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Old 12-14-2015, 01:50 PM   #31
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Wrong Hitch

Wow, DB Travelers, thanks for your advice. No wonder my trailer is not stable enough. I thought I just needed to adjust the hitch but it turns out Fun Town sold me the wrong hitch too!

My weights show a couple of real problems. First, the tongue weight of 1320 is way over the 1000# rating of the hitch. More importantly, the weight on the front axle was 420# LIGHTER with the trailer than without. Not realizing the hitch was rated for only 1000# I thought I just needed to raise the bar to shift more weight to the front but that is not enough. The trailer is also 80# over gross, so I need to lighten the load and move some of the weight off the tongue.

I'll be checking with Fun Town right away.
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Old 12-14-2015, 02:23 PM   #32
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Glad to help! I just checked online and FR claims the hitch weight is 770#
I contacted Fun Town about the incorrect hitch, and took my CAT scales ticket from my first day of ownership showing the calculated hitch weight on the Trekker hitch. It was 1075#, not the 800 in the specs. They (Fun Town) should know what the actual hitch weight is when they recommend the WDH for each trailer. I would wager they have scales they could actually put under the hitch to see "real world" weight, and size it accordingly. I would start with your salesperson and if he/she directs you to the Service department, ask for Curtis Maricle - curtis@funtownrv.com. He is the Asst. Manager in Service and actually gets things done unlike the Manager, who I couldn't get to do anything not even return emails.
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Old 12-14-2015, 05:20 PM   #33
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We will head out to Fl in 10 days for our third trip in our 3025. We have had on major issue and FR just replaced both axles this fall after I found some bad welds. We switched to LRE Carlisle tires as a 10,000 pound trailer with C range tires is nuts. Other wise it has been great and the quality is above average for a TT. It tows like it is not there with our 3/4 GMC
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Old 12-14-2015, 05:24 PM   #34
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Grn_Mtns
Where were you camping at in your picture; looks really nice.
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Old 12-14-2015, 05:46 PM   #35
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Sanibel Causeway Ft Myers FL

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Grn_Mtns
Where were you camping at in your picture; looks really nice.
This was just for the day.If you pull in early you can be there as long as you want and pull off for the night
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Old 12-14-2015, 05:58 PM   #36
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2011 model 3025. our dealer was less than helpful, but through FR we got a lift kit installed, board in furnace replaced and some warranty to replace tires. Now have "e" load. Still run into small problems, but we live in it 5 months during the winter and camp some in the summer, so expect some usage issues. Floor plan works great for us and overall we still enjoy the unit.


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Old 12-14-2015, 07:39 PM   #37
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I keep my Trekker hitch off the 2502S trailer when we got the Windjammer.
Had front end of truck bouncing to much and nose of trailer was riding to high.
I lowered the ball in the hitch to take care of the nose, but still had the bounce.
I thought I might have need the heaver Trekker bars. I contacted Trekker and found out that the ball need to be tilted back toward the trailer 9 to 12 degrees.
Set it an 10 and that took care of the bounce on 1/2 ton Chevy.
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:23 AM   #38
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In reading the Equal-i-zer manual in preparation for adjusting the L brackets, I found that the coupler was installed ignoring the instructions on pages 13 and 14 and figure 11 regarding installation on a V-nose trailer. DB and anyone else with an Equal-i-zer on a V-nose trailer, did you mount with the coupler at the top or bottom?
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:22 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swift View Post
In reading the Equal-i-zer manual in preparation for adjusting the L brackets, I found that the coupler was installed ignoring the instructions on pages 13 and 14 and figure 11 regarding installation on a V-nose trailer. DB and anyone else with an Equal-i-zer on a V-nose trailer, did you mount with the coupler at the top or bottom?
Hey Jim,
I am assuming you talking about the Link Plates not the main coupler for the ball since we can't do anything with that ourselves. It looks like the RV Service dept mounted my link plates opposite of what the manual reads, (kind of upside down). From reading the V-nose special install guide, I don't think it really matters as far as the functioning of the hitch. It reads to me, if something is in the way, you can mount the plates either way and it seems maybe a lot of the v-nose trailer's, v-noses are in the way. My v-nose does not get in the way of the Link Plates so I don't think it matters which way they are mounted, the most important thing is there is no space between the frame and the bolts. To make sure I just fired off an email to Equalizer.
Thanks!
To qualify my opinion, this is from someone who has never used a WDH before, so I don't know much about it...

This is where I found the Special V-Nose instruction Guide/Supplement:
Special Install Guides
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Old 12-15-2015, 04:13 PM   #40
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This is what I got back from Equalizer, it's OK:

That looks like a pretty normal set-up, but there are a couple of things you can check to make sure it is a good set-up for you vehicle and trailer:

1) When the bars are installed and sitting on the L-bracket, are they pretty parallel with the trailer frame? It’s ok to have a slight up-angle, but a severe angle would indicate that the L-bracket is too high. If you have a down angle, then the L-brackets are probably too low.
2) Are the brackets between 27”-32” away from the middle of the coupler of your trailer?
3) The only other thing I would check would be to see if there is a gap between the bolt that runs along the bottom of the frame and the frame itself. I’ve included a picture showing what the gap would look like. If there is a gap, then you’ll need to shim it with something (wedge of wood, piece of metal etc.) so the brackets do not shift or “walk” on you.

Other than that, it looks like a good set-up, and as long as it meets these requirements then I think it will work with what you’ve got. I hope this helps, but please feel free to ask any questions you have.
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