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Old 11-10-2014, 10:49 AM   #31
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FYI in a TRACER 3150 BHS it is under the kitchen sink way in the coner next to the right side of the hotwater heater.

Question????

Can I take it out and just add the garden hose type where I connect my GREEN use only for black tank flush and flush king water hose?
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Old 11-10-2014, 11:01 AM   #32
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They do not. Both "hat" photos are of RV turbo-flush vacuum breaks.
The black one is MY vacuum break under my vanity.
The clear one actually shows the "guts" of the double internal check valves.

The two brass ones are the inline check valves you refer to and contain a plastic valve.

Your PDF is similar to the brass ones noted; they just have NPT threads instead of hose fitting threads.
Yes but the two brass you show would leak, that is there purpose. So they are not an option. The one I showed has a stainless steel spring with a brass flapper and will not leak like a hose bib that you showed. That go's on a hose bib only not in a enclosed wall. You really do not need a vacuum valve. When you open your valve there can't be a vacuum also the tank has a vent pipe to stop that also. Dumb, Dumb of FR. If it is required by the health dept code they should have installed brass. Just IMO.
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Old 11-10-2014, 11:25 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by kwjeepxj View Post
Can I take it out and just add the garden hose type where I connect my GREEN use only for black tank flush and flush king water hose?
I would not. You would need to leave it in place at all times to prevent a siphon of your black water as you drive down the road.

Is it needs replacement; replace with the correct part.

If failure is a problem like the location in the wall of the shower (yea, it is in a bad spot for sure), I would buy the correct (but brass) part.

Amazon.com: San-T-Flush Brass Vacuum Breaker Assembly (UV101): Automotive
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:54 PM   #34
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Mine is located under the bathroom sink and can just barely be reached. It has only leaked a couple times in the last year while dumping the black tank and using the tank wash. I assume it did it's job and was due to a vacuum being created due to whatever combination of variables occurred at that time. The amount of water was minor and easily noticed while dumping. I'm not positive of the sequence that caused the leak but it may have been that I turned the wash on too early while the tank outlet was flowing full thereby creating the vacuum.
It sure is in a bad location though, but I assume it needs to be located higher than the toilet. If I ever have to replace it, I will just cut both lines where they turn vertical and splice them back after replacing the valve.
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Old 11-23-2014, 02:14 PM   #35
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Mine is located under the bathroom sink and can just barely be reached. It has only leaked a couple times in the last year while dumping the black tank and using the tank wash. I assume it did it's job and was due to a vacuum being created due to whatever combination of variables occurred at that time. The amount of water was minor and easily noticed while dumping. I'm not positive of the sequence that caused the leak but it may have been that I turned the wash on too early while the tank outlet was flowing full thereby creating the vacuum.
It sure is in a bad location though, but I assume it needs to be located higher than the toilet. If I ever have to replace it, I will just cut both lines where they turn vertical and splice them back after replacing the valve.
What I still do not understand is that there is a vent tube and your dump valve is open. How can it cause a vacuum? If your dump valve was closed during travel even then how can you pull a vacuum with the vent pipe to the tank unless it was plugged.... It is impossible to pull a vacuum with a vent pipe. The spray nozzle's are so small how can it even return to that line that the loop is above the toilet. That is also why washing machine drains are higher then the outlet. There is also a warning stating do not run the BWF with the valve closed. I guess by code they have to install it.
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Old 11-23-2014, 02:59 PM   #36
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Same reason there are vacuum breakers on lavatory and sink drains in houses. Keeps from syphoning the P traps dry. Most lavatories and tubs have what are mistakenly called overflows but are actually vacuum breakers.
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Old 11-24-2014, 08:12 AM   #37
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I think OC has the right approach when using the word "siphoning". However; siphoning ( I believe) requires that one end be submerged and a differential pressure applied to the other end to get started. My cleanout sprayer is at the top of my black tank and is never below water level and the input side of the cleanout is enclosed behind a cargo hatch where there is no airflow across it while traveling. Additionally, my backflow plumbing has a 5 foot rise above the tank. I think "code" is the optimal word here. JMO.
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