A couple of other thoughts - how is the voltage where you are hooking up? A drop in voltage can cause problems and reduced cooling capacity. If you have a 30a service to your unit plug it into a splitter and use the 50a plug to hopefully limit voltage drop experienced in some 30a circuits in RV parks.
Freon does not wear out - it must leak out and to simply add freon without repairing the leak is kicking the can down the road.
This may help too: "This defect leads directly to a potential leak of refrigerant and subsequent loss of cooling power within the unit. Since the blower motor, fan and compressor will still operate, the only way to tell if your unit has leaked refrigerant if to check the output temperature at the cold air exhaust and compare that reading to the ambient air temperature measured at the return air grill.
Both of these measurements are to be taken INSIDE the trailer with the unit running for at least 10-15 minutes. If you are not seeing an 18-22ºF drop in the measured temperature between the return air grill and the cold air exhaust (regardless of the temperature outside the trailer), you have probably experienced a refrigerant leak in the unit."
I agree that units with 3 slides that will be used in summer conditions should probably have 2 a/c. The extra volume is just too great to be cooled by a single 13.5k unit especially if it is parked in full sun. Hope this helps.
Good info. Makes sense. Slides are far from being thermal efficient when deployed.
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I 2nd the idea of running the fan on high during the day. Turn it back to auto in the evening when the temp drops. running the fan on high also helps keep the unit from freezing up.
X2 on the Reflectix over the windows makes a HUGE difference. We went from the Air running constantly in 80 degree temps to the air actually turning off in the mid 90's humid air. Plus, it keeps it nice and dark for trying to sleep past sunrise.
I am interested in possibly using this insulation but since it is flexible I'm wondering how. Do you simply attach it over the window (ie with velcro etc) or do you mount it in some kind of frame or do you apply it internally (a practice that would have minimum impact on temp)?
Let the window shade hold in place....Not much weight to it
Goes between glass and shade
Ditto. This is how I did in in the desert southwest in July (115 plus temperature) and it was great. Reflecting that infrared back out worked wonders to reduce the heat load that the AC had to deal with.
Also, set your temp for 10 degrees below outside air temp (no higher than 90) so that the AC has a chance to cool the camper. You will be surprised how cool it feels coming in from outside and it will allow your AC to cycle (required to dehumidify) and reduces icing of the cooling fins in humid weather.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
I will add my 2 cents as well. Our first trip out with our brand new 2702ws we couldn't keep the camper cool, frustrating to say the least. After researching this issue in various forums we made some changes that were successful and going into our third year have not had any cooling issues since. First thing we did was plug any holes to the outside, you would be surprised how many there were and the size of them, the one under the tub would fit a small animal, anywhere water lines or electrical comes into the cabin is also an area of concern. We also swapped out the analog thermostat for a digital, there could be a variance in the analog unit as much as 5 degrees to actual temp. The digital is 1-2 degrees. The last issue we found was when we pulled the cover off ac unit inside our camper there were gaps that allowed the cool ac air to get sucked up into the return causing the unit to ice up and work less effectively, some HVAC tape sealed that up and never an issue since, regardless the outdoor temp.
There are lots of ideas and recommendations out there, however a single 13,500 ac unit in a rig your size in 90 degree temps will have its limits.
Does your rig have a option of a second ac unit? If so, I would add one. If not, I would upgrade to a 15,000 unit... or upgrade and install a second one.
Adding a second a/c will not be easy, as his FW is only 30amps
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Jim & Evelyn Tatum
2023 Columbus River Ranch 391MK
2022 Dodge Ram 3500 Big Horn Diesel
Nights Camped 2023 = 30
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Although not for the faint of heart, if anyone is interested in how to install a traditional camper roof air conditioner (the ones that come with our campers) where there is no hole, wiring or framing, let me know. I'm in the process of doing that myself right now. This goes for 30 or 50 amp rigs... as long as you have a free space in your breaker box.
I routinely run two ac units on 30 amp service. You can't run much else, but it can be done. In addition, if 30 amp is all you have, being able to run two different ac units at different times can be beneficial... even if you don't /can't run them at the same time.
In the next week or two I will cut the hole in my roof. I have already ran the electrical, installed the breaker, cut the hole in the ceiling and installed the framing.
I added 2nd 15,000btu ac. Just run on its own 20amp cord. No prob. No need to run all threw your 30 amp box . I'd never do that to my Moho to much heat for 30amp set up
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John & Janice
2016 Coachmen Concord 300DS
2010 Jeep JK 2.5 inch lift 33' tires
Elite Ready Brutte tow bar & Blue Ox base plate
Never mistake Knowledge for Wisdom. One helps you make a living the other help you make a LIFE.
I have the same 8289ws 2015. I've been fighting it since I bought it. I've checked some temps and this is what I've discovered. On a 74degree day, my roof was 119` and my neighbor with a white roof was 78`. my roof is a cream color. my ceiling inside the camper was 91` the heat is leaching in. when the sun goes down all is fine. the a/c unit can't cool the head space.
I have the same 8289ws 2015. I've been fighting it since I bought it. I've checked some temps and this is what I've discovered. On a 74degree day, my roof was 119` and my neighbor with a white roof was 78`. my roof is a cream color. my ceiling inside the camper was 91` the heat is leaching in. when the sun goes down all is fine. the a/c unit can't cool the head space.
Our same model has the same problem as yours. We traded our Jayco with a 13000 ac for our 2016 Rockwood with a 15000 ac. Daytime temps inside on a 85 degree day and our living area usually is at least 80. The ac runs constantly and ices up. We have t turn it off and swelter while it de-ices. One time we had a puddle of water inside on the floor under the ac.
Our same model has the same problem as yours. We traded our Jayco with a 13000 ac for our 2016 Rockwood with a 15000 ac. Daytime temps inside on a 85 degree day and our living area usually is at least 80. The ac runs constantly and ices up. We have t turn it off and swelter while it de-ices. One time we had a puddle of water inside on the floor under the ac.
Icing is most often caused by low air flow. (it can be other things too)
Make sure you run the A/C on high speed in higher ambient temps.
Open the 'Quick Dump" register on the A/C unit to improve air flow across the evaporator. Make sure the filter is clean. Make sure your ducts are open and clear of any obstructions that would restrict air flow.
Moisture and humidity plays a huge role too.
R/V air conditioning systems are closed recirculating systems. They do not draw any air in from the outside. They simply recirculate the air that is in the rig. If you shower or cook, make sure you open a vent/fan and draw as much moisture out as possible. Wet towels, bathing suits can add to the moisture/freezing problems too.
Always start running the A/C long BEFORE you think you need it.
Cooling and maintaining a 75º inside trailer is a whole lot easier than starting when the inside temp is 85º with the sun beating down outside.
Sometimes running an auxiliary fan near the floor (cool air settles) helps circulate the cooler air.
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F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=90
I am interested in possibly using this insulation but since it is flexible I'm wondering how. Do you simply attach it over the window (ie with velcro etc) or do you mount it in some kind of frame or do you apply it internally (a practice that would have minimum impact on temp)?
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I used velcro, cut to the width of the frame.
__________________ 2016 Grey Wolf 26DBH following a 2014 RAM 1500 Outdoorsman
Life is good...Live it!
Nights Camped - (2014) - 16 in 6 trips (2015) - 20 in 6 trips
(2016) - 21 in 7 trips
(2017) - 12 in 3 and going seasonal for at least the rest of the year!
Glad I came across this forum. I'm thinking of buying a used 2016 2503 mini lite with a 13.5 ac. Live in the midwest where temps easily get into the 90's and humid. Sounds like I probably wouldn't be happy with the cooling capability
Glad I came across this forum. I'm thinking of buying a used 2016 2503 mini lite with a 13.5 ac. Live in the midwest where temps easily get into the 90's and humid. Sounds like I probably wouldn't be happy with the cooling capability
Expectations of sub zero cold air in 90 degree humidity are misplaced, but don't worry you will still enjoy the AC.
1) Dry hot is much nicer than wet hot, so your goal should be to reduce the humidity in your camper FIRST, and the cooling will come later.
2) To dehumidify with an air conditioner, the unit must cool the air, but not so much that the coils ice over and block the air flow. Partially blocked coils from heavy frost will quickly turn into a block of ice as the cold fins and wet frost turn to solid ice. A frozen coil will not transfer thermal energy and the compressor will overheat. Inside the compressor is a thermal circuit breaker which will open and shut down the compressor. The AC will "run" (blower will still turn) but nothing will come out (or very low flow of hot humid air).
3) To work properly in a humid environment, the AC must cycle (turn on and off). This will allow the frost to melt; the water be collected in the drip pan; and drained through the drain hole in the pan onto the roof. In a humid environment, constant running will prevent the melt.
4) To allow the unit to cycle, set your thermostat to 10 degrees (NO MORE) below the outside air temperature initially. If the temperature outside is above 100 degrees, then initially set to 90 degrees. Let the air conditioner run for several hours and make sure it is cycling. You will be surprised at how nice it will work, even set as above, because as the humidity is removed, the camper will feel much cooler than the outside air.
5) Once the humidity has been removed and the camper's inside air temperature has started dropping, you can decrease the inside temperature (if you want) to 10 degrees below INSIDE temperature until the desired amount of cooling has been reached.
6) I guess it still must be said as I have seen folks run the AC with the doors open; DON'T. No matter how great your AC, you can not cool the entire planet; leave that to the professionals. Keep the doors and windows CLOSED. Watch children especially if they are used to running in and out of the camper. Water on the windows is a good sign you need to increase the thermostat so the AC can get back to it's dehumidifying job.
7) Reducing the "heat load" on your camper will reduce the wait time until your oasis in the desert is ready. Doors and windows closed; white roof better than dark; use mylar insulated panels to cover the inside of the windows to reflect the sun's heat on the sunny side of the camper. (Good place to mention your fridge will work much better if shaded from direct sun as well as it works a lot like an AC).
8) If you are feeling frisky, get up on the roof and clean your AC's fan, drip pan drains, and wash the roof with a soft brush and mild soap to keep it white.
Expectations of sub zero cold air in 90 degree humidity are misplaced, but don't worry you will still enjoy the AC.
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Thanks Herk - your insight is much appreciated. I've been spoiled in "cooling", coming from a 20' r-pod 178 where I could hang meat within a few hours of setting up the pod and turning on the ac Just sold it and looking for something with more room but still "light".
2016 Grey Wolf 26DBH following a 2014 RAM 1500 Outdoorsman
Just sold it and looking for something with more room but still "light".
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