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Old 10-16-2018, 07:30 PM   #1
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Actual Width of 2507S ?

Hi All,

I know the official specs say the 2507S is 96". But does that include the awning and vents, and anything else that might add a few inches?

Trying plan an "RV Port" and just curious.

Thanks,
Jeff
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Old 10-17-2018, 08:39 AM   #2
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I would not make the opening less then 10' wide which gives you 1' either side. If I had it to do over again I would have made my shop doors 12' instead of the 10' I have. Its hard to align a rig perfectly straight when backing in so the wiggle room is needed.
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Old 10-17-2018, 08:53 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaDog View Post
I would not make the opening less then 10' wide which gives you 1' either side. If I had it to do over again I would have made my shop doors 12' instead of the 10' I have. Its hard to align a rig perfectly straight when backing in so the wiggle room is needed.
Yes good advice! Youroo! ! You may want it even wider so RV Door may be Opened also!
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Old 10-17-2018, 10:13 AM   #4
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To directly answer your question, the 96" measurement is straight wall to straight wall, so anything protruding past the wall isn't counted. Those units are usually about 6" to 8" wider than that.

Having said that. Since you're planning an RV port, seriously consider making it wide enough to allow you to open the slide and the door at the same time. If you don't, you will regret it at some point. I consider 14' wide to be the minimum. Also make it long enough and tall enough to accommodate your next RV.

You can read many threads where people upgraded and now need to make the RV-port longer and/or taller. Don't be that guy!
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Old 10-17-2018, 10:38 AM   #5
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40' X 60' Morton Building....and call it good.
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Old 10-17-2018, 11:35 AM   #6
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Thanks Guys for the replies. I currently adding a 3-bay 26'x40' addition to my existing garage (just poured the footings yesterday in fact), plus doing the RV Port. Long story short, I was going with 18' wide x 45' long (14' high). But I got thinking if I went to 20' wide I might be able to fit two trailers in there....if I ever needed to. But looking at this even that might be snug, especially if door not almost as wide entire 20' width (might be hard to back in one of the trailers on an angle). Also have to see what the actual RV Port height is inside closer to the outside wall (not just in the middle), because IF I had a 2507S in there and maybe wanted to also park a 5th wheel in there too (some of these smaller "half ton" 5th wheels looking appealing to me now) I want to be sure there enough height inside. Going to stop by to see the guy that sells the metal buildings today, might go to 22' x 46'. Thanks...
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Old 10-17-2018, 04:21 PM   #7
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I went with 26x40 when I built mine 7 years ago, and wish I had gone to 30' wide. The 14' wall height is adequate for anything I have or have had. Doors are a speciasl consideration, in that anything over 7' high or 10' wide is considered commercial, and the cost is often out of this world...I would suggest that if you can work with 10' wide doors, you should definitely go that way. With the 26' width, two 10' doors really fills up the wall! It does work for me, but as said above, 30' width would be a lot better! There IS enough room inside, but only just. I keep the RV and my pickup in there, along with having room for a work bench, shelves, and so on.

Considering that it gets plenty hot and cold here in the Ozarks, I made a decision to build the walls with regular 2x6 studs, allowing for insulation to be installed, and also went with a full ceiling, likewise insulated. With the vertical studded outside walls, we used the regular steel "barn" siding, but installed horizontally. There is a company here in town that makes the siding to order, roll forming it from huge rolls, and will make sheets exactly how long you want them, within 1/10". The building went up quickly and smoothly, and looks much more "residential" as a result.

Other information: Being a retired electrician, I installed a 100 amp service, and also put in a 92% gas furnace (82k BTU) and a 4 ton A/C unit. Wet it up with a pair of minimum/maximum thermostats, having an "Occupied/Un-Occupied" switch in the house, to keep energy costs down. So far, It has been great, and adequate. We had a 12' high door and a 7' high door, and I wish I had ordered a "high lift" installation for the 7' door, where the tracks run pretty much straight up the wall, instead of horizontally, which limits how high you can lift a vehicle.
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Old 10-17-2018, 09:11 PM   #8
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I think I am now going with 24' x 46', with a 16' wide door. That puts me 16' from my right side setback. Still within code, but getting close to the property line. In fact going to 30' would put me exactly at the minimum setback, trying to keep the neighbor happy too. I started out at 18x40....now at 24 x 46. And that on top of also building a 26' x 40' (3 bay) addition on my current garage, just poured the footings for that Tuesday in fact. I did put a 100 Amp sub panel in my current garage too, did that for my Chevy Volt I got two years so I had 240V power for charger for that, plus the garage expansion and RV Port. If I had more room I might go bigger than 24x46, but...
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Old 10-18-2018, 01:44 PM   #9
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You will definitely need the wiggle room when backing in. A large sliding "barn door" is a big help and you can make it big enough to work for your rig. I put double latches and locks on mine and also a bolt lock so it can't be slid without unlocking all the locks. Also, allow room for your slide outs to slide out inside the building so you can work on your rig and stay inside. Another consideration is connection to your septic or sewer so you can flush and dump your unit during winterization or spring activation just to make sure everything is out of the tanks. Your 100 amp electric should be good. Again, do watch having enough room at the door since as you back in the swing can be quite large and it is difficult to see it in a narrow door. Which reminds me, you need to have a lot of light inside so you can see what you are doing while backing in, especially if you are doing it on a sunny day. The difference between inside and outside the building can be really great. I found the new 4500 lumen stoplights work pretty well and are coming down in price. Don't skimp on the lighting, even if you make it in two switches to turn half on at a time. The LED's also use a lot less power and turn on full intensity in the winter, where fluorescent lights take a while to warm up to full brightness, if they go on at all in really low temps. I would make that door as wide as possible and make sure you have room for those slide outs. That's something you can't easily fix after the building is up and inspected.
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Old 10-19-2018, 11:40 AM   #10
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Chuck, good ideas. I can't do a sewer drain line though because the RV Port will be lower than my septic tank. But several years ago (when I had my Southwind Class A) I did run a PVC pipe from the corner of my garage to my septic tank, and I put a garden hose type connector on that, so I could use a Flojet Portable RV Waste Pump (and a garden hose) to pump out the tanks (making sure that hose was for that purpose only!). The Flojet pump works pretty good, but they made it 12V. So you had to have a car battery handy to power it! They should make a 120V version so you could use any extension cord to easily get power to the pump, would make using it a lot easier. I think you are right on lighting too. If fact several months replaced the lights in a building I own with LED's (even "high-bay" warehouse lights). Power company even helped on the cost of that (plus huge savings on power bill now). But yes, I'll prob get similar lights for RV Port. Think I will go with 24' wide, I think that's about as wide as I can go given the location and my property line. For one trailer I should have tons of room. I was just trying to plan so if by chance someday I wanted to fit two trailers or other stuff in there I could. I am thinking I will go with a 16'w x 14'h door. I think thats the biggest I can do. I can do two 10' doors too.....but think I'd prefer the single 16', I agree with you a narrow door (even 10') does not seem that big when backing in a 25' or 30' trailer.
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