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Old 11-10-2014, 08:48 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by rattleNsmoke View Post
If you're having issues with it, others have cut the pex and installed two 90's and a small pex section effectively eliminating the valve altogether. That might be able to be done down low where the pex lines are accessible. Personally, I would go that route instead of tearing my shower off the wall. Just my .02

Sorry; do not follow this advice.

You will siphon black water out of the tank when traveling down the road (due to Venturi Effect) and you can get black water bacteria into the fresh water source due to mixing of the incoming water and the water in the black tank. This can happen due to pressure fluctuations in the source and pressure changes when starting and stopping the water flow.

The backflow preventer/Vacuum Break is required and can be relocated but NOT eliminated.

(Perhaps you were thinking of the water FILTER, which can be eliminated as you describe).

You can get some that are pretty pricey (http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A10-3...7Q99QAQXSXW2WD), but here is one that is reasonable:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...4Y37MQBDT9AFAG
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Old 11-10-2014, 08:57 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by youroo View Post
I don't know how (YOU) hook up your (Black Tank Rinse) but most have a (Garden Hose Fitting) that people hook up a (Fresh Water Hose ) I would call this (Connected)! I also have a Very good Idea who has Not a Clue! Youroo!!
Youroo it's looks like you, you got one HA, Spam up to $3.35 a can
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:05 AM   #23
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Help me out here...

I've been here for over 3 years now, and have monitored this forum pretty closely. I'm a little confused about all the sudden interest and/or concern over black tank flush anti-siphon valves. I have seen very little on this until this past month. Is there something which every TT and 5'er owner needs to do that we've all not been doing, either in normal operation or winterization, which someone here can state simply for the benefit of those who may be scratching their heads reading all of these posts (even if "those" is only me!)? I'm afraid I may be missing the point.
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:07 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
Sorry; do not follow this advice.

You will siphon black water out of the tank when traveling down the road (due to Venturi Effect) and you can get black water bacteria into the fresh water source due to mixing of the incoming water and the water in the black tank. This can happen due to pressure fluctuations in the source and pressure changes when starting and stopping the water flow.

The backflow preventer/Vacuum Break is required and can be relocated but NOT eliminated.

(Perhaps you were thinking of the water FILTER, which can be eliminated as you describe).

You can get some that are pretty pricey (Amazon.com: Valterra A10-3050 Check Valve Vacuum Breaker 1/2 Inch MPT RV Parts: Automotive), but here is one that is reasonable:

Amazon.com: San-T-Flush Plastic Vacuum Breaker (PCKV101): Automotive
Herk why can't you just add a 1/2" back flow preventer?
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:22 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
Herk why can't you just add a 1/2" back flow preventer?
You can; BUT ---

Vacuum breaks are normally used in this application (AND dishwasher discharge lines for the same reason) to create an air path into the black tank should there be a negative (suction) pressure during the dump cycle.

Without the vacuum break (ie using a check valve like some cheap after market "turbo flushers" include), the dump negative pressure can "flutter" the check valve (ever watch the water flow at the dump outlet using a clear elbow?) potentially allowing bacteria on the dirty side of the valve to enter the fresh (campground side) water source.

Backflow preventers are "inline" and Vacuum breaks are always an "elbow" with a hat.

ALSO note that the inline backflow preventer dumps its pressure through the outlet holes! If this is INSIDE your camper there will be water everywhere.

(NOTE: NOT a plumber; but this is how I understand it.)
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:50 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
You can; BUT ---

Vacuum breaks are normally used in this application (AND dishwasher discharge lines for the same reason) to create an air path into the black tank should there be a negative (suction) pressure during the dump cycle.

Without the vacuum break (ie using a check valve like some cheap after market "turbo flushers" include), the dump negative pressure can "flutter" the check valve (ever watch the water flow at the dump outlet using a clear elbow?) potentially allowing bacteria on the dirty side of the valve to enter the fresh (campground side) water source.

Backflow preventers are "inline" and Vacuum breaks are always an "elbow" with a hat.

ALSO note that the inline backflow preventer dumps its pressure through the outlet holes! If this is INSIDE your camper there will be water everywhere.

(NOTE: NOT a plumber; but this is how I understand it.)
I do understand what you are saying but that is not the one I meant. I mean a brass blackflow preventer, the same as the VDH requires on a water line from the town water supply, so my well water can not enter the city system if I use the well water instead of town water. There really is no vacuum that can happen when in use being that the dump valve is open. When not using it the back flow preventer would stop anything entering the line before it. I hope I'm explaining this correctly. My fresh water inlet and my BTF are two different lines, it would still stop any black flow to your hose that you are using to do the flush. I hope it makes sense to you, my explanation. Your pictures shows faucet back flow preventers not in line. It would be hard to over come the PSI at a camp ground to contaminate the CG water system.
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:03 AM   #27
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Just cut the lines to the one you can't get to, splice in new lines and put the new one where you can get to it. Problem solved.
It is not rocket science.
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:09 AM   #28
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Just cut the lines to the one you can't get to, splice in new lines and put the new one where you can get to it. Problem solved.
It is not rocket science.
No it is not but without changing my whole system it can not be done where FR installed mine. The only safe feature is that it is in between the wall and shower but impossible to get to with out me putting in a access panel in my bedroom wall, and my wife's not going for that or removing a shower which then would leak. I do understand this is not rocket science. But I do care about my environment.
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:10 AM   #29
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Herk, This is what I'm talking about if I had to do it.
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:12 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
pictures shows faucet back flow preventers not in line.
They do not. Both "hat" photos are of RV turbo-flush vacuum breaks.
The black one is MY vacuum break under my vanity.
The clear one actually shows the "guts" of the double internal check valves.

The two brass ones are the inline check valves you refer to and contain a plastic valve.

Your PDF is similar to the brass ones noted; they just have NPT threads instead of hose fitting threads.
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