Anyone unhappy with their AC too?

[njcamper]

I have a 2015 Rockwood which I purchased brand new in March. I took it out for the first time at the end of May. I am on my 3rd AC unit. The first two units had a temperature difference of only 7 to 9 degrees between the return air and supply air. This latest one has a 16 degree differential which the manufacturer says falls between the 15-20 degree range. I was camping with my friends with the second unit and their units are ALL blowing at 47,while mine was blowing at 67-71 . I called Airxcel asking what is the proper supply temp and they wouldn't say anything but that 15-20 degree diff range. Don't ac units blow at the same temp and then simply shut off when the thermostat is satisfied?
I am stumped and pretty annoyed! I'm camping next week and I hope its hot enough to test this thing out. Most of my friends units are at least 3-4 years older than mine. could it be they are building them different? We all have 13,5K units and two of them were fifth wheels. I don't get it! Anyone else having issues?

[Todouble]

A/c's don't blow at a constant temp. The 15-20 degree differential is the return air vs supply air. If your rig has been closed up and hot and you start with all that load. 100 degree closed up trailer may only supply out 80-85 degree air. As your rig cools so does the supply temp. After you catch the load and under normal temps you may see that 47 degree discharge but outside air and humidity will also play into the equation. As far as the thermostat it just an on off switch to the temp you see it at. Ac unit blows whatever temp it can until temp is met. Hope this helps

[kandl]

15-20 degree temp delta is normal. As Todouble alluded to, there are are many other contributing factors. This may help:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ja9zhyfrIqE

[asquared]

If it isn't cutting it then you need to consider a 15k AC, second AC or both.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Todouble

A/c's don't blow at a constant temp. The 15-20 degree differential is the return air vs supply air. If your rig has been closed up and hot and you start with all that load. 100 degree closed up trailer may only supply out 80-85 degree air. As your rig cools so does the supply temp. After you catch the load and under normal temps you may see that 47 degree discharge but outside air and humidity will also play into the equation. As far as the thermostat it just an on off switch to the temp you see it at. Ac unit blows whatever temp it can until temp is met. Hope this helps

Very good explanation. Biggest complaints by RVer's 1) A/C 2) HVAC 3) power

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by kandl

15-20 degree temp delta is normal. As Todouble alluded to, there are are many other contributing factors. This may help:

Not a quick bad ytube, I agree with everything EXCEPT a delta T of 20 degrees, I have never measured a 20 degree difference. 15 to 17 is the most ever. Can not even get that from a trane or carrier at your home. In the 20 degree range you talking chillers like at malls and big stores. He was a 100% about the heat gain in your furniture and things like that. Even to keep up with the heat gain during the day you would still need a low humidity day and cloudy. I taught at the college level as a certified teacher in the State of California for our union at night to the new union app. coming in. Worked and owned a company for over 20 years in the SF bay area local # 104.....

[mud yapster]

My bedroom a/c was under charged from the factory. I fixed it and been good since. 18 to 19 degree split on high speed and 22 deg on low speed.
Supply air temp minus return air temp.
If your getting a good delta split then it's doing all it can and other measures need to be taken. Close all shades, cover vents and shylights, seal any openings electrical and mechanical, seal underbelly, insulate if possible, camp in the shade, lastly add another a/c unit.

[njcamper]

Thanks for all your help. I guess I am a little confused because my prior camper was a 31 foot travel trailer with slide out and a 13,5K unit. Can it be that the 5th wheel ceiling height makes that much of a difference? I used to freeze with the other (1995) trailer. Im going to have to install a second unit if this new one doesn't cut it.

[D_B Travelers]

NJcamper, one of the things I did that helped tremendously was to change out the OEM analog thermostat on the main cabin AC unit to a digital. The second AC unit up front was installed with a digital thermostat standard. The main thing you will notice is the digital has a much narrower temperature range that either turns the AC on or off when needed. I found the analog unit would not turn on the AC until the cabin temp was about 7-8 degrees higher than the set temperature ; the conversely it would not turn off the unit until it was also about 7-8 degrees above set point. This meant you sat in the living room with a fan and a blanket for the AC cycles. The second AC has about a 2-3 degree swing either way and you are not uncomfortable before it kicks in or freezing before it kicks the unit off. New digital unit to replace the OEM unit was about $70 but has REALLY made a huge difference in the comfort level in the living area. With less heat building up before it turns on there is less for it to cool before turning off again. Just something you might look into.

[asquared]

Originally Posted by njcamper

Thanks for all your help. I guess I am a little confused because my prior camper was a 31 foot travel trailer with slide out and a 13,5K unit. Can it be that the 5th wheel ceiling height makes that much of a difference? I used to freeze with the other (1995) trailer. Im going to have to install a second unit if this new one doesn't cut it.

In short yes. Even though the Rockwood is just about the same length as your previous tt, it is taller giving it more area to have to cool.

[njcamper]

Will digital thermostat from Home Depot work? or are they RV only units?

[RubberNail]

I would also suggest adding reflective foil insulation at the windows. Amazon has "infraStop 24"x25' Double Bubble Reflective Foil Insulation" that works for this purpose. Also has 48" rolls, if needed. This is the same material as the "automotive folding dash windshield" insulators at Walmart, etc. Easily cut with scissors to fit the RV windows. Can use sticky back velcro if needed.
It's easy to take down when you are parked and want to see out the windows. Has made a real difference for us, especially when making a day long pull in the hot sun.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by njcamper

Will digital thermostat from Home Depot work? or are they RV only units?

Just about any battery back-up stat will work, but it has to have batteries honeywell, hunter are just a few.

[kandl]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

I agree with everything EXCEPT a delta T of 20 degrees, I have never measured a 20 degree difference.

I measured 19 and change on our 13.5K Airxcel when it was near new. TT was partly shaded and RH was below 50. Actual outside/inside temp difference was closer to 10 degrees.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by bob caldwell

Wow......your not just another pretty (?) face!

There are alot of factors that ytubes do not go into. Such as where you are taking measurements and what you are using. Most thermometers are plus or minus 3 degrees. When you measure by superheat and the conversion to the manufacture charts you can see easily. So what happens, people think there A/C is not working. Yet that's all they will do. If your not using calibrated tools you get close but really false readings. To me it's best if RVer's figure 15 degrees difference from the R/A to the supply air. Also remember that your R/A is not ducted. Measure from the floor level every 3' up the wall you see the temp change. I wish I could get a Delta T of 20 degrees coming out of my ceiling vents..... God bless America and Y tube.....

[aceinspp]

Being that you bought a 5er and only a 13500btu you are in trouble to be gin with. Most Ive bought always had the 15000,btu ac and worked well. You got to remember more slides more ac it will take to cool. I have a 35 ft tt with 3 slides and 2ac an cooling it real good. Got to remember not much insulation in these campers either all the more issues. Later RJD

[whatsupchuck]

Home Depot has the bubble wrap covered in AL on both sides for the windows in rolls. I think this was originally used to wrap water heaters but does wonders for us in south Tex. heat/sun. Still have left over right behind me.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by njcamper

Will digital thermostat from Home Depot work? or are they RV only units?

I replaced a Coleman Mach with a Honeywell RTH111B from Home Depot.

See here, Post #2:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tat-87888.html

There's also a programmable version (RTH221B) as well as several others that cost a bit more. Some have backlights.

[D_B Travelers]

I bought the same Coleman digital thermostat type as the bedroom AC had except it controls the heat also. I would recommmend sticking with the RV type so the two will be as close to dimilar as possible.

[D_B Travelers]

I would stick with an RV type that is designed as a direct replacement for the analog one. I bought a Coleman Mach via Amazon, one from HD might work but I didn't want to take a chance with something different that might leave me without AC for a weekend campout.