AC Unit not working on 2015 8289WS

[Fivealive]

Probably not the problem of discussion, but merits a mention. My Coleman Mach fused a relay and would not shut off. The problem was caused by the manual thermostat being turned on and off quickly. No delay in the thermostat. If you have a manual thermostat you would be wise to replace it with a digital. Coleman has a 5 year warranty which should cover the OP's problem.

[Grampa Jim]

Coletraom182....don't try testing a capacitor with a digital meter. If the cap has a charge to it,,,it'll hurt your meter. Before the capacitor testers, which measured the MFD ratings came out, I used an analog meter that was great to see if it's charged and bleeding properly.....but don't try it if you're not familiar with it. There is a remote possibility that you have a dual capacitor,,,,,it'll have three terminals on it. If it's ballooned up, replace it,,,,but it's absolutely critical that you make sure all the wires go back to where they were.
There're too many things you need to be aware of with a digital,,,,,shorted in its windings, shorted to ground, open windings,,,,,,just replace the little one and if you have only one cap with three terminals, replace that one.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

You really can't test a capacitor with a digital meter. The old analog Simpson meters were great for it once you knew what you were doing, but not the digital ones.

You're A/C is probably only going to have one capacitor. It'll be a dual unit. If it has a second cap, it'll be for the compressor.

A digital meter will work, first you need to short out the capacitor with a screw driver then put it to ohms. It should go all the way to infinity and drop down to zero. But you need to short out the terminals same as a simpson. They only use a duel capacitor in these units. If it's leaking or bulging it's bad. Not many of them go bad, unless something is shorting out. Make sure you replace it with the right MFD's.. Sorry Grandpa you must have posted the same time, but you are 100% on the money.

[Grampa Jim]

You're right on also WitchDoctor. I didn't go into detail about testing with a digital, because somebody could get in a lot of trouble trying it if they aren't experienced with what electricity can do to ruin your day.

[RangeMaggotBob]

Originally Posted by Witch Doctor

I think he has a coleman not a dometic, I know of zero 8289WS with dometic, even the refer is a Norcole, only garbage Dometic stuff is the awnings x's 2. I don't know of any changes to that very popular unit, and there are very few problems. Very well built for FR, same as the Flagstaff come off the same line....

Our AC is Dometic as is the fridge. Humming huh? Hmmm... low voltage maybe?

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by tdst51

Our AC is Dometic as is the fridge. Humming huh? Hmmm... low voltage maybe?

Well I stand corrected, now I have heard of one. That's to bad they made a switch...

[Coletrain182]

I was wrong it is a Coleman. I had a big capacitor and a small oneim gonna try to replace both and see if that works. I really appreciate everyone's input!! We got some smart cookie in this bunch! I will give you a update in a little bit. On the way to the parts store now.

[Coletrain182]

So I am at the supply house and they put their tester on both capacitors. The big one read 60mFD and the small one read 7.5mFD. They said they were both good. So I went ahead and bought the small capacitor because they didn't have the big one. So I guess I'll see if that works if not then I guess I have a bad motor. Right?

[Coletrain182]

Okay everyone seems that the thermostat is bad. I tried cutting it on Auto high and it would not come on so I checked my connections on the capacitor one more time to make sure I had it right. Connections were right and locked into place. I tried cutting it on auto High again and nothing so I then switched it the right to the low position on the ON side and what do you know it came on and is blowing cold. So my next question is I guess I have a bad thermostat. Which thermostat is the best one to replace it with and can I get it at Lowe's?

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Coletrain182

Okay everyone seems that the thermostat is bad. I tried cutting it on Auto high and it would not come on so I checked my connections on the capacitor one more time to make sure I had it right. Connections were right and locked into place. I tried cutting it on auto High again and nothing so I then switched it the right to the low position on the ON side and what do you know it came on and is blowing cold. So my next question is I guess I have a bad thermostat. Which thermostat is the best one to replace it with and can I get it at Lowe's?

Any honeywell battery will work, Some people put in a set back but I think it's a waist of money unless you have park model or a full timer living in it for work. Remember you will only have one fan speed unless you add a switch. Cost between 21.00 to 31.00. also some put in a hunter I like honeywell better IMO. DO NOT HOOK THE GROUND UP....

[Grampa Jim]

Coletrain182,,,post a pic of those caps from the top at an angle. I can't tell if they're bulged up or not,,,,,but regardless,,,,I've not recalled having one that could still read the MFD and be buldged up,,,,so they are probably ok.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Grampa Jim

Coletrain182,,,post a pic of those caps from the top at an angle. I can't tell if they're bulged up or not,,,,,but regardless,,,,I've not recalled having one that could still read the MFD and be buldged up,,,,so they are probably ok.

The fan cap looks bulged to me to, but he is putting the new one in also. 7.5 MFD's are cheap anyway. Coletrain if you read this get a SP6 hard start for the compressor while your up there. They are cheap and do work and will help save your compressor...

[Fivealive]

I installed the OEM digital Coleman Digital RV Thermostats | RV Digital Thermostats. Quick job, even used the same screws. No more fear of toasting the contacts using the non-digital model.

[Coletrain182]

Originally Posted by Witch Doctor

Any honeywell battery will work, Some people put in a set back but I think it's a waist of money unless you have park model or a full timer living in it for work. Remember you will only have one fan speed unless you add a switch. Cost between 21.00 to 31.00. also some put in a hunter I like honeywell better IMO. DO NOT HOOK THE GROUND UP....

I appreciate it! I went with a Honeywell!!

[Bama Rambler]

As said above, any thermostat that is powered by batteries and will operate a millivolt system.

Take pictures of the wiring connections before you unhook them. It makes it easier to convert the wire colors to functions.

If you unit is a Coleman the wire colors follow.

Red = +12v (Hook to ""R"/RC" terminal)
Yellow = Comp (Hook to "Y" terminal)
White = Furnace (Hook to "W" terminal)
Blue = -12v (Not Used)
Gray = Low Fan (Not Used)
Green = Hi Fan (Hook to "G" terminal)

You can hook the Gray to the "G" terminal if you want low fan speed instead of high (Not Recommended).

[rockfordroo]

Coletrain:

This may help you. If you don't want to be able to change fan speeds, pick one and forget the switch.