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Old 04-30-2016, 07:49 PM   #121
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Stick on bubble levels

Where have you attached your level for the side to side leveling of the trailer? Seems with the angled front end of the Windjammers, putting a level on the side of the V shaped nose would give a partial read for side to side & a partial read for front to back. And the very front is curved, so a level wouldn't be completely attached.
Would just setting a small ( 6 to 10 inch ) level across the tongue do the trick? I was also thinking about one of those round levels with a little circle in the center. Maybe stick that to the top of the tongue. That should cover side to side & front to back.
Just my thoughts.
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Old 05-01-2016, 06:01 AM   #122
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Originally Posted by tuckerdog1 View Post
Where have you attached your level for the side to side leveling of the trailer? Seems with the angled front end of the Windjammers, putting a level on the side of the V shaped nose would give a partial read for side to side & a partial read for front to back. And the very front is curved, so a level wouldn't be completely attached.
Would just setting a small ( 6 to 10 inch ) level across the tongue do the trick? I was also thinking about one of those round levels with a little circle in the center. Maybe stick that to the top of the tongue. That should cover side to side & front to back.
Just my thoughts.
IMHO, there is too much deflection in the frame for a level on the tongue to be accurate. I wish it were so simple. I use my 4' carpenter's level on th floor just inside the door for front to back and I lay it across the kitchen counter for left to right. I'm not looking for perfection, but I want it close.

Bruce
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Old 05-01-2016, 07:39 AM   #123
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X2, we use a level on the floor by the door. I put a little piece of velcro on the level and a piece on the wall by the small cupboard as you go inside. Easy to reach without opening any outside cubbies or slides.
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:22 AM   #124
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I attached a small 2 way level to the tongue. Once I got the trailer level using an 18" level inside the trailer, I pulled the slides in and attached the level on the tongue with thick 2 sided tape

I then added a few small sheet metal screws so I could tweak the level just right

With the slides in it shows level, with the slides out it shows not level even though the trailer is. Works great for me.

Linc
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:15 AM   #125
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We have 2 in the back over the lights. One for storage and one door when the slides are out. We used a level on the floor to set the outside levels. Seems to work fine.
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:28 AM   #126
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I don't like levels on my trailers. The jayco I had that the dealer put levels on, well they moved all over the place and were never right.

I put a 4 ft level on the back bumper to get close and on the tongue of my sunset trail (can't use the tongue on my windjammer).

Then I check the floor near the door both ways with an 18 inch level. Then I go in and check the refrigerator for level with the 18 incher.
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Old 05-01-2016, 11:24 AM   #127
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Thanks All,

I was kinda leaning toward the level inside the door option. DW didn't want to do it that way. But might just have to.

Tuckerdog1
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Old 05-01-2016, 08:28 PM   #128
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We are into the 4' level btw front door & ref for side to side ( what ever the distance at the bottom of the level and floor is the height of leveling blocks needed) and turn it 90 for frt to bk...this technique works great for us and the ref is spot on....critical when running on LP.
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Old 05-02-2016, 07:24 AM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuckerdog1 View Post
Where have you attached your level for the side to side leveling of the trailer? Seems with the angled front end of the Windjammers, putting a level on the side of the V shaped nose would give a partial read for side to side & a partial read for front to back. And the very front is curved, so a level wouldn't be completely attached.
Would just setting a small ( 6 to 10 inch ) level across the tongue do the trick? I was also thinking about one of those round levels with a little circle in the center. Maybe stick that to the top of the tongue. That should cover side to side & front to back.
Just my thoughts.
I put the standard Hopkins graduated level on the back of the TT. Level out your trailer first, then peel and stick. No curved surface to try and figure out! Make it easy on yourself... and just a plain peel and stick between the wheel for front to back and the graduated one for how many blocks you have to use and on what side!
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:20 AM   #130
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I have a 3006wk. If I level it with the slides in, it is way off when the slides go out.

I found that it is easier to get it perfect with the slides out, then pull them in and attach your level. That way you can get it level while still attached to your truck.

Linc
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