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10-19-2015, 09:58 AM
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#1
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,024
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Blow-out Winterizing
For the first time, I'm going to try the blow-out method of winterizing this year. I bought a 3-gallon oilless compressor at Harbor Freight and a female input air adoptor that I'll use both on the water heater and city water inlet valves. (I do, still, have to pick up a ball tire inflator with a clip so it's not a 2-man job.)
This is the plan:
-Drain water heater, fresh water tank, and the two hot/cold drains. Reseal everything except water heater.
-Connect compressor (set to 40 PSI) to water heater drain and blow out outside shower, kitchen and bathroom faucets, inside shower, and toilet.
-Disconnect and seal water heater (turn valves so it's in bypass mode) and connect to fresh water input and blow out everything, again.
-Turn on water pump and run a faucet until it's dry.
-Redrain water heater, fresh water tank, and two low point drains.
-Pour pink antifreeze into all drains.
-After parking in the RV lot, redrain it all and pour a few inches of red stuff into the toilet. (I usually leave the drain inside the water heater but it's lose and I'll losen/tighten it when I visit in the winter to prevent rust taking over....I'll probably put in a new one in the spring as it's getting worn.)
Did I miss anything? (I also put covers on my tires and AC and have covers that go over my big awning and the slide out awning.)
__________________
Rick & Karen
(Retired USAF, MSgt)
Monument, Colorado
8-year Travel Trailer RVers
2013 Forest River Rockwood Ultra-Lite 2904SS
2014 Toyota Tundra Maxcrew SR-5 TRD 4x4 (with Firestone airbags in the rear)
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10-19-2015, 10:13 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Dont Blow out your system thru the W/H drain port,you are going to move a LOT of Crud into the lines! Youroo!!
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10-19-2015, 10:13 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Nanaimo
Posts: 487
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A word of Caution....
Just be sure there is NO Pressure applied "before" you remove the Hot Water Tank Anode or drain plug. >it will shoot out-a-there like a rocket< if there is any pressure.
Relive any pressure by opening a hot water faucet valve first to be safe.
hope this helps
__________________
'07 WildCat 30 RLBS ~ West Coast Edition ~ Trail Air - Tri Glide Pin Box 2000 F350 Lariat DRW 4x4 7.3 Diesel 89k miles Edge programmer, 4" SS exhaust turbo/back, Tru-Cool Max Trans Cooler, Bilstein Shocks Vancouver Island, B.C., Canada
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10-19-2015, 10:20 AM
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#4
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo
Dont Blow out your system thru the W/H drain port,you are going to move a LOT of Crud into the lines! Youroo!!
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Oh I didn't think of that....so just blowing via the fresh water input is sufficient?
I'm worried about water getting left in the water heater cutoff pipes so will open/close each one with the water heater drain open to ensure they are dry.
__________________
Rick & Karen
(Retired USAF, MSgt)
Monument, Colorado
8-year Travel Trailer RVers
2013 Forest River Rockwood Ultra-Lite 2904SS
2014 Toyota Tundra Maxcrew SR-5 TRD 4x4 (with Firestone airbags in the rear)
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10-19-2015, 10:22 AM
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#5
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islander
A word of Caution....
Just be sure there is NO Pressure applied "before" you remove the Hot Water Tank Anode or drain plug. >it will shoot out-a-there like a rocket< if there is any pressure.
Relive any pressure by opening a hot water faucet valve first to be safe.
hope this helps
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Good point...I've drained the water heater while it was, still, pressurized and got baptized more than once!
__________________
Rick & Karen
(Retired USAF, MSgt)
Monument, Colorado
8-year Travel Trailer RVers
2013 Forest River Rockwood Ultra-Lite 2904SS
2014 Toyota Tundra Maxcrew SR-5 TRD 4x4 (with Firestone airbags in the rear)
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10-19-2015, 10:31 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoRick
Oh I didn't think of that....so just blowing via the fresh water input is sufficient?
I'm worried about water getting left in the water heater cutoff pipes so will open/close each one with the water heater drain open to ensure they are dry.
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I didnt say that blowing thru the City water input was sufficient,I do know that going thru the proper procedure of draining THEN pumping RV Antifreeze in the system will protect a RV from freezing,I doubt that just blowing the system has a 100% Guarantee! Run a Search at the Top,days of reading! Youroo!!
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10-19-2015, 12:57 PM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,024
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Yes, I will suck the red stuff in as the last step before heading out to park her. It got -20 below here last winter.
__________________
Rick & Karen
(Retired USAF, MSgt)
Monument, Colorado
8-year Travel Trailer RVers
2013 Forest River Rockwood Ultra-Lite 2904SS
2014 Toyota Tundra Maxcrew SR-5 TRD 4x4 (with Firestone airbags in the rear)
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10-19-2015, 01:33 PM
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#8
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,149
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Rick,
As youroo said, don't blow back through the water heater drain. That's asking for trouble. Connecting your air pressure to the city inlet is all you need.
As for your concern about the WH inlet/outlet lines... I always blow a small amount of air through the lines BEFORE I bypass (but after removing the tank drain) to take care of any small residual amount of water that could possibly be in the short lines to the tank. It's probably not likely much would be in there (and some plumbing configurations allow for gravity to empty them) but if it gives peace of mind, it really only takes a second of time before turning the bypass valves.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2024 Ford F-Series SCREW•7.3L•4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=90
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10-19-2015, 08:08 PM
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,024
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Thanks, I got her done today as we have 30's at night rapidly approaching.
I did make a mod, though. Last year, the red stuff just wouldn't suck through the outlet on the trailer and it was doing it, again. So I got my pipe cutter and cut the hose near the water pump then attached about 2 feet of clear hose to that and it worked like a champ...used just less than 2 gallons.
When driving out of the RV lot, I noticed about half of them had their stabilizers down...do y'all put yours down and why? (One even had his x-chalks on it, strange)
__________________
Rick & Karen
(Retired USAF, MSgt)
Monument, Colorado
8-year Travel Trailer RVers
2013 Forest River Rockwood Ultra-Lite 2904SS
2014 Toyota Tundra Maxcrew SR-5 TRD 4x4 (with Firestone airbags in the rear)
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10-19-2015, 09:54 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Ontario
Posts: 521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islander
A word of Caution....
Just be sure there is NO Pressure applied "before" you remove the Hot Water Tank Anode or drain plug. >it will shoot out-a-there like a rocket< if there is any pressure.
Relive any pressure by opening a hot water faucet valve first to be safe.
hope this helps
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I made that mistake ONCE. Luckily no injuries but it left me soaking wet and covered in white crud.
__________________
Orval and Yvonne
2016 Flagstaff 27RLWS Emerald Package
2011 F150 SCrew XTR 5.0L 4x4
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10-20-2015, 06:29 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Central Indiana
Posts: 360
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If you are concerned about or maybe don't trust (or maybe prone to forget to adjust) the air regulator on your compressor, install your water pressure regulator between the blow-out adapter and city water inlet. It will keep you at a safe pressure for the plumbing system.
__________________
Brian, Stacy, and the kids
2011 F-250 CCSB 6.7L PSD 4WD
2013 Palomino Solaire 269BHDSK
ProPride Hitch
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10-20-2015, 06:58 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 70
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Water Blowout
I'd be interested to know how this worked out. I have the 3 gallon HF compressor, but I would not have thought it would have enough CFM for this application. I also have a 6 gallon Craftsman that I use for blow out. I've used this method for 3 years, with no freezing problems, but this isn't Canada.
__________________
2010 Rockwood 8280WS Fifth Wheel
2013 F350 Crew Cab SRW, Standard Bed PS Diesel
Reese Airborne Pin Box, Reese 16K Manual Slider.
Camped 36 Days in 2012, 23 Days in 2013, 35 Days in 2014, 30 Days in 2015, 46 Days in 2016, 5 days in 2017.
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10-21-2015, 12:43 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Elkton, MD
Posts: 280
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I blew mine out this year and am not using the AF in the water supply lines. The way I understand it, damage to the lines can only occur if the lines/check valves are filled with water and with the expansion of the water freezing. I blew mine out until there no or almost no sputtering at all the faucets, showers and the toilet. It seems to me that after doing this, the AF isn't needed. Am I missing something?
I've read several posts where the lines are blown out and then the AF is put in after the fact. This seems redundant to me. The AF would replace the water in the lines when it was pumped in wouldn't it?
__________________
Jack and Jan
Nights camped 2014 - 8 | Nights camped 2015 - 23 | Nights camped 2016 - 24
2015 Ford Super Duty F350 > Blue Ox Swaypro WD Hitch > 2015 Rockwood Windjammer 3008W
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10-21-2015, 01:26 PM
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#14
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Who Dares, Wins
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Chester County, PA
Posts: 7,063
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Yes and no. AF should not be deluted. So I, if using AF, would blow out the lines then use the AF. This way there is nothing but pure AF in the lines.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
__________________
Pat, Jen, Heather & Sapphire, the head mouser.
2015 Chevy HD D-Max
2022 Impression 315MB
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10-21-2015, 01:37 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 10,833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo
I didnt say that blowing thru the City water input was sufficient,I do know that going thru the proper procedure of draining THEN pumping RV Antifreeze in the system will protect a RV from freezing,I doubt that just blowing the system has a 100% Guarantee! Run a Search at the Top,days of reading! Youroo!!
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I just have the pump on and press the check valve. The spray of red stuff indicates we are a-ok.
__________________
B and B
2022 Venture RV SportTrek STT 302 VRB Travel Trailer
2018 Heartland Landmark 365 Louisville 5th Wheel
2015 Heartland Bighorn 5th Wheel
2013 FR Rockwood 8289WS 5th Wheel
2012 FR Rockwood 2703 SS Travel Trailer
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10-21-2015, 01:40 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 10,833
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As far as the water heater valves once the system is winterized I open the HW bypass and let come antifreeze clear the valve of water.
Make sure if you have a toilet spray that gets winterized same as the outside shower.
__________________
B and B
2022 Venture RV SportTrek STT 302 VRB Travel Trailer
2018 Heartland Landmark 365 Louisville 5th Wheel
2015 Heartland Bighorn 5th Wheel
2013 FR Rockwood 8289WS 5th Wheel
2012 FR Rockwood 2703 SS Travel Trailer
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10-21-2015, 01:50 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeInRaleigh
I'd be interested to know how this worked out. I have the 3 gallon HF compressor, but I would not have thought it would have enough CFM for this application. I also have a 6 gallon Craftsman that I use for blow out. I've used this method for 3 years, with no freezing problems, but this isn't Canada.
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I AM in Canada and have done this for 10 yrs, no issues.
__________________
Stefan
2014 - Sabre 36 QBOK
Nights camped 2014 - 38
Nights camped 2015 - 46
Nights camped 2016 - 43
Nights camped 2017 - 2
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10-21-2015, 03:29 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Elkton, MD
Posts: 280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doc73
Yes and no. AF should not be deluted. So I, if using AF, would blow out the lines then use the AF. This way there is nothing but pure AF in the lines.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
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If the lines are free of water, what is in there that will freeze and cause the lines to be damaged?
__________________
Jack and Jan
Nights camped 2014 - 8 | Nights camped 2015 - 23 | Nights camped 2016 - 24
2015 Ford Super Duty F350 > Blue Ox Swaypro WD Hitch > 2015 Rockwood Windjammer 3008W
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10-21-2015, 03:50 PM
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#19
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strat56
If the lines are free of water, what is in there that will freeze and cause the lines to be damaged?
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AF is a redundancy. But for the minuscule amount of time, effort and money it takes to do it, I figure why not?
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10-21-2015, 04:05 PM
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#20
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Who Dares, Wins
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Chester County, PA
Posts: 7,063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strat56
If the lines are free of water, what is in there that will freeze and cause the lines to be damaged?
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The fact is that there may still be water in the lines... The AF will not just push out all the water. It will most likely just blend with it. Could be 55% AF and be fine or 55% water and freeze.. Or it may be 90% AF and no worries... I have no idea HOW pure it NEEDS to be to work... I just know they say no diluting. It is your gamble. I would take the ten extra minutes and just blow it all out.
__________________
Pat, Jen, Heather & Sapphire, the head mouser.
2015 Chevy HD D-Max
2022 Impression 315MB
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