???? Blue Light

[Dutchtexan]

Put your cell phone in the fridge with the camera recording and see what happens.

[heavyodie]

Just received via UPS my replacement light from Dometic. No forked tongue afterall as it came in 6 weeks as they had originally told me. Thanks Dometic!

[aceinspp]

Ok got mine also. Now the question is it is slightly different than the one I took out. My question is there looks like a white square thermal fuse. Does this need to go on the new board as it does not have one? Also some additional components are on the new board. Later RJD

[DaveSchwartz]

I can't help - mine was absolutely identical. Maybe some pictures?

[aceinspp]

Ok here are the two boards. Board on right old board on left new. Later RJD

[Dutchtexan]

Originally Posted by aceinspp

Ok got mine also. Now the question is it is slightly different than the one I took out. My question is there looks like a white square thermal fuse. Does this need to go on the new board as it does not have one? Also some additional components are on the new board. Later RJD

I received mine the other day and had the exact same questions, but after emailing HEAVYODIE on this forum he said he did not change the white thermal part and just plugged it in and it worked. So i tried mine last night without changing anything and it worked fine. Just plug in the new one and you are done.

[Dutchtexan]

My 2 boards looked just like the ones in your photo, just plug in the new board and you are good to go........

[aceinspp]

Ok thanks. Any issues as to the operation of the frig after installing? Later. RJD

[Dutchtexan]

Not so far, but I only installed it, turned it on to see that it was operating properly and then shut it off.

[DaveSchwartz]

They must have figured out a way to cost-reduce that part. My replacement last summer still had it (I just checked).

It was actually a ceramic power resistor (markings on mine show it as 10 watt, 18 ohms). I never really understood why they'd want to add 10 watts of heat inside a refrigerator. Such a resistor is expensive and had to be hand-soldered so they probably found a way to replace it with some other surface mount parts that could be installed by robot or remove it altogether.

[aceinspp]

Thanks all for your help. Will install as it came. One thing tho Domectic sure does not like to furnish tech support to individuals. They want to charge you for help with the install. Well I got one over on them for now. Going to see how long it takes them to figure out they screwed up when they shipped mine. Later RJD

[aceinspp]

Ok installed and turn on frig lets see If I blow it up. White lights work tho Later RJD

[HIDE OUT]

Got my new free white light today in the mail so I guess they are still sending them out free of charge. Mine also didn't have that white thing on the new board and I installed it and everything is working fine. Much better then the blue .It took a little over three weeks on back order

[radarman]

The large white item on the old board is a wire-wound resistor used to reduce the 12VDC to approx. 6VDC for the original blue-LED circuit board. The new circuit board and white LEDs evidently will run on 12VDC, so that is the difference. The new board should work fine.
Note: If you install a Fridge-Fix fan unit for the inside of this fridge, tap the 12VDC for the fan kit off the RED wire coming from the frame INTO the circuit board, not the one leaving it for the door switch. This wire is 12VDC always and is the wire you need to tap into in order for the fan kit to work even when the door is closed. The Fridge-Fix unit is so quiet, you can't hear it with the door closed. After 15 days of the frig. working in 95 degree heat, the freezer held at 2 degrees and the frig. at 40 deg. with the Fridge-Fix unit installed.

Love the blue LEDs. Ha

[Wayne Joan]

I got my white light kit form Dometic but, I can't get the screws out of the blue light. What kind of a screw are they? I tried every screw driver head that I have and couldn't move the screws.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by Wayne Joan

I got my white light kit form Dometic but, I can't get the screws out of the blue light. What kind of a screw are they? I tried every screw driver head that I have and couldn't move the screws.

Post a picture of the head.

[Wayne Joan]

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

Post a picture of the head.

I was hoping someone who had changed theirs would tell what kind of screw head it is. I can't get my old stiff neck under there to see. Will try to take a picture later. My other thought is to, wait until Goshen next year and let Dometic fix it.

[HIDE OUT]

Small Philips head I believe

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by Wayne Joan

I was hoping someone who had changed theirs would tell what kind of screw head it is. I can't get my old stiff neck under there to see. Will try to take a picture later. My other thought is to, wait until Goshen next year and let Dometic fix it.

I understand the stiff neck real well.

I have taken to using my phone cam set so I can see the target on the screen.

[DaveSchwartz]

Originally Posted by radarman

The large white item on the old board is a wire-wound resistor used to reduce the 12VDC to approx. 6VDC for the original blue-LED circuit board. The new circuit board and white LEDs evidently will run on 12VDC, so that is the difference.

Sorry, the wire-wound resistor is shown as 'LAC Heater' (part U) on the DMR702 wiring diagram. Manuals on the Dometic site define it as 'The automatic Low Ambient Control (LAC) ensures troublefree operation in low ambient temperatures (e.g below 50° F)' and 'The refrigerator is equipped with an automatic Low Ambient Control (LAC) function which guarantees the correct temperature in the freezer even at low ambient temperatures'. It is connected only to +12V on both connectors and LAC on CN2 (reinforcing its LAC-ness). The dropping resistors are the two 150ohm SMT parts R2 and R3 below CN2 - one for each 3-LED leg (150 ohms is exactly the resistance of a dropping resistor required for 3 super-bright blue LEDs in series running from 12 volts).

As for the screws, there are two Phillips screws up in the wells between the pairs of LEDs towards the corners along the front edge.