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Old 07-27-2016, 08:50 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by Witch Doctor View Post
You are correct, It seems that some move and others don't. The inside broke loose on mine from the weld that was holding the wedge nut in place inside it was the back bolt. I called Reese, they sent a hitch to my service guy in Danville Va. They removed my old one and installed a brand new sidewinder. It wouldn't move by hand, and still does not. The correct wedge will make a big difference, you can not have play in that chute (jaws) If you do you will have that nudge your talking about. Reese also sent me a oversized wedge that I took to the machine shop and had it cut to fit correctly. A few of us were told that no grease was necessary. Now that was in Goshen by the two engineers that designed it. Now they have changed there story about breaking it down and lubing it. You have to wiggle it down and off but you need two people for that. So I agree that they need to get it together it's just who you talk to on what day. Some people can push them 90 degrees with one hand. Mine it takes to grown men to even try to make it swing. But I have also found out that when it's a little tight it's easier to hook-up to. If you are still having a problem after you get the wedge, I would call them on it...Safe Travels to you...

Engineers redesign and make changes when it found by techs in the field the design did work as designed! Some don't agree but that is the way it is.
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Old 07-28-2016, 02:05 AM   #112
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I'd be interested as to why anyone wouldn't engage it.
I don't know about anybody else, but for me- I don't need it.
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Old 08-20-2016, 10:41 AM   #113
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Need some help - bolt size

I have a fifth wheel with a Reese Revolution. The dealer activated it, but did not put the bolts in the storage location. I am selling the camper to someone who wants the revolution deactivated. Can anyone tell me what size and grade bolts I need? Lock Washer? Torque spec? Thanks.
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Old 08-20-2016, 11:06 AM   #114
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I have a fifth wheel with a Reese Revolution. The dealer activated it, but did not put the bolts in the storage location. I am selling the camper to someone who wants the revolution deactivated. Can anyone tell me what size and grade bolts I need? Lock Washer? Torque spec? Thanks.
5/8 x 1-1/2 Gr 5 torque to 120 lb/ft with locknuts or lock washers.

BTW, make sure you remove the wedge.
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Old 08-20-2016, 11:08 AM   #115
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5/8 x 1-1/2 Gr 5 torque to 120 lb/ft with locknuts or lock washers.
Thank you.
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Old 08-24-2016, 11:57 PM   #116
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I'd be interested as to why anyone wouldn't engage it.
Maybe because I don't need it?
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Old 08-26-2016, 10:01 PM   #117
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i think it is the greatest thing sense ice cream was invented IMHO!!!
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Old 08-27-2016, 10:18 PM   #118
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Agree it's better than smashing the truck with the trailer, but less than perfect

I had to enable the Revolution on my 2012 8265WS when I traded the 2500HD short bed for the Ford F250 short bed. I broke the paint on the locking bolts at the rear of the Revolution pin box for the first time about 4 weeks ago. Never needed it until I got the Ford.

Someone will feel it necessary to tell me they don't need the Revolution or Sidewinder with their 2500HD short bed (which I know) or tell me I should have bought a long bed F250 or maybe even suggest a slider. I know these things to be true myself. I've owned both trucks and I prefer not to use a slider. But at the time I bought this F250 short bed, I did not find a long bed I liked when I needed it. So, I'm currently towing with the F250 short bed truck and I'll make the best of it by using the Revolution that came with my trailer.


The Reese wedge I purchased for the Curt 16K hitch newly installed on my F250 was out of spec and did not fit the Curt hitch plate correctly. But the good folks at Reese sent me a replacement and it fits the hitch plate as it should.

After about 2800 miles of towing, the pin box cannot be moved by hand. With all my weight (192lbs) I might budge it a 1/4". It was completely frozen when I first unlocked it, so any rotation is an improvement. I've lubricated it with graphite and tried lithium based on recommendations from this forum. Doesn't help.

At this point, the Revolution is real tight which may not be a bad thing. It probably acts much like a sway bar. I'm not going to worry about how tight it is for now since Reese seems not to be concerned with my comments about it being frozen. I'll worry about it in 1 year when it is due for the annual 'tear down'. I was a professional mechanic and was involved in racing for a number of years. I'm pretty good at taking things apart. But I gave up on 'tearing down' this Revolution. I could not get it apart.


After towing from Georgia to Wisconsin and meandering about parks in between, the pin box is still nearly frozen in place. When I first enabled it, I spent days of hammering and pulling and was only able to get it to drop down 1/2". I tried unsuccessfully to tear it down for inspection as described in the manual. But that gave me a chance to flood it with lubricant. I re-torqued the castle nut to 80 ft-lbs.

I put the replacement wedge from Reese on the pin box this week and it definitely fits the Curt 16K. That first part number was simply out of spec and did not fit. For the previous 3 weeks I towed with the universal wedge. I look forward to the next 2K mile trip with the replacement wedge to see how it works out.

This trailer towed a lot better when with the short bed 2500HD and B&W hitch when I did not need the Revolution. The sway factor is worse with the Revolution enabled. But that is tolerable. What bothers me more is the problem we have disconnecting the trailer from the hitch. I never had this problem with the 2500HD and the B&W hitch. We could put down the landing gear, chock the trailer and pull the handle and the hitch released the king pin. This is not the case with the Curt 16K and the Revolution with its wedge pushed up in the hitch plate.

Every time we stop with the Revolution enabled with the Curt 16K and try to disconnect the hitch, you can't pull the release. I never had this issue with the B&W. We spent a couple of hours this week connecting and disconnecting the trailer with the new wedge from Reese and the problem persists. I've tried slacking off the wedge a bit but even then the bar can be impossible to pull for the wife. I have to get out and yank the release handle myself.

It is fair to say that a lot of things are different. I had a B&W Companion on the 2500HD and did not need the Revolution to make a 90 degree. I have a Curt 16K on the F250 short bed and I must have the Revolution enabled to safely turn the same trailer. I made the decision not to use a slider. So, this is not an 'apples to apples' comparison. Same trailer, different trucks and hitches.

So far I much preferred the way the trailer towed and disconnected using the 2500HD short bed and the B&W hitch WITHOUT the Revolution enabled.

Based on my 2800 miles towing experience with the Revolution enabled, the Revolution is a less than perfect 'work around'. The wife told me Wednesday after we tried out the replacement wedge from Reese that I should get another hitch, truck or both. She expects the Revolution, F250 and Curt 16K to work like the 2500HD and the B&W hitch. It definitely does not.

I am not slamming my Ford. This F250 drags the trailer up and down the mountains way better than my 6L 2500HD and uses about 27% less fuel. So, there is a lot I like about the Ford. Otherwise I would not have traded. I'm still trying to adjust to the Revolution and that has so far not been very satisfying in comparison to my last tow vehicle where I did not need the Revolution enabled.

The Revolution manual says I need to tear down and inspect that pin box each year. I spent 4 days pounding on it with a block of wood and an 8lb hammer and only got it to barely rotate and drop down a 1/2" or so. I had intended to pull it off that center pin above the castle nut. I could not do it and as tight as it is now I'll bet I won't be able to 'tear down' for inspection a year from now.

That bothers me that the manual suggests I should be able to 'tear it down' but it was so frozen to that pin, it could not be dismantled. I think my problems with Revolution are just beginning. I will try like 'h@#*@' in 12 months tear it down again as specified by Reese. By that time (if it does not fail before then) I will probably have towed 8-10K miles. I'll come back here and update this forum next year and let you know IF I was able to 'tear down' the Revolution per the manufacturer's recommendation.

Reese was unconcerned when I told them my pin box was frozen when I first enabled it and remains nearly frozen now. They lead me to believe the new wedge will resolve my concerns with the Revolution.

I would be interested to hear from those of you who have performed the required annual 'tear down' on your Revolution pin box described on page 7 of the manual. I fully intend to continue my discussion with Reese regarding the annual 'tear down' requirement on my nearly immovable pin box.

Thanks again to those of you who have offered your advice and experience.

Regards,

Kenh
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:03 AM   #119
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Kenh, I feel your pain. I tossed way too many profanities at my pinbox when it was activated. It was wonderful when I got it to engage in less than 3 tries. I moved onto a lb F250 and locked it up. Hooks up like a dream first time, every time. No more maintenance or obnoxious noises.
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:08 AM   #120
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Have used mine since Feb2012 and never had a hitching/unhitching problem. Made my own wedge. After more than 40K miles towing, I still cannot swivel it side to side even with a 4' cheater bar. I do, when the opportunity arises, will spray some white lithium grease on the wear plate when it is turned close to 90. I don't worry about it at all. I have a 16K Reese in an 05 Silverado 1500 short bed.
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