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Old 10-21-2012, 11:54 AM   #1
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awning tie-down?

I hope someone is reading this form at the end of October! The awning on our 2012 Windjammer is very sensitive to wind gusts, and twists away, or lifts up at the slightest breeze. Any suggestions on how to tie this down to the deck so that it won't move so easily? I am terrified of it getting all bent.
Thanks!
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:48 PM   #2
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Try some anchor points in the decking and then the traditional awning tie downs that you can get at any camping supply store.
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:13 PM   #3
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I hope someone is reading this form at the end of October! The awning on our 2012 Windjammer is very sensitive to wind gusts, and twists away, or lifts up at the slightest breeze. Any suggestions on how to tie this down to the deck so that it won't move so easily? I am terrified of it getting all bent.
Thanks!
I have some tie down poles: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...rts-26164.html
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:42 AM   #4
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I use the spiral dog tie up stakes an the ratcheting load straps. I started the the awning tie down kit but at night u dont see the rope well and it would get tripped over. Switched to some bright orange ratchet straps an now you see them. Also with the awning tie downs i had them come loose, the new straps do not
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:07 AM   #5
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I use the spiral dog tie up stakes an the ratcheting load straps. I started the the awning tie down kit but at night u dont see the rope well and it would get tripped over. Switched to some bright orange ratchet straps an now you see them. Also with the awning tie downs i had them come loose, the new straps do not
Lee,

I had thought about doing the tie down as you did but I was afraid the "pull" on the side of the camper at the awning attachment track would be more than the screws could handle.

The awning posts made by Neil (DunnNC) solved my concern by transferring that force from a direct pull on the wall to a more vertical component down into the poles.

Look carefully at the awning track for loose screws and make sure your sealant integrity is still good as it might be cracking or separating from the wall.

Herk (PS Even though more than half of the force of the tie down and wind is wicked down into the poles with Neil's design, I am still going to keep an eye on my track's integrity as well)
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:26 AM   #6
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Two benefits of using the poles are: 1. Removing the shock load on the attaching rail when the awning bangs from the wind. 2. Removing the load on the arms.
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:33 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by herk7769

Lee,

I had thought about doing the tie down as you did but I was afraid the "pull" on the side of the camper at the awning attachment track would be more than the screws could handle.

The awning posts made by Neil (DunnNC) solved my concern by transferring that force from a direct pull on the wall to a more vertical component down into the poles.

Look carefully at the awning track for loose screws and make sure your sealant integrity is still good as it might be cracking or separating from the wall.

Herk (PS Even though more than half of the force of the tie down and wind is wicked down into the poles with Neil's design, I am still going to keep an eye on my track's integrity as well)
Hey Herk, i dont really tighten them all that much and if the wind gets strong i pull it in. The ratchet straps are mainly for color so that can see them and they dont come loose

However, since your advise is always good, and honestly i have thought about that concern, i will double check them this weekend when i winterize .
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:36 AM   #8
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(3) support the weight of sun shade & wind gusts aginst it! Youroo!!
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:38 AM   #9
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I use the ratchet straps, as well, but I use a strap that runs across the top of the length of the tube, like the commercially available hold-down, then I run the ratchet strap back to the TT frame rails, parallel and next to the angled awning support poles. The angled support pole on the awning holds it up, and the ratchet straps hold it down. Additionally, if the TT rocks slightly from someone stepping in, moving around, or from high winds, the awning and the tie-downs move with the TT. Nothing is attached to the ground, so no stress on the awning fabric, the pot-metal connections on the tube, or on the screws and fasteners.

I've already winterized and covered, or I'd take a photo for you....
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:43 AM   #10
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Additionally, if the TT rocks slightly from someone stepping in, moving around, or from high winds, the awning and the tie-downs move with the TT. Nothing is attached to the ground, so no stress on the awning fabric, the pot-metal connections on the tube, or on the screws and fasteners
Hmmm, never thought of that.
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:46 AM   #11
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I use the ratchet straps, as well, but I use a strap that runs across the top of the length of the tube, like the commercially available hold-down, then I run the ratchet strap back to the TT frame rails, parallel and next to the angled awning support poles. The angled support pole on the awning holds it up, and the ratchet straps hold it down. Additionally, if the TT rocks slightly from someone stepping in, moving around, or from high winds, the awning and the tie-downs move with the TT. Nothing is attached to the ground, so no stress on the awning fabric, the pot-metal connections on the tube, or on the screws and fasteners.

I've already winterized and covered, or I'd take a photo for you....
Do you have the manual or power awning?
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:29 AM   #12
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this sounds like what I am after. How do we get a note to you in May for a pic???
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:05 AM   #13
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I hope someone is reading this form at the end of October! The awning on our 2012 Windjammer is very sensitive to wind gusts, and twists away, or lifts up at the slightest breeze. Any suggestions on how to tie this down to the deck so that it won't move so easily? I am terrified of it getting all bent.
Thanks!
Sounds like you are at a seasonal site(Deck). There are many ways to secure the awning to a deck.Remember (UP),(DOWN),and (TILT)! Youroo!!
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:06 AM   #14
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Do you have the manual or power awning?
Manual
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:07 AM   #15
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this sounds like what I am after. How do we get a note to you in May for a pic???
Just PM me on this forum. I'm usually on a few times per day....
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:13 AM   #16
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Manual
Power awnings cannot be tied down like you do, there is no strut going to the bottom of the camper. Just a flimsy adjustable strut that will bend/break very easily.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:22 AM   #17
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Power awnings cannot be tied down like you do, there is no strut going to the bottom of the camper. Just a flimsy adjustable strut that will bend/break very easily.
I don't really "pull" down tight on them, but rather just snug them to keep the wind from lifting them. Don't know from experience if it work work well with power awnings, but I have seen folks set-up that way (with power awnings) while at the NA$CAR race in Dover.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:28 AM   #18
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I don't really "pull" down tight on them, but rather just snug them to keep the wind from lifting them. Don't know from experience if it work work well with power awnings, but I have seen folks set-up that way (with power awnings) while at the NA$CAR race in Dover.
A lot of us have tried tying them down without poles and it just doesn't work especially with the adjustable arms. I even tried tying them down on my 08 Flagstaff that didn't have adjustable arms and it doesn't work on those either. The arms are just too flimsy.
Strength wise, the manual awnings are much stronger, but convenience, I'll go for the power ones especially with the poles.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:35 AM   #19
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Dog screws dont work for (Concrete,Blacktop,or very loose Sand). Youroo!!
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:51 AM   #20
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Dog screws dont work for (Concrete,Blacktop,or very loose Sand). Youroo!!
And I so wanted to use them in concrete and asphalt!

Altho I have used shortened gutter spikes in asphalt.
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