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Old 01-27-2014, 08:47 AM   #1
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best and easiest way to winterize the 8289

Brought the unit in for a few issues, and they discovered a BUSTED filter housing,,,well damned !!! I usually open the hot water tank and drain it, let the water out on the low point valves, and put some anti freeze in the pee traps,,,,didn't even now there was a filter in there..kind of half arsed place to put it,,, how would y'all recommend preparing for freeze??? I hung a 60 watt light in the compartment, and rigged it to a temperature sensitive thermostat so the light goes on at 36 degrees,,plug is on the opposite side,,,,comments??suggestions?? HELP !! don't want to replace that sucker again,,,,
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:19 AM   #2
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After having one break, i just take it off. Mine. Came with a large wrench to unscrew it.
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Old 01-28-2014, 02:26 PM   #3
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60W light bulb is a great idea. I may go do that right now.

I do wonder why there is not a light on that side of the compartment. It makes it difficult to service the water filter in the evening.
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Old 01-28-2014, 02:32 PM   #4
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BTW, I used compressed air to winterize my 8289. Open the drain valves, drain the water heater, open and remove the water filter, blow air in the main water inlet, open all water valves in the unit until they blow air, (don't forget he outside shower), drain the fresh water tank, pour antifreeze down all the drains and into the toilet. I also disconnect the water pump outlet line and briefly turn on the pump to discharge water that might be in the pump.

Seems to work okay. This year will be a test as we have had some very cold temps for this area.
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Old 02-02-2014, 09:23 AM   #5
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Ditto with 5er tom. The only additional thing I do is bypass the water heater before blowing out the lines.
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Old 02-12-2014, 07:55 AM   #6
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Same as all of the above. The water filter was a huge pain in the ???, and caused no end of problems taking the thing off and on each time we winterized, so we took it off completely. MUCH easier to blow out the lines with out it. We use an external water filter now.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:12 AM   #7
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I also do the compressed air method. Fast and have done it a few years without any issue.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:52 AM   #8
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I remove the cap from the fresh water tank and pull the anode from the hot water tank. I open all the faucets and low point drains, connect my air compressor to the fresh water inlet and let it run. While it's running I go inside and flush the stool. Then I pour a small amount of RV anti freeze into each trap. I'm done
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:21 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comfun1 View Post
I remove the cap from the fresh water tank and pull the anode from the hot water tank. I open all the faucets and low point drains, connect my air compressor to the fresh water inlet and let it run. While it's running I go inside and flush the stool. Then I pour a small amount of RV anti freeze into each trap. I'm done
Why do you remove the Cap from the (Fresh water Tank)? Youroo!!
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comfun1 View Post
I remove the cap from the fresh water tank and pull the anode from the hot water tank. I open all the faucets and low point drains, connect my air compressor to the fresh water inlet and let it run. While it's running I go inside and flush the stool. Then I pour a small amount of RV anti freeze into each trap. I'm done
I am new to winterizing a trailer and dealer did mine just as you did. Now that spring is coming (I hope) what needs to be done to clean out the pink stuff and ready the water systems for use? I know I need to get a 1 1/16" socket to put the anode back in but not sure of exactly what to do in what order.
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