Will try adusting the new wedge
I tried that with the universal wedge and it did not seem to help.
Reese replaced the first wedge I bought for the Curt and I installed the replacement last Wed. I chocked the trailer, pulled forward slightly to ensure the king pin was in the front of the hitch plate before tightening up the new wedge. I did not slack this one off 1/16" like I did with the universal wedge. I'm was thinking of driving it a bit and break in the edges of the wedge before I try that adjustment to the new wedge. So far I've only towed it with the new wedge 15 miles.
Rocking the truck forward to reverse is exactly what it takes sometimes to disconnect the hitch. Never had to do that any of my previous 5th wheel hitches. This was problematic when I just got the trailer leveled on the blocks on one side. It might also put stress on the landing gear since it is down when I'm trying to disconnect. When we were experimenting in the driveway it seemed to help if I chocked the trailer and pulled forward slightly, set the brake and force that king pin to the front of the hitch plate like I did when I installed these wedges. The problem seems worse on an unlevel site.
I am hoping this new wedge will be an improvement over the universal. Now when I straighten after a turn, this wedge very nearly forces the pin box back to the the center position. It is better than the universal wedge in this respect.
Some of this may be the slide bar type hitch. I picked this hitch because it was one of several in the Reese Revolution wedge installation video and the had a custom wedge for it. But in fact Reese used the universal wedge in the video. Coincidentally this Curt hitch was recommended my local installer. This is the first time I've used a hitch with the sliding bar release. Always had the jaws before. Swapping out the hitch is not out of the question at this point. The wife already told me to get another hitch, truck or both.
I'll back this wedge up 1/16" and see if it helps.
Thanks for the advice Scott.