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Old 09-07-2015, 08:11 PM   #21
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I too am unhappy with my a/c unit. I have a brand new used 4 times, 2016 28dbs. The a/c units they put in these units are like everything else, undersized and cheap made junk. I found the cold air side of the unit blowing directly into the return. Causing constant freeze ups. There is only a little sticky back tape holding things in there! My old 2000 Coachman only had a 10.5k unit and it would freeze you out. I actually had ice on the inside of the windows one time when I left it on and came back a few hrs. later. Now mine has a mind of its own. It shuts off for no reason, the fan will sometimes stop even though I have it in Man. lo/hi. And of course it stops most @ 2:00 in the AM. Does anyone know of a good thermostat to replace the little/frail digital P.O.S. Dometic one that's I have?
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Old 09-08-2015, 11:27 AM   #22
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Anyone unhappy with their AC too.

My Friend, you have the same issue most of us do. First let's look at what ToDouble stated. The differential is only part of the number. If you start out with 100 degree unit 85 degree is what you could expect in a while...but continuing lower until you reach thermostat setting. Except that if your unit like most units is lacking in decent R values in the walls, floor and ceilings. Then your never going to get truly cold/cool in a very hot location. Believe me, I am living in my unit in west Texas oil fields, unit runs nonstop with daily temps over 100 outside.
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Old 09-08-2015, 12:02 PM   #23
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This is the new a/c output on the 13.5k unit I installed week and a half ago.
Similar heat and humidity.
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:17 PM   #24
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Not a quick bad ytube, I agree with everything EXCEPT a delta T of 20 degrees, I have never measured a 20 degree difference. 15 to 17 is the most ever. Can not even get that from a trane or carrier at your home. In the 20 degree range you talking chillers like at malls and big stores. He was a 100% about the heat gain in your furniture and things like that. Even to keep up with the heat gain during the day you would still need a low humidity day and cloudy. I taught at the college level as a certified teacher in the State of California for our union at night to the new union app. coming in. Worked and owned a company for over 20 years in the SF bay area local # 104.....
I agree, often here 20 degree difference but it is NOT the normal! I worked for the state of NJ and use to tell my guys if there is a 10' difference leave it alone for a while. Normally the unit would settle down around 15 - 17 difference after a while.

One thing I rarely see mentioned is use your roof vents! They are there to let excess heat out so the AC can run and cool easier. Once the trailer gets cloe to temp then close them. If you are going out for the day and don't want to run the AC for what ever reason at least open the vents! It is surprising how much of a difference that can make.

Jim
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:35 PM   #25
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Just about any battery back-up stat will work, but it has to have batteries honeywell, hunter are just a few.
Glad you said "just about". I tried this Honeywell and can ot get to work!

replacement therostat

Have been given help and suggestions by some of our good members but nothing worked. Finally got fed up and called Honeywell for help. They told me that This stat can not be made to work as a replacement for my Dometic stat. I put the old one back and checked it, it is working perfect so am going to leave it.

Jim
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Old 09-08-2015, 02:41 PM   #26
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As your RV or trailer is stored and / or going down the road closed up all the heat inside the unit is absorbed by all the furnishings, carpet bedding or anything else that's in it. Your A/C unit or unit's need to also overcome not only the heat gain of the unit but the heat everything else is giving off. All that takes "time". Our previous 5r had one 15K A/C unit, after traveling 6 hours on a 100+ day it took till way past sundown, several hours to to start to feel comfortable. Our Rockwood has 15K and 13K units, way better and lots less time to cool down as long as we have 50 amp service to plug into. Open vents helps.
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:40 PM   #27
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Glad you said "just about". I tried this Honeywell and can ot get to work!

replacement therostat

Have been given help and suggestions by some of our good members but nothing worked. Finally got fed up and called Honeywell for help. They told me that This stat can not be made to work as a replacement for my Dometic stat. I put the old one back and checked it, it is working perfect so am going to leave it.

Jim
I suspect a miscommunication between yourself and Honeywell. But whatever.
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:56 PM   #28
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I get the whole "it needs time to pull out the heat, bla bla bla" thing. My point is. I'm camping with 5 of my friends, for the exact same amount of time. We are right next to each other in the exact same temperature and our AC is running for the same amount of time. Two of which are fifth wheels with 13.5k ac's. Why does theirs measure 47 degrees and mine 71?
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:07 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by njcamper View Post
I get the whole "it needs time to pull out the heat, bla bla bla" thing. My point is. I'm camping with 5 of my friends, for the exact same amount of time. We are right next to each other in the exact same temperature and our AC is running for the same amount of time. Two of which are fifth wheels with 13.5k ac's. Why does theirs measure 47 degrees and mine 71?
Could be many reasons, low on freon, short cycling, going off on internal overload, frozen coil, dirty filter, sounds like your fan is just running. Call a repair man. A lot of units come low on freon brand new. Being low on freon wouldn't be noticed on cooler days but diff. on hot day's. It will also cause your coil to freeze. How old is your unit? Is it Dometic or coleman? What temp is your trailer inside and what is your stat set at. Can't guess at your problem or send you in the right direction without a little more info. If you have a EMT progressive or something how many amps is it showing that you are pulling? IMPORTANT to know.
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:26 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by oldtool2 View Post
Glad you said "just about". I tried this Honeywell and can ot get to work!

replacement therostat

Have been given help and suggestions by some of our good members but nothing worked. Finally got fed up and called Honeywell for help. They told me that This stat can not be made to work as a replacement for my Dometic stat. I put the old one back and checked it, it is working perfect so am going to leave it.

Jim
I have talked to dometic, Question for you. Do you have two stats and 2 units? If you do Honeywell will not work being the second stat which is called a slave stat. If you have only one and can post a picture of the subbase so I can see how they have it wired I might beable to help, but you will also need a jumper wire with two alligator clips on it. If you want a digital stat Dometic has them but they are pricey. Found this post on amazon under questions, but it didn't say what the unit was:::::: Will this work with a 12v rv system?
A: Yes, it will. I just installed one in my Chalet Alpine trailer. Works great. You have to spend a little time working out the wiring but it's not hard. As others have mentioned, the batteries are not the power source for the heating loop. If you need help figuring out which terminals to wire I can post that. W. Phelps answered on July 21, 2014
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