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Old 06-26-2014, 12:30 AM   #11
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Yes, it charges with the switch disconnect off.
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Old 06-26-2014, 07:12 AM   #12
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Seems like there are various wiring configurations. I just replaced the ridiculous push pull switch in mine with a rotary switch. I can assure you that mine would not charge without the switch on, nor would the breakaway switch work. If you don't know for sure how yours is wired, just switch it on every time you tow..
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Old 06-26-2014, 08:02 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Fivealive View Post
Seems like there are various wiring configurations. I just replaced the ridiculous push pull switch in mine with a rotary switch. I can assure you that mine would not charge without the switch on, nor would the breakaway switch work. If you don't know for sure how yours is wired, just switch it on every time you tow..
Or check it with a volt meter. We tow with ours on all the time to keep the fridg going and the food cold.
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Old 06-26-2014, 07:03 PM   #14
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Yes, I don't think you can depend on the wiring being the same. I just found my AC was wired wrong. No low speed mode and really acted squirrlly. I swiched the the wires around on the terminal block in the AC this morning and it works perfect now.
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Old 06-27-2014, 11:44 PM   #15
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Thanks for all the replies on this. I'm still a little confused as I have been reading several different views on this. Fivealive stated: "I can assure you that mine would not charge without the switch on, nor would the breakaway switch work." Now doesn't this go against an eariler post that said....that the Breakaway, on MOST of our campers is always live as it had a dedicated connection to the battery due to saftey concerns so that the cable does it's job in an emergency???? I'm thinking out loud here saying...why would any major manufacturer let the consumer decide to turn off/on the breakaway by pushing or pulling a battery cutoff switch???? Maybe Fivealive's statement IS correct in his case, but I don't agree with the thinking behind it...and I'm not sure I believe it. Now if the system IS wired wrong, that's a whole different problem that I was not looking for an answer originally. Remember my statement, I have and will pull with my switch "on"...we are just wondering what is NOT charging if pulling the the battery cutoff switch "Off". I was hoping this was an easy yes/no without putting a volt meter to our campers....but I understand there could be some variations among manufacturers.
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Old 06-28-2014, 12:31 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Kenv View Post
Thanks for all the replies on this. I'm still a little confused as I have been reading several different views on this. Fivealive stated: "I can assure you that mine would not charge without the switch on, nor would the breakaway switch work." Now doesn't this go against an eariler post that said....that the Breakaway, on MOST of our campers is always live as it had a dedicated connection to the battery due to saftey concerns so that the cable does it's job in an emergency???? I'm thinking out loud here saying...why would any major manufacturer let the consumer decide to turn off/on the breakaway by pushing or pulling a battery cutoff switch???? Maybe Fivealive's statement IS correct in his case, but I don't agree with the thinking behind it...and I'm not sure I believe it. Now if the system IS wired wrong, that's a whole different problem that I was not looking for an answer originally. Remember my statement, I have and will pull with my switch "on"...we are just wondering what is NOT charging if pulling the the battery cutoff switch "Off". I was hoping this was an easy yes/no without putting a volt meter to our campers....but I understand there could be some variations among manufacturers.
Regarding the emergency disconnect, In the event of a accidental disconnect, I can't imagine Forest River leaving themselves open for a law suit by having a system that can be overriden. Every TT I've had all the way back to the first one had no way of overriding the disconnect. Having said that, I have found my AC wired wrong. It had no low fan and I had to swap 3 wires they miss-wired. My next project is to check the switch on the wall that says interior lights, It only affects a couple of lights when I flip it. I suspect it's wired wrong also.

As far as charging, I'm going to verify every thing again because I'm a little confused also. As previously mentioned by someone, maybe you, check your voltage with a voltmeter connected to the battery. If it's charging you'll have more than the static voltage of about 12.7 volts.
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Old 06-28-2014, 04:21 AM   #17
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I have the same disconnect, when you turn off / push it in it will disconnect the power to your converter only. Your landing gear is wired after the switch so that to will shut off. I know this for a fact being some stuff moved on me during travel and pushed the switch in. When I got home the landing gear didn't work til I pulled that switch back to on. I put an "L" bracket in front of it so it can not happen again. Your breakaway should be wired to the pos on the battery. Your 7 pin tow plug is also wired in before the switch. If your switch is off your converter charger can not charge your battery when on 110v. You TV will be charging no matter what position your switch is in. I strongly suggest that anyone with that old car light switch that they use for a cut off that you protect it from anything that can move and push it in. The breakaway has to wired hot all the time. If yours is not I would change it. The last argument on this subject people stated the reason they use a switch like that is in case of an emergency it's easier to push it in then pull it out. That statement is wrong it will take the same amount of time to do. The switch itself is a bad design and should work just the opposite in is on out is off. At least this is what I have found. But remember this is FR and depending on who was on line that day yours could be different. That is why you can not get a wiring diagram from FR. I tried and that is what I was told buy FR themselves at the factory level not dealer.
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:52 AM   #18
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I don't like unprotected wires coming directly from the battery. I do many preflight safety tasks and turning on the switch is no big deal. I really don't like having a push pull switch that can be turned off by something sliding into it.. Should be rotary.
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:34 PM   #19
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I agree Fivealive, the switch should be a rotary or better design. Why I first saw mine, I thought..."What year are we in" this thing looks like it is from a 77 Winnebago......lol Have a good one.
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Old 07-18-2014, 11:06 AM   #20
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Coming from an industrial background, I can tell you that emergency stop buttons (big red mushroom looking buttons) are all push to stop.


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