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Old 06-30-2014, 02:10 PM   #61
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On using the wedge, some 5th Wheel hitch manufacturers don't recommend using them. As an example, the B&W 3000 specifically says not to use a wedge, but the 3300 is capable. The 3300 is the model used for the Ford 5th wheel prep package, and I verified that it is wedge capable before buying it.
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Old 06-30-2014, 10:09 PM   #62
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When I talked to them about it last year, they told me it had a special sleeve that did not require lube. I think it is a proprietary thing from their indication. Being a retired engineer, I was also interested, but I am also aware of such non lube brgs, sleeves and bushings. Anyway, I'll take their word for it knowing that such things do exist and has for several years.
Thanks OC for sharing that inside info. It does satisfy some of my curiosity (but not all). I should have been born in Missouri because I like to See and Touch. Would be nice to see the mechanism some day even in a semi-drop condition to check it out.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:16 PM   #63
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Only downside to the revolution in my brief experience has been occasional difficulty locking the pin when the RV is slightly out of level, or on a grade. The wedge can get in the way of a smooth lockup and require changing the approach angle, etc. Unlocking can sometimes be a trial/error extra time issue which I suppose only experience can remedy. A perfectly level truck and trailer is the ultimate remedy, here, I suppose. And you're not gonna see that a lot.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:00 PM   #64
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I've never lubed my Revolution and it moves freely by hand. Love that I can swing it out of the way. One problem I did have on our Rockwood 8289WS is that the factory wiring harness was clamped to the hitch boc while the Revloution was not engaged. When I engaged it, and swiveled the box by hand (good think I could), I noticed the cable would have been ripped from where ever it's connected up under the bedroom. Removing the cable clamp from the Revolution box solved the problem.
Question about the swing free vs. tight Revolutions: I wonder just how tight that monster nut on the pivot pin has to be torqued. When the weight is taken off of the landing gear, I notice the gap is uneven at my wear plate - open at the back and closed at the front. Do I need to tighten it up a bit to remove the gap?
Question 2: Is regular replacement of that wear plate to be expected? (I'll need a big socket and wrench for that one!)
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:06 PM   #65
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...I wonder just how tight that monster nut on the pivot pin has to be torqued...
Torque to 80 lb/ft and tighten to align hole for cotter pin.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:13 PM   #66
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Have the identical issue with wiring stretch with rotation of RR. Have to consult mfr about time replacement of the swivel plate etc. Only lube necessary I believe is the wedge so that it doesn't hinder lookups.


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Old 07-08-2014, 09:29 PM   #67
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Only downside to the revolution in my brief experience has been occasional difficulty locking the pin when the RV is slightly out of level, or on a grade. The wedge can get in the way of a smooth lockup and require changing the approach angle, etc. Unlocking can sometimes be a trial/error extra time issue which I suppose only experience can remedy. A perfectly level truck and trailer is the ultimate remedy, here, I suppose. And you're not gonna see that a lot.
Exactly what I have found, but thats with the wedge that comes with it....sounds like a custom wedge would remedy that...till such time as I get around to getting a custom wedge, I have de-activated the Reese Revolution and really have not had any issues maneuvering the trailer to where I have needed to.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:37 PM   #68
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The factory wedge is a POS that can be fixed by grinding I smooth on both sides of the stack of plates that are tack welded together. I did that and finally just cut a new one out of 1" thick plate and eliminated the slots. Works great.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:48 PM   #69
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Wouldn't I bump the cab (cap) with a 6.5 foot bed (F250), or close to it when making really sharp turns? Activated, mine has quite a bit of room forward of the cap.. Probably enough to fit my monster 10k generator without fear of scraping the bottom of the cap. But I wouldn't need to do that too often , anyway..


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Old 07-08-2014, 09:54 PM   #70
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I would bet with a 6 1/2 ft box and your Reese activated...you would not have any issues...I can back mine and pretty much jacknife the trailer and not touch the cab...even with the Reese de activated, I can get awfully close to 90 degrees and not be touching the cab...but also depends on the design of your trailer cap.
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:41 AM   #71
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I have a Ford 6.5 box, revolution not activated, and lots of clearance all around. I carry lots of stuff in the box when we camp, nothing gets scraped and loose stuff is bungy corded to be secure, for us the setup as we use it is perfect for us.
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:14 AM   #72
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Yea, if I were you I would, even in there direction it shows the only place to lubricate. But you know as well as I do that anything FR will say or there dealers you take with a grain of salt. I'm sure OC will say the samething. These two guys where the people who designed it not any rep. my question to you is how do you lube that pin without walking down the whole hitch? That is not a one person job. I will have them look at again in Goshen as you. Also mine took a lot more miles then that to get tight, really didn't happen until after I made my cross country trip.
I have a spray can of White Lithium grease I shoot between the plates. Since the hitch moves so easily (360 deg if I could) I just turn it, squirt some grease, turn again and more grease then moved back and forth a few times. I do this every time we go out.

But yes, we need to get a merry band together and corner Reese at Goshen and have them look at my rig and yours and OCs and compare them!
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:15 AM   #73
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I have a Ford 6.5 box, revolution not activated, and lots of clearance all around. I carry lots of stuff in the box when we camp, nothing gets scraped and loose stuff is bungy corded to be secure, for us the setup as we use it is perfect for us.
Supercrew? See what happens if you start to Jackknife your rig - WARNING: have a spotter because you WILL dent your cab
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:21 AM   #74
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...But yes, we need to get a merry band together and corner Reese at Goshen and have them look at my rig and yours and OCs and compare them!
Won't see mine, unless you come to Concord, NC.
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:25 AM   #75
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Wouldn't I bump the cab (cap) with a 6.5 foot bed (F250), or close to it when making really sharp turns? Activated, mine has quite a bit of room forward of the cap.. Probably enough to fit my monster 10k generator without fear of scraping the bottom of the cap. But I wouldn't need to do that too often , anyway..


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I would bet with a 6 1/2 ft box and your Reese activated...you would not have any issues...I can back mine and pretty much jacknife the trailer and not touch the cab...even with the Reese de activated, I can get awfully close to 90 degrees and not be touching the cab...but also depends on the design of your trailer cap.
Maybe...probably depends, like WFD says, on your end cap....

When our Reese was not activated, 6 Actual was practicing backing and she was jackknifing the 5er and truck. I was on the opposite side and just happened to wander around and stop her - as the 5er was about 6cm from the cab

So yes, if you jackknife, at least on a F150 King Ranch SuperCrew, towing a Rockwood 8289WKS/Diamond, you CAN and WILL dent the cab.
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:26 AM   #76
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Won't see mine, unless you come to Concord, NC.
Darn it...I HATE that ya'll are not coming

Well I have the photos you sent me....
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Old 07-09-2014, 11:59 AM   #77
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Maybe...probably depends, like WFD says, on your end cap....

When our Reese was not activated, 6 Actual was practicing backing and she was jackknifing the 5er and truck. I was on the opposite side and just happened to wander around and stop her - as the 5er was about 6cm from the cab

So yes, if you jackknife, at least on a F150 King Ranch SuperCrew, towing a Rockwood 8289WKS/Diamond, you CAN and WILL dent the cab.
I agree you can hit the corner if you go over a certain degree. I tried before activation. How many miles do you have on your trailer since you activated it? I bet you a beer that you and I pushing on mine that it will not move, I used to like when i was able to turn it and get out of the way 90 degrees. I use to spray the pad and move it around all the time. It works great but sure has tightened up......
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Old 07-11-2014, 08:45 PM   #78
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I also use whit lithium grease. Today's trip things were groaning a but so it gets lubed before we head back home. I have asked for a lift kit at Goshen. At times backing in on an angle almost touch the back corner of the box to the underside of the fifth wheel. I have come close to the cab on the same angle, can not do 90 degree turn going in the driveway at home.

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Old 07-11-2014, 08:47 PM   #79
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I also use whit lithium grease. Today's trip things were groaning a but so it gets lubed before we head back home. I have asked for a lift kit at Goshen. At times backing in on an angle almost touch the back corner of the box to the underside of the fifth wheel. I have come close to the cab on the same angle, can not do 90 degree turn going in the driveway at home.
Is yours activated?
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Old 07-11-2014, 08:55 PM   #80
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I have about 25,000 miles on mine, always activated. Was easy to manually turn at first, but tightened up after a few months. Impossible to manually turn now.


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