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Old 08-18-2015, 03:52 PM   #31
Georgia Frog Rally 2018
 
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Thanks all for your help. Will install as it came. One thing tho Domectic sure does not like to furnish tech support to individuals. They want to charge you for help with the install. Well I got one over on them for now. Going to see how long it takes them to figure out they screwed up when they shipped mine. Later RJD
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Old 08-18-2015, 04:35 PM   #32
Georgia Frog Rally 2018
 
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Ok installed and turn on frig lets see If I blow it up. White lights work tho Later RJD
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:57 PM   #33
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Got my new free white light today in the mail so I guess they are still sending them out free of charge. Mine also didn't have that white thing on the new board and I installed it and everything is working fine. Much better then the blue .It took a little over three weeks on back order
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Old 09-19-2015, 03:44 PM   #34
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The large white item on the old board is a wire-wound resistor used to reduce the 12VDC to approx. 6VDC for the original blue-LED circuit board. The new circuit board and white LEDs evidently will run on 12VDC, so that is the difference. The new board should work fine.
Note: If you install a Fridge-Fix fan unit for the inside of this fridge, tap the 12VDC for the fan kit off the RED wire coming from the frame INTO the circuit board, not the one leaving it for the door switch. This wire is 12VDC always and is the wire you need to tap into in order for the fan kit to work even when the door is closed. The Fridge-Fix unit is so quiet, you can't hear it with the door closed. After 15 days of the frig. working in 95 degree heat, the freezer held at 2 degrees and the frig. at 40 deg. with the Fridge-Fix unit installed.

Love the blue LEDs. Ha
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Old 09-19-2015, 03:50 PM   #35
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I got my white light kit form Dometic but, I can't get the screws out of the blue light. What kind of a screw are they? I tried every screw driver head that I have and couldn't move the screws.
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Old 09-19-2015, 04:04 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Joan View Post
I got my white light kit form Dometic but, I can't get the screws out of the blue light. What kind of a screw are they? I tried every screw driver head that I have and couldn't move the screws.
Post a picture of the head.
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Old 09-19-2015, 06:06 PM   #37
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Post a picture of the head.

I was hoping someone who had changed theirs would tell what kind of screw head it is. I can't get my old stiff neck under there to see. Will try to take a picture later. My other thought is to, wait until Goshen next year and let Dometic fix it.
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:22 PM   #38
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Small Philips head I believe
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Old 09-20-2015, 06:22 AM   #39
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I was hoping someone who had changed theirs would tell what kind of screw head it is. I can't get my old stiff neck under there to see. Will try to take a picture later. My other thought is to, wait until Goshen next year and let Dometic fix it.
I understand the stiff neck real well.

I have taken to using my phone cam set so I can see the target on the screen.
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Old 09-20-2015, 01:33 PM   #40
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The large white item on the old board is a wire-wound resistor used to reduce the 12VDC to approx. 6VDC for the original blue-LED circuit board. The new circuit board and white LEDs evidently will run on 12VDC, so that is the difference.
Sorry, the wire-wound resistor is shown as 'LAC Heater' (part U) on the DMR702 wiring diagram. Manuals on the Dometic site define it as 'The automatic Low Ambient Control (LAC) ensures troublefree operation in low ambient temperatures (e.g below 50° F)' and 'The refrigerator is equipped with an automatic Low Ambient Control (LAC) function which guarantees the correct temperature in the freezer even at low ambient temperatures'. It is connected only to +12V on both connectors and LAC on CN2 (reinforcing its LAC-ness). The dropping resistors are the two 150ohm SMT parts R2 and R3 below CN2 - one for each 3-LED leg (150 ohms is exactly the resistance of a dropping resistor required for 3 super-bright blue LEDs in series running from 12 volts).

As for the screws, there are two Phillips screws up in the wells between the pairs of LEDs towards the corners along the front edge.
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