum inlet is just to the right of this cabinet on the second step riser.

RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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